Wildman

Can't help you on the 'puter issues :hateputers: But, at one time, I too would loose a long type, turned out the be the router I had, it would micro-fizz and I would lose everything :headpop: Yes, it could be your aftermarket fuel pump, I think mvusse had this issue a couple years ago, and went thru several pumps to get the 'working' correct pump. Try another pump, take it in for warranty, and it should be the Bosch pump, that was the most common for the MJ fuel tanks. Like I wrote, and what's a fact, you should be reading 31psi at the fuel rail, not 23psi. The only thing that comes to mind, is the fuel pump is not working correct, there's a pinched line some wheres, or a blocked line, Or.......your injectors are not holding pressure. But, you said you checked the pressure before the frame fuel filter......correct?? So........what answers are you getting on Jeepforum??? Any thing close to what we're saying???? Man.......I don't have the time to keep up with this forum, let alone to keep up with other forums.......and we all know CC forum is the best :yes:

I'm not an expert on '86's, others are, and there are some differences on the '86 model. And one of the problems your experiencing could be one of them differences, like a change in the steering column's mulit-function switch :dunno: If the right blinker is staying on, that's a sign that you have a grounding issue, it could be the front marker/turn light, most likely the socket ground. There is also a body ground behind the left headlight, on the inner fender that grounds the front lights. That 'yellow goo' is Die-electric grease :D

:agree: You would also need to change out the yoke. The 2wd axle has a spindle, and wheel bearing set in the rotor.

Guest I had a slow response to you post :oops: Glad to hear the sending unit is still good ;)

Behind the vent trims, there is a insert with rubber "flaps", if the rubber flaps have fallen out, you'll get that wind noise. You can remove the vent trims by just pushing up on them, there "key-holed" on to push pins on the body side. If your in need of replacement inserts, drop a "want" add in the classified section, and someone will respond ;)

What........you didn't want to add to the other 3 pages :dunno: The fuel pressure at the rail for a 4.0 should be 31 psi with the vacuum line connect, and 39 with the vacuum line disconnect from the pressure regulator. I don't know where your reading that 23 psi is with in range :hmm: And the range you wrote......."the 88 FSM I have says it should be about 31-39 psi." You reading that wrong :dunno: is should say 31 AND 39 psi, like I explained above^ If your only reading 23 psi, you have a problem. Before you run out and buy a new fuel pump, pull the sending unit out, a lot of guys have found the problem with the small short piece of 1/4" hose inside the tank, from the pump to the metal port, this cracks and leaks after time......like 20+ years :roll: Also, it could just be the pump sock in the tank that's plugged up and not letting the fuel flow, it's worth check out first. Also, that give you a chance to double check to see if you have the Bosch pump in that rig, or the Walbro pump. There are a couple write up on the DIY forum on how to remove the sending unit with out dropping the tank ;)

:fs1: :popcorn:

I like that original "Da Club" you have there :clapping:

Yea, I seen your other post on Tech. Your best bet is a new tank, and this place seam like the best deal - http://raybuck.com/i-66712-gas-tank-86- ... t-bed.html I see there price went up :eek: ......call them see if you can get the "old" price of $119. They also carry the straps if you need. Also there is a post on e-bay tanks. The problem is shipping a used tank, that's a 'can-not-do' :( Sending units :dunno: I have a couple, but I want to do my projects first, then I'll see what I have left, but that don't help you :( You'll be looking for the short arm sender for a LWB, the long arm sender is for the SWB. Or go thru these guys - http://www.fuelsender.com/fuel_send.html

:agree: That would be a good alternative for the MJ box :idea: Looks easy enough to build too :brows: And........wouldn't require the $250 per pair of MJ tail lights :yes:

:eek: And here I thought you had another kid show up :doh: Well.......still a nice find.......even for a 2wd (for now) XJ :yes:

I was just thinking the same thing :hmm: and it 9:48pm Eastern time here :eek: I bet they all got lost among all the boxes and parts :peek: and wouldn't be out of there until Tuesday........ :teehee:

You can all thank NY state for starting alot of the "odd" laws :roll: We've have the "hand free" cell phone law for about 6-7 years now, police are exempt from the law, calming that they make alot of "off radio" call with there cell phones :roll: And this carries a nice $150 fine if you get caught *know a few people that paid that* Now, we have the "no texting while driving" law, I think that carries the same fine :hmm: Guest you'll all be seeing that law in your home town soon :eek: Me, I don't text, but.......I might grab a call while driving, not in heavy traffic, but off the beaten path, and yes, it's distracting. I watch out for the other guy that's weaving all over the road while talking on the cell, or get behind some one that on there phone for 20 minutes :shake: The problem is, if you have an accident, and they can prove you were on the phone, hang it up, your done. Last December, a woman was killed on the thruway, she hit a deer, Daytime, and her car stalled on the passing lane, an 18 wheeler came along, and plow that car into a thousand pieces, they latter proved the truck driver was watching porn on his lap top, he's sitting in the gray bar hotel right now waiting for his trial to start. http://www.buffalonews.com/2010/01/27/9 ... d-and.html So, I'm sure our next new law will be 'no watching porn on a lap top while driving' :teehee:

It's good to hear your able to file a formal complaint thru the DMV ;) It might not shut the door on that dealer that did you wrong, but it will put some heat on them for a while. And with a couple more formal complaints, it will be the end of them. Small corner lot dealers fear the DMV watching their every move, not only to close the door, but in very hefty fines to them :eek: Good luck on your quest :D

http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-S ... tinfo/TSG/ I've also used this with good results :brows: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=36

:agree: Also, pull off the plastic wire loom for the positive and negative cables, and inspect both wires, and check the negative ground at the stud on the block. And the ground strap at the rear of the engine to the fire wall.

You could try this product - http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... delID=1563 I use it on rubber suction cups, and it keeps the rubber from drying out and cracking, I've also used it on some weatherstripping and in make the old rubber more flexible. The problem you have, might be like when tires get dry rotted, there is no repair to the rubber :( The rubber bed mats are kind of hard to find, so.......that might be the only one you'll ever see :dunno: The only other thing I could think of it using tire wet product, that would give it a shine :hmm:

Yea, when everyone sees you there, they'll back down, and let you have it for that :D Hey, I'll toss you another $20 so you'll have some extra $$$$ :brows: Just let me know ;)

Oh.......... Well.....the door panels I told you, or someone on here might have a set What color????? I have dashes and panels, but I'm too far away from you, shipping would kill the deal. The rest of the parts, try.......www.rockauto.com for good pricing on New parts.

You can start by reading this post - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13375 I don't think you have a T5 tranny, if it's behind a 4.0, it should be a BA-10. AX-15 mid '89+ or a AX-5 behind a 2.5 engine. Up until jpnjim posted this, a transfer case would not bolt up to a 2wd tranny, his post proved it wrong to all of us - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21055 That will give you a start on the conversion. The best thing you can do, is find a like era XJ and pull all the 4wd parts off you'll need, that way you have the donor on hand for all the little odds and ends that you'll need.

If you have a Harbor Fright near you, they have a fuel pressure tester for about $20, it's not the best, but it works........until it starts leaking out of the gauge :roll: Not sure if Advance / Auto Zone loans them out :hmm: you could check One question, after your last post..........how old is the gas that your running now??? If your fuel pump is whining very loud, that's a sign that's it about to crap out.

Yes, you would have water damage to the interior trim :( I'd be more worried about the personal damage you might receive from some members on this forum :yes:

Yea, same here :( But.........the '92 is the only model year I don't have in the collection :hmm: Have to really thing about this one............9+ hours away........high mileage, 2wd......No Rust :D

I don't quite get what your asking :dunno: You want prices on what the parts cost??? Or you want cost of what the above items would run??? Like, door trim panels, out of a P-N-P $12 4 door XJ's can provide this, there a direct swap. Ball joints (Moog $43) (Service grade $14) But, you generally change both upper and lower on the same side, at the same time, and Should do all 4 at the same time. Plus, when you get into it, you could find bad tie rod ends too :dunno: AC could be a can of Arctic-freeze or a complete conversation to R134a and new dryer and e-vac and could run up to $200+ at a shop. If your buy this '87, allow your self some repair $$$ The truck is.........23 years old. I always figure in around $500 on repairs for any used vehicle, unless it was well cared for, which is not always the case, that's why the seller is selling it :roll: That also reflects the price there asking, and what I'm willing to pay :brows:

Ohhhh, I just gotta do it, just gotta! If the "steering wheel is a bit loose", tighten the nut in the center of the steering wheel!!! Snicker, snicker!!!!! :rotfl2: But, What if the Nut behind the wheel is loose :dunno: *Yea, I had to do that too* :teehee: The steering shaft should be the same from XJ's, there might be a little difference on style of u-joints from year to year. Hmm......welding in new u-joints might be an options, like I said, we looked in to this a couple years ago, and NO replacements for the u-joints were available :hmm: There is a way to take up some slop in the steering box, that's what the screw/lock nut on the top of the box is for, but, only for a small amount of slop/wear, not counting on worn out steering components, or a totally worn/damaged steering gear.