Twisty

I found one ~1 hour from my house for $150. Full floater, and complete from drum to drum. Best of all, its coated with POR15 or equivalent...so no rust :brows: If I can get the 14b for $150, and it costs $400 do upgrade to 35 spline shafts....you can see the obvious choice.

The stock D60 rear shafts are 1.31" thick. The same thickness as D44 shafts :eek: 14 bolt shafts are 1.5" thick. I'd rather know that I have something that CAN handle the large tires. ;)

I've been reading about the rear D60, and it seems that boring out the spindle to accept 35 spline shafts is a PITA. I found a 14 bolt on craigslist that is advertised for $150. I offered $125..we'll see where this goes.

Ok. I'll send him a message. This winter will be a fun 1 ton build :D

I have a guy offering me a pair of D60s from a 1978 F350 with 4.10s for $900. I'd love to get them, but $900 is kind of hard to pull out of thin air ;)

My backing plates were rusted straight though. I had to get new ones. I tried to get some off of ebay, but it turned out they were for a Grand Wagoneer...and wouldnt fit the MJ D44. I said screw it, and went to the dealer. This was last summer...so I'm all set for parts now. Thanks.

Jeff, just curious...how much did the brake assemblies cost you? When I did mine...I got the backing plates from the dealer for $102 EACH :eek:

I believe that the computer needs to read 4 cranks of the flywheel to read that everything is working correctly. My MJ does it, and it starts EVERY time. Sometimes it will start after 1-2 cranks...and I don't know why.

I have a LWB roll bar for sale. :brows:

I think its a transmission problem. I was having a discussion on my club's forum, and one guy (Derek actually) had an identical problem, and it was the tranny. Woohoo, I managed to kill an AW4. The exhaust melted a transmission cooler hose on route 2 resulting all the atf being spilled on the exhaust and smoking like a bastard. I think this has somthing to do with the problem.

I will recheck the vaccume lines. Thanks. I'm so depserate now...even suggestions of places to look is a huge help, because I've played with it so much, that I don't know what to do anymore. I read somthing about the NSS causing the issue, so I bypassed it and NOTHING. I tested the resistance on the solenoids in the transmission, and one read 13ohms and the other two read about 8ohms. I don't know if this is from a bad ground or what...but I used the same ground for all 3 wires ??? I've cleaned the IAC, bypassed the ballast resistor, adjusted the TPS, removed almost all the exhaust (looking for some sort of clog), and tried a different battery. I unplugged the O2 sensor, and the same thing happened. I have another 02 sensor that I will throw in for the helluvit. I'm so baffled. It really appears that the torque converter is locked while in 4lo...but its impossible for the torque converter to lock in 1st gear on the AW4 (even when I tell it to...it doesnt). Even on the jack stands whe the brake is depressed it will stall. If I shift into D without the brakes on, then go into D it will sputter REALLY bad. I'm wondering if its a fuel pump...but wouldnt it do this in ALL gears, not just 4lo?

I've looked at the linkage a lot and there appears to be no wire shorting out. I have it up on jack stands now, and when I put the Jeep in D and in 4LO, and leave the engine OFF, I can spin one wheel, and they all spin (I have lockers). Someone suggested that the t-case might be jamming in 4LO while going forward. If I start the Jeep and put it in D (while on the jack stands) it will go fine, but if I put my foot on the brake it will stall immediately. If I give it gas it will sputter a little. anybody?!?!!?!?

So I went to my club's BBQ yesterday, and I went to throw it in 4lo and it stalled the instant I put it in D. So I tried again, and the same thing happened. I then started it again, an put it in R to back out and it went just fine....then I tried D again and it stalled. Yesterday it was just stalling, no sputtering. I could neutral drop it, and after one lurch it would run fine...but if I came to a stop, put in R or P, then back to D it would die (if I didnt do a neutral drop at ~2000rpm) I looked at the TPS and checked the voltage, and it was in spec (.70v). This morning after fiddling with some stuff and not really doing anything, it started to sputter and lurch in 4lo, but only when the brakes were on. The funny thing is that in 2hi and 4hi....it goes fine, but does sputter in 4hi some times....very rarely though. There is plenty of fuel in the rail, and when in N or P, if I rev it, there is no hesitating or sputtering indicating low fuel pressure. I know the torque converter is not causing this problem.....but I have NO idea what else it could be. I need to get this fixed soon, so any help would be appreciated ANY ideas!?!? 88MJ, 4.0, 231, AW4.

Its on the passanger side of the front axle, on the back of the tube (almost under the starter). Its a vaccume acctuated motor that slides a collar over the splines of the two shafts and engages them. You might have a sticky shift fork, or a broken vaccume line. You can take out the 4 bolts on the vaccume actuator to see if it is sticky. If it moves fine then you have a vaccume problem :(

http://www.autoblog.com/2007/08/15/spy- ... t-testing/ :popcorn:

Your CAD isnt working right..ie, the disconnect is remaining disconnected, and not connecting ;)

Damnit Mitch, it looks better than mine. And its a SWB too, which kicks so much @$$! can't wait to see it at the BBQ!!!

OOOOR you could get 1 piece shafts with the 297x ujoints, and not have to worry about the u joint failure. Thats what I did.

All XJs had HP until 2000 then they went to LP. All YJs had HP. All CJs had LP and all TJs had LP.

WOW! Thanks for that site Hornbrod. I never knew that existed!

I made the same mistake with the calipers being upside down not 3 days ago. Its kind of a "duh" moment when you realize what you have done. ;)

Did you bench bleed the new master? Its really easy to do, and can insure that you have NO air trapped in the master cylinder ;) .

If you have a Chiltons manual, it will tell you how to do it. Basically, you probe the wires on the TPS, and when the throttle is in idle position, the voltage should read 0.5v-1.2v. If it is out of spec, then you just do what 1986Comanche said, and loosen the screws and rotate the TPS until you get the desired voltage. Mine is set at 0.5v, and it runs very smooth....especially with the new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires :brows:

Well I was futzing around with the MJ, because it didnt have ALL the symptoms of a bad fuel pump. It turned out that the TPS, was WAY out of adjustment, and the IAC was bad. I adjusted the TPS, and pulled the IAC out of my spare 1990 XJ, and the MJ is running great! Thanks for the replies Hornbrod, and CW. I know I will remember this thread when I do need to do a fuel pump!

so I need a fuel pump. My truck randomly dies, and the fuel rail holds almost no pressure after 1-2 minutes of sitting...but it does run, and the pump doesnt sound out of the ordinary. What did everyone use...NAPA? any part numbers? I just want to know where to go so I can get a good unit.