Wildman

The pump, sender unit fits into the tank reservoir at the bottom of the tank. Got ya on the RTV.....it's nice to keep a small tube of gas safe RTV on hand........after some of us learned the hard way :oops:

It should not leak........But....... It will dissolve, and plug up the sock filter :eek: And this I know........the hard way :roll: But, at least you don't need to drop a 40 gallon tank to replace the sock filter :oops:

Hum..........I hope you used RTV for gas, and not the Ultra Black RTV :roll: Other wise.......now you got your complete gas supply system re-built :D

Does this kind of fall under the K.I.S.S. thing :hmm: That dang old 20 year old gas line should be good for what, another.........10 minutes :D

This should do ya - http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoD30AxlesSeals.htm

I swear we had this conversation a few hours before this post.. :yes: I saw a set from auto zone today for 9+ something.. It was a nice set made from aluminum... Yea.......I think we did :hmm: The aluminum set is a good set to get, has the 4 common sizes and comes color coded too :D

Me thinks he better go hide when November comes around :rotfl2:

That's what I was kind of saying :roll: You didn't read between the lines :brows: If you want.......I"ll send you a good Used one I got in the shop. PM me your info, I can't get to the PO until Wednesday to get it out.......just pay me for the shipping, and were square.

We are still taking about the transmissions.........Right???? :teehee:

Well........the next thing to try, and use a whole lot of caution on this!!!! Block the front wheels, fro and aft, jack up the rear end, and put the axle on jack stands, only enough to clear the tires of the pavement, about an inch, start it up, and put it in gear, and see if you can find the source of the noise. If you need to have some "drag" on the wheels, apply the parking brake so it acts like a "load" on the wheels. With running around the back end, and listening, it should tell you where the whine is coming from, like in the pinion bearing, or left / right outer bearing. I would think it's one of the axle bearings, cause there 'dry' bearings, only packed when installed. It's best if you have someone help you do this, in the drivers seat, and ready to apply the brakes if needed. We don't want to make you do any unnecessary repairs, but the problem is.......your there, and we're here, and we can't hear, or feel where the noise is coming from ;)

I think the grommet your talking about, just fits on the bottom end of the sender unit, just to take the bounce out of the bottom of the tank. Unless you mean the grommet that holds the sock filter to the bottom of the pump, but it don't sound like it. You wouldn't have to replace the tank, you would need to replace the sender unit, and they can not be found at any parts store. Yes, either the feed line in not correct, the sock filter is plugged, or.......could the wires be on backwards, making the pump run backwards???? Yes, there is a chance the pump is faulty, it's happen before......was this a brand new pump from the parts store, or a used pump??? I've gotten a bad fuel pump for my cuber right from the Ford truck Dealer, and it was faulty from day one, and I didn't do any thing till 11 months later, when I broke down out of state, and then returned the bad pump, and got my $326 back. So much for buying parts from the dealer......in some cases. Been running a Napa fuel pump for the last 4 years now.

Yes, I know where the "mail box drop" is in the Falls :brows: If that's the one you use...... I think Rockauto will do the :Canadaflag: shipping, but not really sure on that one. The pressure tank, like Pete and others posted, that's a e-bay item, and there are better, more expensive metal pressure tanks out there. At worst, pick one up at a JY and you just might have solved the problem, plastic parts at the JY are cheep, there just junk to them......or next time your down this way, stop by and grab one I got laying around.........I know I got a couple good ones in the shop......or PM me you drop box, and I'll "send" you one :brows:

Your just going to have to move to a warmer climate........then you never have this problem again :D :teehee:

Dana 35?? The letting off the gas makes me think its the rear end.. :agree: Anything in the drive line that would stop whining when you let off on the gas, taking the torque off would show up. Hows the fluid levels in the rear, tranny, Trans case??? What shape are the U-joints in?? IIRC when you first started this, you had the whine when you were stopped.....parked, right??

Yes. Your talking about 20 year old cables, with 192K on them.......do an x-ray of the wire and see what it looks like inside the insulation. Of course that can't be done, but the point is.....the cables could be corroded inside the insulation, and that's where the problem lies. I brought up the AW4, because, beside the different TPS, manual or auto, there is also a tranny controller, and a feed into the ECU from the tranny, unlike the manual. IE: when you step on the brakes, it sends a signal to the ECU to drop the rpm's and start slowing down the engine for a stop, so that your not fighting the brakes against forward movement. Hum......now that I'm thinking of this.......could there be a problem with your brake switch??? Or......would that go back to the ECU being on the brink of going bad??? Face it......with 192K on the clock.....just maybe the ECU has seen enough use and is starting to get Alzheimer's :dunno: What you could do........is ask one of us to barrow a ECU for your specs and swap it out to see if that just might be the over all problem. Man......you changed out all the other items that make the thing run........there's only one thing left. But, I would move the changing of the cable up in your time schedule first, and see what that brings you, plus, it's not a big ticket item......what like $30 for cables??

I know the sender unit is a 'little' tricky to get in, but the only thing you really need to watch is that the pump and sock filter is sitting in the reservoir pan, that's in the tank. Your not really fighting gravity on installing the sender unit, as it hangs down. I would pop the supply line off at the tank, add a longer fuel line, and put it in a gas can, and hit the key for a second and see if the pump is suppling any gas. If it does, then you need to check the lines from the tank to the fuel rail. If the lines were primed as you said, then you should have some fuel pressure. Which grommet are you missing??? the one at the sock filter, or one of the plastic ones that support the pump its self??? If you don't have the pump supported, it can twist and turn inside the tank, and come off the supply line.

2X on that Harbor Fright set........I paid that price for one at Advance, then found the set of 4, and bought that.........yea, 2 sets now :roll: I've change the fuel filter so many times on my Ford, that I don't even need the line disconnects any more :oops: Of course, I've had to go with the spring stay locks. Their a pain, on the input side because it's so short of a shaft to the filter.......keep working on it, and it will pop off.

:eek: I see your point. I keep forgetting your up north, the other side of the great lakes :roll: Guess you need to come down here for parts shopping :yes:

Well......you can......but you need to re-weld the rear section of the tail pipe :hmm: So there goes your beer money :( Last time I bought a swb tail pipe, I think it was $42 shipped to my 10-20. It seams that the swb tailpipe only fits one vehicle......the swb MJ. The 7 foot tail pipe fits a couple other vehicles, that's why there's a price difference.

Yea, after reading all the other things you replaced........same thought here. Not really, at idle.......the knock sensor trims the timing more under a load. But then again........it feeds to the ECU :hmm: I think you have.......thats the only thing you haven't changed yet. How many miles you have on this MJ??? And I read it that you have the AW4?? If you do, your getting feed into the ECU from the tranny and like you say, 'in gear, stopped', your getting the erratic idle.

That the kind of thing, you just need to buy it from the add alone. :teehee: For what it worth.......I ran into a guy last year, that his buddy 're-built', had no top at all, not the half or full, and wanted $4500 for it :hmm: Running and no rust.........yea, it's a buyer :D

:agree: My '89 'Sportruck' that I DD had the front plate, and gas tank plate, but the transfer case skid plate was MIA when I got my hands on the truck. I agree that this was a OEM option, as we all know, you could order what ever at the time the order was placed........ah......the good old days ;)

Man......you changed about everything there is to change :eek: Couple thoughts :hmm: ........ Coolant Temperature Sensor??? CCV lines??? Causing a 'odd' vacuum leak / clog. I know Taz will jump in here........Bad grounds??? Might be a good point to change, check all your battery wires. I've heard that the ground strap from the fire wall to the engine will cause some strange running problem :dunno: Oh......and you know, we're not like the 'other' places :roll: So don't be embarrassed to ask ;)

Yup........same problem here......and only 96K on the clock........cold mornings, and 2nd don't like to be used :headpop: But, I found that if I double clutch, it will go into 2nd :D Another item I need to change to the synthetic lube :hmm:

:agree: If you pinch off the return line, that would run the pressure right up, but only do that for a minute or less. That would rule out the regulator. If your not getting any pressure at the beginning of a start, that would rule out the ballast resistor. As the pump gets full voltage at the beginning of a start, and then routes thru the resistor on the run cycle. It's got to be a problem with the pump, sock filter, or feed tube, pull the assembly out of the tank, and check it out, and next step is to replace the pump and filter. IIRC most of the pumps were the Bosch pumps, Advance sells a complete kit for the replacement, with the filter, feed tube and O-ring, for like $90.