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A couple of months ago I found some NOS Mopar TPS sensors on flea bay. I picked up 2 for a little over $50 and installed one and adjusted it for the new bored TB and have one for a spare. I also got a Rusty's intake tube and slapped on an AFE Pro Dry filter 21-30018.

I finally got a chance today to put my bored throttle body on from strokedjeep.com. I don't have any pics of it before I put it on except on my phone, I will see if I can get them uploaded later. While I had the TB off I went ahead and remove the EGR valve and EGR tube. I got a block off plate from Route 66 customs for $20 shipped with a gasket and new allen head bolts. I used Dodge Cummins oil drain plugs with high temp sealant to plug off the intake and exhaust ports where the EGR tube was.

Plugged the connector to the switch, turned the manche on and put her in 4wd and... Below are the parts I used. Pigtail and NP231 switch from Napa EC152 and FWD26, both were non stock items although I do believe Advanced Auto stocks the switch. The o-ring for the switch is a #35 which I found in the plumbing section at Home Depot. It is only 1/16" thick and would not match up with anything in my O-ring kit

It has been awhile since I updated, been busy with the new little man. About a month ago I tied up some loose ends of the PO when he did the 4wd swap. A hi-pinion non disco front axle was swapped in rendering the vacuum indicator switch inoperable. I found the wiring in the engine bay under the coolant tank, two black wires with red tracers going into a bullet connector. This is you power for the switch. The pigtail Napa p#EC152 has 2 leads a pos and neg, so I used a good ground on the firewall for it and put a male bullet connector on my pos side. Once i ran my wiring in a loom to the t-case I solder and heat shrunk my wires to the pigtail. Next i removed the old vacuum switch and installed the new one Napa# FWD26 with a new #35 o-ring which it didn't come with.

You may check your coil too. I had the same problem and it turned out my coil was bad

A lot a people claim the easiest way is to cut the pin in half, then drive the top one up and the bottom one down

Spicer will be off brand before long since they are no longer made in the US. That is one reason why I chose the Precision super duty, still made in America

Were they the standard precisions or the super duty? I have had good luck with the super dutys in my diesel. My Jeeps on the other hand only get Spicers.

Sometimes you can find mopar sensors reasonably priced on Amazon. Morris 4x4 also has a good selection of parts

Good deal. That sounds like a good idea. That way I'd be able to use that carrier and install 4.88's. What is the lug nut pattern on those axles? For future reference, Ford corporate axles don't have carrier breaks

If your running 40's you need 1tons, with 4.88s in a d30 there is Only 1 tooth contact between the ring and pinion

I'm running 3.55 in an 8.8 with a 4.0/AW4 and feel that it is very manageable. I'm I still going to regear yes, but I don't feel that it is a necessity at the moment.

The MC have the same part numbers but the boosters are different numbers Zeb a ZJ proportioning valve would give you a little better braking since they are setup with discs in the rear unless you modded the XJ valve http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoPvalve.htm http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoZJvalve.htm

I would try crossing the part numbers on Rock Auto or somewhere

I would try drilling it out and replacing them. Here is a link to some battery parts and the j bolts http://www.jeep4x4center.com/battery-trays-cables-clamps/jeep-cherokee-xj.htm

http://comancheclub.com/topic/36789-wv-mj/page-2 Here are a few pics from my build thread starting at post 33

I did the WJ booster and mc swap along with a ZJ proportioning valve for my rear 8.8 discs. The difference is amazing and I didn't have to move my washer bottle like some people claim. Here is a pretty good link http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/

FYI I have used the PPR brand previously and have not had any issues. I have never heard of having to trim the the cable it worked fine on mine. The Rugged Ridge ones are just repackaged PPR gears.

I have always had Dewalt some of my 18v batteries are going on 6 yrs old. I think the key to their longevity are that they were used everyday. Recently I have been purchasing Milwaukee.

I have a 98 with the 5.2, 138k. I have had it since it was new and have had zero problems with it. It has been Long armed with 35s and beat on since around 32,000 and loves it. I would personally get a 5.2 over a 4.0, mpg are roughly gonna be the same and 318 are pretty reliable imo

The RE mono tubes I just bought for my ZJ are made by Bilstein. I have only had them on the road once since it is winter, but I really liked the ride. They seem to be a little on the soft side.

I would check the rubber grommet on top of the valve cover first. The one on my 4.0 had started swelling and blocked of the hose.

I would just replace both since you will have the unit bearing off anyway when replacing the u joint. A good Timken bearing can be had for $75 on Rock Auto.

I would redo the spring perches and get those angles correct first. Then you could have your old shaft rebuilt or get a new one built. Any good driveline shop should be able to rebuild your old shaft.

I would wait until the springs get broken in and settle. At that point you may be close with your 1.75 puck