Wildman

If you have the D44..........10" x 2-1/2" brake shoes. (The D35 takes the 10" X 1-3/4" brake shoes) If you don't need them right away, Rockauto has some great close out prices on the shoes. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,1688

Ya know..........with your "new" rear window, a sliding section could be added :brows: There's no way the wing vents could be reversed, the "bow" of the frame is side set, and the main glass would not work in the track. If you ever get a chance, with the fan on high, set on vent, and a sliding rear window, the air really flows thru the cab with the windows rolled up :yes:

The NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) on the right side of the auto tranny preforms that service. That cable "locks" the automatic floor shifter into the park position as a "anti-thief" device, to keep from moving the shifter out of Park with out the key in the ignition and "on" If you "now" have a manual transmission, that cable in not needed, you'll find the other end under the carpet, just in front of the floor shifter, towards the firewall.

Your Welcome :D

Here's the zip file for the steering column, that will get you into the column, and well, the smart switch. http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... Switch.zip Go new, a use one is what you have now, why replace it with a used one after tearing the column apart :eek: New switches are around $25.

Front recovery point :brows:

You harass people on Jeep forms????? :dunno: :teehee:

Follow the instructions in this link - viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077 and we don't call anybody stupid........you have to earn that :D (The main mod beat me to it)

Welcome to the madness :wavey: And........you live where the MJ's were built

:agree: 2X's There's no "Rule" that saids you can't have more that one MJ :D .........Is there??? :dunno: (note: only missing a '92 to complete the collection :( )

If your asking about the complete unit, they have not been made since 1992, so there are NO units on any parts lists. The parts counter guy will tell you he has one, but it's for the XJ and there is no way it will work properly, it can be make to work, but it's not a "bolt" in item. Junk yard, or ppl on here can offer you a used one if you really need one.

I couldn't watch that video after the MJ was shown :( Now I need to go over to the shop and hug my rust buckets just to get that image out of my head :mad: I visited 2 U-pull yards this weekend, and seen a ton of C4C already in the yards, most were better cars than what were parked in the parking lot at the places :hmm: Well........the picking for parts were better.......got my fill for parts, and going back for more at the end of the week........might as well get parts while there there :brows: And NO MJ's in any of the yards I was at :banana:

PM sent :D

It's all in the fingers..........knowing what key to hit :brows: Just don't waste your time looking for the "any" key on the key board.........I can't find that one :hmm:

Not to take sides......... Mine take alot of cranking to get started, but, If I hit the gas pedal a little, it fires right up :hmm: I have original fuel pump, that I know of, but replaced the CPS 3 years ago when it went under the knife. :dunno:

I guest I could say the MJ is my DD, running around town, out of town, but when I need to do a job, it's the Ford cube van, which only gets 10mpg :( ........the MJ......20+mpg :D

Before I posted, I check online, and they show 3 in Ohio, and 2 in California, in stock. Yes, there maybe some 'retailers' that have them in stock on "their" shelf. I'm not saying that there being discontinued, just saying that is what CRL has in stock at this time, and they may make more units in the future. I sold 2 of them last year, and there were many more in stock at that time, and also available in the clear glass. I can buy 1, 10 or 50 at a time.......but who wants to tie up that kind of $$$ Yea, temper glass is kind of hard to bend.......it kind of "explodes" if bent too far :headpop:

Paging Dr. Hornbrod.......Your wanted here....... And if he don't get this page........Check this out...... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14822&hilit=3rd+brake+light

Yes, there is a ground up front, drivers side, just inside the front panel, I think on the left inside fender. Connection "E7". Like I wrote before, check your front light sockets, that can throw off your rear light also. Did you check the bulbs in the front turn singles??? Make sure there in the proper position. At worst, from what you write..........your turn single switch, in the column could have gone bad, causing the "no left turn single" :dunno:

The CRL slider is only available in the 4 panel, the 3 panel is long discontinued. Plus at this time there are only 5 available in Dark Gray Glass. As noted above, the CRL slider is a "framed" slider, and no additional gasket is required. And Yes, you need Glass Urethane Adhesive to "set" it into the opening. Link to CRL- http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... delID=1653 If you want me to quote you a price, PM me, I have an account with CRL :D

If I can toss in an alternate for the mm screws........ We've used 10-32 x 3/4" machine screws (Pan head Phillips) punched/knocked out the old screws, inserted the new screws into the existing holes in the steel plates, touched a mig welder to the head of the screw, and used Flanged nuts to fasten it together. If you don't have a mig welder, you can use a nut to secure the bolt to the metal bracket, but up size to 1" long screws. 2X's on the anti-seize :D Unless you upgrade to SS screws. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 061&ucst=t http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 335&ucst=t You need 9 bolts and nuts per flair, in packages of 100 each, you'll have enough to repair about 10 flairs, and cost about $10.

The flasher's go thru the brake switch, that's why your flashers stop, when you apply the brakes. See if this helps you at all........ I seam to remember something about wiring a trailer into the Jeep system, there something about the way the lights are setup, that are not the same as some trailer wiring :hmm: Maybe someone else can clear this up??? If you disconnect the trailer harness, then all should work as it has before........unless, you took out another fuse??? Also, the brake / 4 ways should work with the ignition switch off, a hot circuit at all times. the turn signals will only work with the "key on", the 4ways over ride the turn signal. And, don't forget, a bad light socket in the front turn/park light can mess up the whole system :eek:

2X's on the amount of grease This is what I use for the flush u-joints, and for the hard to get at Zerk fitting on the regular U-joints, the tip fits right into the "ball" of the zerk fitting....... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZT24

I know I just seen this............ viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17339&hilit=ccv+hoses Mr. fiatslug87 posted up a page from the FSM, even thought its for the EGR valve, it shows the CCV system routing. Hope that helps ya :D

:agree: Check / Replace both battery cables, there 20 years old, and if you take the loom off the cables, you just might find the problem :eek: Read the first section of this, to see how the cables can look inside the loom, and what other results they can cause, and yea, this guy replaced the starter, and it all came down to the cables frying out the starter relay and ECU :eek: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17900&p=182058&hilit=battery+cables#p182058 Your "smoking" wire is telling you something. Find the source of the problem.