Twisty

lol I guess I did!! http://greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

Now does that 12" of extra droop allow you to turn the drive shaft without the thing binding? Wouldnt the ears of the YJ yoke hit on the driveshaft end cap, because they don't have the same clearance as the YJ slip yoke? At what would be a 8" lift that had 12" of droop, the shaft spins freely without binding. It doesn't start to bind until it droops 3" more. I see. Thanks.

No problem. Hopefully you can track down your death wobble problem. ;)

if the spring is installed, where do you place the angle finder thing? Image Not Found You can put it on top of the ball joint...like in that pic. Thanks to CW for the pic.

Here is a link to some FSMs. I downloaded the 1988 year, because thats what I have. I think you could use 1988 as well, because your 1990 will be a renix system.

Now does that 12" of extra droop allow you to turn the drive shaft without the thing binding? Wouldnt the ears of the YJ yoke hit on the driveshaft end cap, because they don't have the same clearance as the YJ slip yoke?

If all the CAs are bolted up, then you can check it without the spring in place, because the spring just sits between the frame and axle. The axle will not move when the spring is installed.

I knew I had seen pics of those before...but I couldnt remember. Thanks CW.

So R27 comes with a housing, 4.11 gears, and a locker...correct? Alloy axle shafts are ~$250 new (some places with free shipping), and seals are available from the dealer (probobly cheap too). I'd get alloy shafts because its probobly easier than finding used D44 shafts, and its a good upgrade.

I think you can straighten that out using the adjuster screw, and the jamb nut.

here's a somewhat helpful quote... here's the link...little more then half way down. http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html

R27 is a 1986.....which would ne an AMC20, wouldnt it? I dunno though, maybe it is a D44. You might need one with that stroker :D

Why get a manual....just ask Pat. :D

You will be glad you did! I recently "alligned" my MJ, and tightened up loose bolts (I found 1 LCA bolt and 1 UCA bolt loose). The steering has NEVER been so perfect!

I've never had to deal with death wobble. Sorry I can't be more help. What do you mean when you say "the bends in the control arms will be pointing to the same side of the truck sometimes?" Oh, and the joints you have on those LCAs are "flex joints." It would not allow them to flex if the outer eye of the joint was flush with the frame/mount. The way they are set up now allows them to pivot.

I would get the upper arms but i want to save that money for a long arm. Wise choice. I purchased my 6.5" springs, adjustable UCAs/LCAs and an adjustable tracbar for $240 from a local club member . Other wise I would have long arms :D

There are shims that go into the LCA mounts on the axles. At least I think thats where they go. Anyways...those control caster. I adjusted mine with adjustable upper arms.

I believe the gap should be there. The joint is tight against the frame and the mount, correct? If it is, and the bolt is tight...then I'd go with it.

i have both and prefer chiltons.

I have between 5 and 7 degrees. The return to center is still very much there, and no vibs at 6.5" of lift.

Not quite what I expected, Joel. ;)

Hows the recovery going?

and a mohawk

Sorry for the big pic. :roll: