Twisty

Thought I'd update this again. Now its sitting on 42 Iroks. I'm at the point that I'm ready to chop the frame, link, cage, and buggify the entire thing. I have a pair of 16" travel 2.0" SAW air shocks for the rear, and a pair of 14" travel 2.5" Fox air shocks for the front. Just waiting for 1 more wheeling weekend then its under the knife. Ignore the wooden bumper. It is an inside joke for my club. :D

Wow, I was just looking back at this thread, and realized that it has been forever since I've updated it. My MJ has changed a lot since the last pics. I can't believe it was ever that straight!! In December 2009, I started my 1 tons swap. Axles are 1979 HP D60, and 1978 GM 14bff. 5.38 gears, welded diffs, hydro steering, 37" Cooper Discoverer STTs, H2 wheels, 3 link front. I sold a bunch of my parts that I used to fund the swap to people on this forum. My axles, control arms, and wheel spacers....were all sold on this site. Here is where I did my project. From beginning to end, it took me 8 months. And yes, I worked on it throughout the winter in my driveway. Here's what the MJ looked like the first day that I drove it in 8 months. But after having it out a few times, I hated how long it was...so I cut it up. Here is how long it was before. And here is what I did to it. (less than a week before I had to leave for a wheeling trip, I might add) I rebuilt the rear bumper, and welded it to the rear frame. I then built shackle mounts off of the bumper, and tied them into the frame. Here are some wheeling pictures. And if you're interested, my build thread on Pirate. I have MANY more pictures detailing my 1 ton swap through the 8 month build time. http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=814406 And my new-est addition, is a 1997+ front clip, and fenders. And I also picked up another 1979 HP D60 for $300. I'm thinking of HP rear steer sometime soon. :D

I miss my axles :( They served me very well!! I'm glad to see that they're going to be used well though. How did the inspection go with the "new" ball joints? Thanks for posing update pics :wavey:

you need an oil pressure sending unit. $40 at NAPA.

Bic, is that the Gutter? ;)

I popped a bead on this one. And my latest idea of a good time. :nuts: Image Not Found

I say June 10.

I'd get a Dodge 1 ton CTD :D.

Check the valve cover gasket first!!! I was leaking 1qt/week in my XJ and thought it was the rear main seal. I replaced the valve cover gasket first, and that stopped ALL leaking. It was leaking from the back, and oozing down the back of the engine...fooling me into believing that it was a r/m/s leak. :nuts:

I agree about the exhaust. The tank does not get hot at all like it is...but I'd still like to have the exhaust dump behind the tank. I just need to get some extensions and futz with it for a while. My fault. Tried a stupid line and slid off of a wet rock and fell into a little void. The funny thing is that my mom was in the passanger seat :D . Thanks Pat!

Sorry for the long delay. I had some issues with my other tank and had to aquire a new one. NOTE TO ALL: don't drill holes though the pinch seam weld....it will leak. I've had 2 wheeling trips with this mod, and it works great! I love the fact that I don't have to worry about hitting, or denting the tank on a stump or rock. Tank from above. ...and from below. There's about 7" between the tank and drive shaft at the shortest distance between the 2. Here's a referance pic (6" 3/8 extension) taken for you Jeepco ;). Wiring underneath. And from above. Here's a shot from another angle. ....and another. Image Not Found

There was a small bulb behind the shift indicator. I seem to recall there being a hole drilled dirrectly underneath it, and the wires were snaked up into the indicator. There were no wires running down the column (that would look ugly).

I got pics of mine. I don't know what year it came out of...I didnt check. This is what made me believe it was stock...see how it forms around the ignition? And how the pointer mounts. I also never bothered getting a light for the selector. I just remember that 1 click is R and 3 clicks is D (just like all automatics). :cheers:

Correct. But the shift indicator is an integral part of the steering column; you'd have to change out whole column. Are you sure? Unless I pulled an aftermarket modification out from the MJ at the junkyard...all it took was a small ratchet and a few minutes. To install it, I just used some self tapping sheet metal screws. You can see it here.

Some come stock. I found one of those PRND31 things on an MJ in a junk yard.

Too bad you guys are all the way out in WI. I have 2 LWB MJ roll bars here.

What about superior or moser?

In the stock position, the tank is smack dab in the middle beween the drive shaft and the leaf spring...there's no protection from sticks/rocks/stumps. Its very easy to put a dent in the tank if you're not careful. :eek:

I'd rather have the rocks hit the driveshaft than the gas tank. on a similar question...will the driveshaft contact with the tank at full squat? I think there will be enough clearance. If there isnt...the easiest solution is to add some spacers between the bed and the tank. I'll take a picture of the clearance today. I'd rather have the rocks hit the driveshaft than the gas tank. on a similar question...will the driveshaft contact with the tank at full squat? I'm turning my tank around for more clearance because of the angle. If needed I'll space it up some. The skid is in case the driveshaft get crazy or some else happens. I tried that, but there wasnt enough room between the wheel well, and the front of the bed. You will also notice that the tank isnt perfectly center in the bed. I store my spare tire on the passanger side between the wheel well and the front of the bed. I didnt want to lose this space, so I moved the tank over to the left. I couldnt go all the way over because then I would be hitting the frame rail. There is about 2" beween the tank and the frame rail when its in the bed.

I got this at the hardware store today. This foam edging is pretty squishy. I'm not sure if its going to be enough though. We will find out once I get the tank in the bed. I didnt see John's post about those rubber grommet thingys, so I didnt look for them at the hardware store :-\. Then I sanded/painted the bottom with rustoleum glossy paint (Smoke color). I also extended the lines for ground/pump+/fuel sender ~2 feet. Here's where the fuel lines/wires will be routed through the bed. And here's some of the foam edging on the lip of the tank. I'll finish up tomorrow .

So my fuel tank is leaking. Actually, the tank its self isnt leaking, but the fuel pump port where the fuel flows in and out was. I think one of the steel outlets had cracked, or the brazing had cracked, and gas was leaking out whenever I drove it. I tried the gas tank putty...but it didnt stop the leak: infact, I think it made it worse somehow. Knowing that the Boneyard cut/run was this weekend...I wanted to get it fixed. Here's where the tank is in the stock location (just infront of the rear shock). You can see that its not in a great spot, and is easily hit. Even though I had a skid plate...I was still worried about its vulnerability. First I had to drain the fuel from the tank. I did this by running a wire from the + battery terminal over to the ballast resistor...which jumped the pump and drained the tank. There is still ~5 gallons left in the MJ tank after draining these three cans!! Now I would have just replaced the part thats broken...but to the best of my knowledge, they don't make it anymore!! I have 2 parts MJs, and both of them had parts which were not usable (stupid rust!!). Since I was thwarted here...I turned to my old XJ, and got to thinking...maybe I could "upgrade." It also had a leak...so I used some tank putty here. I've held the tank upside down, and its holding great! Then I pulled out the stock MJ tank. Lots of room under there now!! Out came the grinder. :brows: Lots of trimming later, and it fits very snug. There is no side to side, or forward to back movement. And from beneath. I LOVE the ground clearance that I've gained. Its going to be awesome to wheel this now! Too bad that its costing more and more to fill these darn tanks.

Its still just a baby. ;)

Thats just wrong. People say that "Europeans have been paying this much for a long time." Well 2/3 of that is tax, AND they have government subsodised health care, and other programs....which Americans have to pay for. It not logical :hateputers: .

20 mins away there was a 3.49 this weekend. The ones in town are still 3.59 or 3.65. This is pissing me off. Oil rose to $123 a barrel because the US announced that there was growth in the labor department...meaning that we will be using more fuel. :roll:

Me too. My rear drive shaft is 48.75" from center to center on the u-joints.