Wildman

Yea........nice find, I don't see too may '91's I like your picture of the "hug" :rotf: Now, you just need to remember what J E E P really stands for :teehee:

You could have an oil pump that's starting to fail, or the oil pickup screen is plugged with sludge. Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and plumb it in place of the sending unit, you should be reading 13psi at idle (600rpm) and 37-75psi at 1600rpm+ {this is from the '89 FSM for a 4.0} Yes, it could be just a bad sending unit too, a $6 - $12 part. I would check with the mechanical gauge first, and see what the reading is, and not drive around to much with the oil pressure failing like that. If it's the oil pump, it would be a good time to change the rear main seal, the better one piece pan gasket.......and other little items that go with the process of changing out the oil pump. As far as changing all the idiot lights with gauges........there are several articles posted on that subject that you can find. And........How was the movie?????

It's unlikely that the head gasket is leaking oil, but it's possible. Sounds more like the timing chain cover is leaking, and the fan is 'blowing' the oil back to the distributor. That's right behind the harmonic balancer. The oil filter adapter is also a prone oil leaker, but that's behind the distributor. Nothing like dealing with these 20 year old trucks and the 20 year old gaskets and seals :roll:

ah. Marcel, I see where you're going with this :popcorn: Yea.......you guys started it........but didn't finish it :roll: If your MJ is automatic, take it out of Park, into Neutral and see if it will start (turn the starter over) Run the gear selector up and down a couple of times and back into Park and see if it will turn the starter. If it dose, your NSS is sticking. Or, you just didn't have the gear selector in the perfect spot, and it's shorting out the starter relay, the safety feature for not starting the truck in gear. It could be just the gear selector not set just right, or.......your NSS needs cleaning. See this - http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/NSS.zip

I totality agree with Eagle, that is not a OEM brush guard, it's an after market bar, which bolts on top of the OEM front bumper, both on the MJ and XJ. I have one that I mount the plow lights on. It's not very strong just bolted to the factory bumper (stamped sheet metal) but it "looks" good, and at the price the guy's asking, it's a good deal. I think new they sold for about $129+ so if you like it, show up with the 1/2 C note and get it :yes:

Just want to say..........Merry Christmas to every one that ventures in the CC :yes: Hope you all have a wonderful day with your family and friends :banana: And some Christmas cheer {But not too much :no: } Happy Holidays to all :waving: (JT.......Your a poet, and I didn't know it :hmm: } :rotfl2:

I got to join your party JT :yes: T-Shirts arrived in the mail box today.........even thru the snow storms. :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: {Thanks Brent :thumbsup: }

Actually, mfpdm did a DIY write up on this subject, and it's a good read- viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8093 :yes:

Finally :roll: got the plow mounted on the MJ..........during the snow storm :headpop: And...... got to plow a foot of show out of the drive way right away to "test" the plow :D I know.........don't wait until the last minute :doh:

:hmm: Yea, I know your 'out of town'........but what's this, something new, you just walk around the neighborhood looking for a connection???? Guest you got to find a Starbuck's or a truck stop down that way to get back on line :teehee:

Now that's my Idea of "putting up the lights" :rotf: Quick and done, and easy to take down :thumbsup:

Yea, we got to wait to hear from JT about that tie-die shirt..........that might even be a 30 pound weight lost shirt :D And yea........I can hear Billy Mays screaming right now about this one :doh: But Taz.........you got the shipping and handling part wrong, that's too low, it's got to be $29.95 for each shirt ordered........even the free one :yes: {Just pay the shipping and handling for the first shirt, and shipping and handling for the 2nd free shirt} [yea, I get up too early to hear all these stupid commercials :shake: ]

:hmm: If you used a ford fuel pump, what kind of pressure do you have at the fuel rail?? It should be 31psi with the vacuum hose connected to the pressure regulator, and 39psi with the vacuum disconnected. If you pushing way too much pressure, I could see that being a problem. Yea, that sound like something that shouldn't be happing :hmm: Check this link for the cam sensor- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... Stator.htm The only other thing that pops into my head is.........how's the Coil??? And did you double check the grounds........all the grounds?? This could lead you back to where you said you have a "dead short" in the computer harness. It's back feeding thru the harness, and not grounded. I would check the harness to see if there is any "pinched" wires that happen when you did the motor swapping. I know if you have a broken line, you can use a tracer to help find that, I don't know if the tracer will find a dead short :dunno:

The fuel lines them selfs are stainless steel, but the weak spot is the connectors, like the rubber line at the fuel filter, the rubber lines that connect to the main SS line. The steel lines coming out of the fuel tank, supply and return, which can leak around the lock ring, and the O ring at the fuel tank / sending unit (pump and sender unit) this is a more likely place you will find a leak. Or, the gas tank it's self could be leaking. I've seen several kind of "sweat" gas out of the tank, cause the tank is so weak from rust. It's best to just get under the truck and do a good inspection, if you can not see anything, turn the ignition key to the "On" position, and that will run the fuel pump, and help with finding a weak line. And........welcome to the CC :D And Pete beat me to the answers..........again ;)

Oh Man!!!!..........Now I can't wait until my T-shirts show up :D So, what your saying..........If I put this T-shirt on, I can loose 22 pounds right away. :jump: You just might have the miracle weight lost device there Taz :yes: I should have ordered more shirts........2= 44 pounds.........3= 66 pounds........ :hmm: I guest next, you'll be doing one of them 1/2 hour info commercials for these shirts ;) :D Brent - Thanks for all your effort into this project :thumbsup: :bowdown:

:eek: :eek: :eek: I was not misleading you in any way not to "Save" this MJ, but not at that price. Look at it this way, if.....IF, the dealer is representable, they would not even show you a vehicle with the exhaust hanging on electrical wires. They would spent the $300 and replace the entire exhaust from the header to the exhaust tip, at least with the proper OEM style exhaust parts. They might not spent the $$ to repair the fender, or the floor rust, or clear coat pealing, or very little detailing, but a 'major' safety/performance item........Yea. I mentioned above what I would pay, and approximately what I would put back into this to bring it back to a reliable running vehicle. Add that up, and your about at what there asking for this MJ in the condition it's sitting in. To take it off the lot at that price, and then add additional money into it to get it on the road and not have future problem would really be cost prohibitive. If the dealer will not flex on there asking price, I'd say move on, and look else where, and as you wrote, yes, you can find a much better MJ with 4wd that is in road ready condition for about the same money or even less.

Really? Where? :hmm: :nuts: Well.........Jeepco did say he's from Wisconsin........... :teehee: That's not too bad of a '92 MJ- Pro's - Last year of the MJ Has the factory trailer hitch, which could be the "towing" package, which could = D44 rear axle. Full gauges, sports wheel.......nothing else on the interior. Under 100K on the clock (if that's the original gauge cluster?) Con's - Totally stock 2wd Stock steel wheels Rear end sags........alot.......bad leaf springs?? Bench seat is in bad shape.......picture #8 seat is sagged. Of course the fender bender.......not too bad (XJ front fender, and bumper for replacement) Picture #14 shows engine oil leaking (tie rods should not have oil on the exterior) Dealer selling it :roll: Typical clear coat pealing.........Needs a new paint job. Underside of floor has been noted above. And yea, the exhaust is shot, all of it. Would like to see some pictures under the hood And the price range your talking about..........Yea, if you could jump in it and go, with 4wd, but that MJ needs some work done to it. Top price I see........$800 - $900. Price I would pay.........$500, then spend about $1500+ to get it back in shape, and looking good. And that's my 2 cents ;)

Not quite, the CPS is in the rear of the engine, on the flywheel / Flex plate to be more precise, and the Cam Shaft Position Sensor is in the base of the Distributor. The CPS would give you a No Start at all. The Cam SPS would give you a rough running as you wrote. Jeepco gave you a detail expiation on how to check the distributor, which is the only way to really check the timing on the 4.0. You still can get an idea with a timing light on the crank marks to see if you close, but not any adjustments. Little more details of what you changed over :dunno: Like, everything??? Did you change all the wiring from the '90 XJ to the MJ?? Including the ECM??? Did you install a in tank fuel pump, for the 4.0 and not the mechanical pump on the side of the 2.8?? Oh......and forget the diagnose reader, it will not work on the '90 (Renix) Fresh "boot" on every start, no stored codes. Here's a link for some info on the sensors, and you can find some other info on the main page to trouble shoot your problems - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm And......to get you from point A to point B before Xmas :dunno:

Another Collage Project :smart: Only check valve in the system is the check on the fuel pump for supply, the fuel regulator, I guest could be a "type" of check valve, nothing in the return lines, But........the vent lines are a check valve style that trip-in, in case of a roll over. I get where your going with this........keep the fuel rail pressurized at full, for easier starting???? :hmm:

I understand what your asking, and your thinking in the wrong direction :doh: Read what CW wrote, see, you need to replace the entire steel lines, you can't just plug this and that. We're giving you advice and ideas, and your twisting them around :roll: Before you type any more questions, go talk to your friend, clime under the truck and look at the brake lines, see what your getting into, and then come back here and ask the questions. Unless you spent your time in higher education learning all about brakes and brake lines, do a little more reading on the subject to get an understanding on this subject :smart:

I understand what your asking, and your thinking in the wrong direction :doh: Read what CW wrote, see, you need to replace the entire steel lines, you can't just plug this and that. We're giving you advice and ideas, and your twisting them around :roll: Before you type any more questions, go talk to your friend, clime under the truck and look at the brake lines, see what your getting into, and then come back here and ask the questions. Unless you spent your time in higher education learning all about brakes and brake lines, do a little more reading on the subject to get an understanding on this subject :smart:

I guest I couldn't tell the size from the picture :hmm: I think ComancheKid45 wins the air freshener, now that he wrote what he thought it is, yea, there on the frame to support the brake hard line.

I guest I couldn't tell the size from the picture :hmm: I think ComancheKid45 wins the air freshener, now that he wrote what he thought it is, yea, there on the frame to support the brake hard line.

That looks like an after market coil spacer :hmm: When you were working on the MJ......did you jack up the body, and leave the wheel/axle on the ground???

That looks like an after market coil spacer :hmm: When you were working on the MJ......did you jack up the body, and leave the wheel/axle on the ground???