Wildman

1 question.........are the legs heavy enough to support all that added weight :hmm: Other wise........great idea :thumbsup:

:yes:

Leaving some sealant on the pinch seam should not cause a problem, if it's really "lumpy" then you can take a super sharp knife or razor scraper and "cut" it down. If you completely remove all of the old sealant, then you should use primer to re-seal the bare metal before you use any new sealant. There are also "primer-less" urethane sealants on the market.

:agree: Also........did you get all the air out of the system???? There are several write ups about how to burp the cooling system around here. With NO air in the closed cooling system, you should have filled it with appox 2+ gallons of coolant, as a good measure that the air is out of the system.

I agree with pulling the engine/tranny/Tcase as one unit :yes: But......from what I'm reading, your past that point. What are you asking :dunno: Your going on about the starter and this and that :hmm: It seams like the tranny is hung up, and your asking about the torque converter bolts??? First you remove the starter, all cables and linkage from the transmission, and the CPS. Then you remove the lower cover plate from the front of the tranny, and remove the 4 torque converter bolts. You get all four bolts with turning the engine (clockwise) from the harmonic balancer bolt. Then you drop the tranny cross member down *with the tranny on a transmission jack, or equal* and remove the engine/tranny bolts, and don't forget the two screws in the front of the tranny for the dust plate. All bolts and screws removed, you pull the tranny back, and out. The engine will drop down in the back. A block of wood between the engine and the fire wall will keep it from dropping too much. Hook up the chain and hoist/puller/tractor, and unbolt the engine mounts from the frame brackets, and hoist away. Oh, after you pull the exhaust off, and all the wire harnesses and what not.

XJ's rear door window regulators Will Not Work. There shorter and bent totally different, and mount in a different location (Yes, I've compared the two :roll: ) Unless you have a showroom condition MJ, I wouldn't spent that kind of coin for new ones, I've had real good luck finding used ones in the Pick-n-pull, and grabbed some off e-bay when the price was right, just bought a set last month for $12 plus shipping on e-bay.

I'm going with this guy 2 X's Plus - little more details - http://www.transonline.com/transdigest/ ... index.html

Well.....if you read up on Go-Jeeps article that I posted, it should tell you what position the quill sits in for your gears and what color speed-o gear you will need.......your axles should be 3.55, correct??? (4.0 / Auto)

I think he just want to let us know that he was a good buyer/seller/trader before any of us would part with an MJ to him :dunno: You know, we have to be careful whom we sell an MJ too :roll: Rob..........I think he'll really be interested in your '92 :brows:

I'll speak for the plowing part........ Yea, the MJ's are great for plowing, a few of us on here plow with the MJ :yes: In action - But......I've only used the 4.0 engine, both automatic tranny (much easier to plow with) and 5 speed manual, that I need to use 4lo to push. Can't and wouldn't speak about the 2.8, never had one, don't want one. I'll say......if the price is right, then get it, but......plan on swapping out that 2.8 in the future :roll: Oh.......and welcome to the CC :wavey:

Chaz - Great that you have been among us all along :bowdown: Very good video........ :thumbsup: Maybe some of you "points" will wake up the suits in Detroit......... :rotfl2: Man, I know most of us just can't let go of our 20 year old MJ's, but it would be great to see a new generation of Jeep (true) Pick-ups :yes: Keep up the great video work.

jimoshel - Thanks for loading up the pictures :bowdown: Now......I'll add the measurements - SWB = 18 gallon tank - appox 30" long, filler neck, 18" from rear of tank. * 8" from rear axle * LWB = 23.5 gallon tank - appox 36" long, filler neck, 10" from rear of tank. As I stated above, I'll still stand on what I wrote.

That's one thing we forgot to tell you :doh: Easy fix though :D You need to swap out the quill from your '89 and install it into your "new" '94 transmission/transfer case. '89 has a mechanical speed-o, and the '94 is a "electrical" speed-o.......I'm sure you seen the difference when you went to screw on the speed-o cable......didn't you?? The two quills just swap out, but take note where the one of the 3 "notches" are in relationship to the clamp, and install it the same way. Here's Go-Jeep's write up on changing out the gears, but it will give you an idea what the quill should be set at. Just note that he's dealing with the electric quill. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm

Glad to hear everything fell into place :clapping: And that you didn't have any problems with the wire harness........I just couldn't remember if the wire were totally plug and play, which you prove were :D Now.......what's this about the exhaust bolts coming off so easy :hmm: That's one thing I've never seen :eek: The only way I've ever been able to get the exhaust bolts off were by cutting or torching :fs1: Maybe some day I'll find one that will un-bolt :roll:

The LWB tank (23.5 gallon) is longer towards the rear. Check the filler door location on a SWB and a LWB......the filler door is toward the rear, near the wheel flair, where on the SWB, the filler door is about mid point of that quarter panel. Thus......the filler neck is toward the rear, and the extra 5.5 gallons is toward the rear. The front 2 straps are in the same location for both the 18 gallon tank, and the 23.5 gallon tank, the 3rd strap is for the "longer" tank. So, if the SWB tank is say.......5" from the rear axle, and the LWB tank is say 7" longer.....were does it end up :hmm: I'll get time Saturday to measure both tanks and let you know the lengths, the above measurements I'm just pulling out of my head.

Unless you have driven an MJ with a 4.0, you'll realize real soon that you don't need a V-8 under the hood.........at best, put a stoker in, and you wouldn't have the cooling problems and fitment problems you'll have with trying to get a V-8 in there. Also.......What's this??? Is that your budget for a replacement engine??? Are you going full re-man??? Good used 4.0 with around 100K are selling around here for $200-$250. I'm sure that's about the same price down your way :dunno: Going stoker.......ask one of them guys what they got into there engines.

:agree: 10 X's :hmm: ......... :chillin: ........ :dunno: .........What??? the guy's just a little back to nature??? Still a good "true fact's" video. We need him here :yes:

That right there is the correct statement :yes: Most of the ones I got were off e-bay or off Craigslist, a phone call, talk about it, and couple days later, I'm there to pick it up. One I bought last year, the guy delivered it to my shop on his trailer for an additional $20. I didn't see it until he pulled in with it, and found a few surprises on it, like OEM AC, and Cruse :brows: If the price is right, and you don't expect a golden egg, go for it :D

6th item down the page - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm And the rest of the Renix senors are listed.

PM sent.

You have it right if you use - An 18 gallon gas tank in the SWB ONLY!!! Or an 18 gallon OR 23.5 gallon gas tank in the LWB. Beside the different locations of the filler neck, the Larger tank will hit the rear axle on a SWB. If you want to carry extra fuel........Buy some Gerry Cans :yes:

No Problem Jim :D Get a hold of me after the 23th.

You should be fine with a good used resistor. Can you do a fuel pressure check??? You should get 31psi with the pressure regulator connected, and 39psi with the vacuum hose dis-connect off the pressure regulator. Could be a plugged frame fuel filter, or a plugged sock filter. It's has been noted that the rubber line in the tank, from the fuel pump to the sender unit hard lines can crack/rot/leak, and starving the engine for fuel. Also.......did you check the CPS?? Unplug the connector and plug it back in, or do an Ohm's test on the CPS, you should get 125-275 Ohms on A & B contacts. Anything out of that range, and it's replacement time.

:dunno:

:agree: Eagle has corrected me on the "Correct" terminology many times :D And being over a couple of hills myself........ :roll: .......I try so that we're all on the same page :yes: What I read under Harper's post, was he was thinking that the right axle shaft is "broken" off the interment shaft, I don't think he considered that the "older" D30, like smithe1811 '88 MJ has the CAD on that axle, making the right outer shaft free. :dunno: