Wildman

Yes, Spencer is the man Jeepstickers.com ME bad, he is wating for me to sent him some samples that I picked up as old/new stock, and some measurements to start making New Pioneer side decals, might also make some Sportruck decals. But, he want to know about the demand for side decals, if it's worth the time and set-up to make them for just a couple, or there is going to be a good run on them. The tail gate decals started out good, then fizzled. Plus, he has a "day job" doing commerical printing, which is his bread and butter, and the jeep stickers is his "Fun" projects. So give it some time, and we will all wait and see what Spencer comes up with ;)

Ah.....there is an old saying in the construction field - "Two Weeks" I'm sure you heard this, and if you want to find the source, look up the movie "Money Pit" and that will explain every thing. :popcorn:

Well....some one pointed me it that direction, I posted the site last week, and several have had problems with parts, like JohnQ on the cargo light. So, Yesterday, I called them, and found out that every part that they listed on the web site for the MJ comanche is "dis-continued" I asked about the box side panel....." Ah, man, their dis-continued" wheel flairs?...."Man. that don't exist, try a junk yard" Any parts at all for the MJ?...."Man, that all out of date, try a junk yard" Why do you have the web site up?....."Man, I don't know" Yea, very helpful sale rep, I'm thinking that he owns a junk yard :roll: So, for us parts minded people that are looking for any type of MJ part, I guest that just leaves us to the junk yards, and - http://www.car-part.com/ Guest it's time to clean out some bookmarks

Nice!! Nice!! Nice!!!!:drool: You got to tell me......there is no way that MJ came from NY ;) And good to see you around again. Some Pioneer decals are in the works with the sticker guy.....Just wait.

True point about the brake tools, I've said this to my self every time I work on brakes, One of these days I'll get the right tools :roll: ( and Yea, I talk to my self, because no one will listen to me) I like to use 10" vice grips for pulling the springs, less of a chance for them slipping off. Good point!!!, I won't tell you about an old friend, 20 years ago, that was using a screwdriver to pull the springs and where it ended up. He turn out OK after some time of healing.

What did you get sore muscles from.....it's not that hard of work :roll: I'm not trying to talk you into anything, but you stated the real reason..."I should cause I'm in there" I can under stand you putting it back togetter, but the plan would be to take it all apart, do all of the repairs, and put it back togetter for the final time when done. Ah....Yea....it's a Jeep thing, and Now you Understand ;) Ok...Now I understand, about what was parked. Well....It's not that type of Dulley, It's my DD, That thing on the far left- Oh....and part of the fleet as of mid Febuary :brows: It sounds like your on your way to getting this problem fixed :thumbsup:

A parking brake cable is bad when it will not slide/pull easy they corrode on the inside of the outer sleve, there trash, cheap replacement, and you seen the right side not move, it's replacement time, the lever arm NEEDS to be in the rear position, when the cable pulls the lever, it only moves about a inch or less to apply the parking brake. On my E350, the right side wheel cable had hung up, I didn't know, just driving around and I was having problems with the rear brakes, I pulled the dulleys (fun job) and popped the drum, and ended up replacing the drum at $80, and the shoes on both side, and notice the wheel cyl on the left was leaking, one that I replace 3 months earlyer new, got a new wheel cyl free, but no labor, and had to redo everything. So new wheel cyl's go bad, cables hang up and cause more costly problems, and when I did the rear brakes 3 months earlyer, the cables were working as they should be. And this is on about 6k miles. The rule of thumb is to replace both wheel cyl's at the same time, same as the shoes, it's not a good idea to only replace one side. You wrote that the wheel cyl bleader screw was broken off, just replace it so that you can blead the system, even if it looks shinny, now's the time to do it. "Quote" "Hell I might just get new shoes and ebrake cables tomorrow to avoid having to do this again, ever" That is the whole idea, that's what we been trying to tell you, just replace every thing, and your good to go. Redo the whole rear brakes, with the parking cables and you'll be done for awhile. But it's a Jeep, and you will "do this again" ;) UNLIMTD - You did not answer my question, if this truck was parked for 3 years, if it was, then you should redo all of the brakes, because the "organic" material in the linings will collect moisture and swell.

:thwak: :rotf: :rotf:

Great Pictures mjeff87 :thumbsup: Unlimtd - you say that the truck, or axel sat for 3 years, you could have a lot of rust on the drums, or the brake lining is broken down, and that's giving you a problem for adjusting in the first place. There slick, not grabing at all. What I ment by wheel cable, was the parking brake cable it's self, both the right and left are the same part #, not the small auto adj cable inside the drum. You also wrote that the parking brake lever is forward, that should be all of the way back, a bad cable will cause that. it works as a cam on the top of the shoes, which expand the shoe to the drum, thus setting the parking brake. As you can see in the pictures, the brake lining (bonding surface) is shorter on the leading shoe, and more, or longer on the trailing shoe. the adj levers should be tight, a trick is to pull the small cable back with your fingers, and the lever should move up, and release, and the lever will turn the adj screw (star wheel) that way you know that it is all put togeter right, and working. as the lining wears down this cable moves the adj wheel, thus "self adj brakes" and Eagle is right, if it works! The wheel cyl's will have the bleader pointing towards the rear, that's how to tell R from L. The adjuster screw will have a R or L stamped on them, or adj wheel points to the rear, same as the adj lever. Your over all hydraulic brake system will benefit on the system being blead, no air in the system. the parking brakes are indepentent of this system, that's why there also refured to as the "emergency brakes" I know it's a hard pill to swallow, But, yea, it's will be a $100 bill to redo the rear brakes, But then you know it's done, and that first panic stop, you'll be glad you did it. I redo mine because I don't trust what some one else done before me. And I alway replace every thing with the new kits, It's not worth the time messing with old rusted, missing parts. I've pulled drums and see loose, broken springs laying in the bottom of the mess. If you have to redo your hard lines, try to get new lines with fittings, or I buy 25 foot coils of 3/16" line, and hollow nuts and double flair my own lines up, its cost less. A double frair in not hard to do, and the tool costs $20 from harbor fright, compression fitting are not the greatest, and in NY are not legal. Will fail a inspection. As you can see, there are enought people here to help you get thru this, and it's just typical Jeep repairs. ;) Then we can start on the front brakes :brows: And if you can wait a couple of days, this will save you a few $$'s http://www.rockauto.com/ But heavy items, like drums, you can get local, and save on the shipping.

Some thought on this - Are your wheel cables free, move easy with in the cable, or frozen up, Replace them, about $14 each. Not turning the wheel by hand sounds like a cable hanging up. If you took the equalizer up alot, and ones longer than the other, cable could be hanging up. Are the brake shoes installed properly, there is a leading shoe(front), and a trailing shoe(back){more bonding surface} this could be a problem, and a common mistake. I would not compair a MJ's brakes with a '97 TJ's, that would have anit-lock brakes. 2 diffrent worlds. Do as 87manche saids for the broken bleader, also check ALL of your hard and soft lines, and replace anything that don't look good, easyer to do it all at once, than piecemeal it latter. one step bleading. and could save you a flag on the inspection. For $8-10 each, you could get a complete hardware kit for the springs(each side), and the self adjusters(right and left kit) and what $$ you spend on the kits, would save you HourS of time trying to fix a problem. Also make sure the wheel cyls and the adjuster are on the proper sides(right and left) switched adj's would tighten up a wheel as you drive and cause drag. As Eagle stated, get the brakes working properly first, and Manually adjusted and then fine tune the parking brake adjustment. If the brakes are installed properly, the self adjusters should work on there own, and no additional adjustment should be needed to the parking brake.

Yea......Wildman needs a lot of Help :eek: Thanks Twisty :bowdown: Anywho.....that a quick and easy, not show quality, but functional way to repair the floors. ( I just followed what other's have done)

Man....I got to figure out how to do pictures again :hateputers: Got IT......Thanks Pete, I was copying the wrong thing :oops:

Any thing is Salvagable......if you want to put the time and effort into it. If the frame is not rotted, and the drive train is in good shape, even for the 2.8, them put some time into it and make it a good road machine. Far as repairing the floors, this is what I did a year ago on a '89 - I got some galvanized sheet metal, shaped it in place, 3/16" pop rivets, and poly caulk the seams. Welding is the best way, but takes longer, and you can't weld to rusted out metal very well. Treat the rockers as Rokhound or Pete suggested. That Hobart 187 is a great welder, I barrow my friend's all the time, But it's a little strong for sheet metal, Great for 1/8 -1/4" steel, and I use my 110V for sheet metal, less burn thru. Gees....I got to buy my own tools and equipment, no one offers to buy me a welder for my birthday :roll: Get cleaned up, and what, drive it, sell it, your choice[/img]

Rear lite ground is behine the left tail lite, could effect front turns. Also check the conector on left frame rail, about a foot in from rear bumper. The rear harness has open crimps on the line that corrode, I just tear it all apart and redo all crimps w/B-caps and no-oxy. As Oizarod115 wrote, the fuse is 7.5 amp on the FB or it could be the switch on the tran'y More likly, your problem is in the wiring. Seeing that you changed all of the switches.

Opps....Me wrong on that '86, it's a 3 speed auto :oops: I didn't want to get JeepcoMJ all excided over that :teehee: Plus it's a 2wd auto. 87manche.....Yea, I got to check that out, could be? Plan is to chang all DT over from the '88 plow truck to the '86, Body and frame is Great shape, got to love them PA trucks, compaired to our NY rot boxes.

For new, a little pricey you could find this - http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ They do have a "cut off" rack, other wise, a junk yard / scrap yard should be a good supplyer for scrap practic pieces. It's always good to see some one picking up a trade :thumbsup: There are enought computer geeks out there. :hateputers:

Eagle - Man, I thought you had a whole corral full of MJ's. Ah....I think I'm tied with you now- '86 lwb, 2.5 (missing motor) 2wd, AW4 - parts? '88 lwb, 4.0, 4wd, AW4 - On road, w/plow '89 swb, 4.0, 4wd, Ba10 - on road - run around truck '89 swb, 4.0, 2wd, Ba10 - soon to be 4wd with- '87 swb, 4.0, 4wd, Ba10 - parts only for above And in the works- Buying a '87 swb, 4.0, 4wd, Ba10 with plow And for additional parts- '93 XJ 4.0, 2wd, AW4-only 76K on it. Plus enought parts for a 4X conversion, minus the D30 But you got me beat on the XJ's you have ;) And No, I didn't give any away, and I remenber that bumper deal.....that got lost some where's. Yep, guest you better start shopping :brows: I still need to fill in the '90, '91 and '92 modle years :roll:

Twisty - Not that bad looking, I think you got a good buy there, kind of looks like the add said it would :teehee: Naw- that a good start, even has the roll bar Little cleaning up and your good to go

But you love your little MJ.......Go for it, treat it to a brand new side panel, and it will love you back :teehee: See my other post for another source - (Sheet metal)

I just did a search here and the prices for the box runs from $1000 > 250, and couple of "dealers" had just sides for $125, So here's another option for replacements http://www.car-part.com/ I've see only a couple of boxes on eBay, one was 200 miles away, I went to $250, but it sold for over $300 (7foot box) I ended up buying a whole truck for less than that ;) But again, this is used.....so, is it worth it?? Repair what you got, unless it is totally gone, then eather get a JY box, or a better parts MJ. With both car-parts and eBay, I always look at the distance between me and the part, and figure if it is worth the travel time.

Yea, we covered this a couple of week ago - But, here's a start for the sides panels- http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ 6 foot bed Left 86-92 $1,240.00 $967.20 That first price is the list, 2nd is net. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

:popcorn:

WOW!!! :eek: I think it's time to clean out the shop here. That's more that I paid for a '86 mjX from PA, The whole truck.

Keep in mind that most all windsheld companys guarantee there work, so I'd say, save the $40, and if the new one leaks, it on them. If the original lasted 17 years guled in with no leaks.......well. ;) Guest it just the option if you want the metal trim, or not.

I'll say!! :yes: It's good to know that old posts don't die :eek: I solved the problem I had with swaping out a good regulator from a junk XJ, only sorce that I could find. JeepcoMJ wrote about junking a bunch of doors, :shake: I bet you never thought about the window regulators in there, I have only seen power regulators on eBay, and maybe once manual regulators on eBay, and the $$ was there for them, Yes, they have a High Value!!! So save them window regulators, store them, sell them on eBay, or what ever. The demand is there for them, BC Xj's need them too.