Eagle_SX4

Yeah I think the SX4's were the best looking body style of the Eagles. Wagon 4 door sedan 2 door sedan 2 door kamback 2 door convertible SX4

Progress is slower than I would like but still moving forward. Got the gas tank painted and installed. I also got all the fuel lines plumbed. Got the speed sensor installed. Need to run some wires to it. Got the crank position wires extended because I got the CPS relocation kit from hesco which moves the crank position senor to the harmonic damper. It uses a factory crank position sensor for the 95-early 96 4.0 auto trans, with a custom bracket that mounts to the oil pan bolts. With a machined harmonic damper to replicate the flywheel tone ring.

When I bought my Comanche the odometer was seized up. Drove it home and watched the tenths roll around but never change the mileage. I pulled the cluster out and removed the speedometer. I wiggled the numbers around and they all freed up and is still working great. I have put about 15,000 miles on since then.

You can see the channels for the clutch pack "ears" in the second picture from the op. Pretty sure it is a limited slip.

This is my 1:10 scale TRX-4 Comanche. Just a vacuum formed shell from proline but way better than the land rover body it came withHorn button is just there for size reference.

If any one is interested I found a good write up on the Cherokee forum for using a high out put throttle body with a remix TPS. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/diy-adapting-renix-tps-onto-ho-throttle-body-230710/

Pretty sure it is a limited slip the open dif housings are round on the end. Here is a screen shot from a different forum talking about limited slips in a tj.

This might be out in left field but looks like you have a high output intake manifold and throttle body on a renix engine. That shouldn't be an issue as long as it was done correctly. From the little research I have done on the topic, the throttle position senor runs the opposite way the renix computer is used to seeing. It would cause some issues if there isn't an adapter for it. Maybe @cruiser54 can comment on this.

I know that the front xj front studs are longer than the rear ones. Rear studs DORMAN 610364 thread length .96. Front studs Dorman 610109 thread length 1.595. the fronts have a slightly bigger spline but will still pull through the hub.

Awesome Thanks

Thanks for the reply but there are a few errors in the build sheet. Here is a pic of my vin plate. The paint codes are 9BAJ. Olympic white and medium blue metallic. Looks like I found the original colors when I took the fender flares off. Never seen a picture of another one painted like this one was.

Thanks @1987Comanche that layout for the power distribution center is what I was looking for. Is there a more detailed diagram showing wire color?

Just checked their website looks like they have an '86 Comanche at their Twin Falls location

So it turns out jeep changed some things between 91 and 92 on the power distribution center. Here is a picture of the layout for both. It might be hard to read but they moved the relays around and added a fuse to the fuel injection. Still trying to sort it all out. If anyone has a 92 power distribution center schematic it would help a bunch.

Got the gas tank welded up today and the filler neck has been moved to back. I pressurized it and after some lots of grinding welded it is sealed and should be good to go. Now it is time for paint. Got some new vent valves and seals ordered should get those next week and then the gas tank will be done.

What junkyard is it? I am about 4.5 hours away. I don't need another ax15 (already have a spare) but good to know about another junkyard.

Awesome thanks @acfortier. That is what I was looking for. This will make things a lot easier when I start slimming down the harness.

Thanks @Pete M just got it posted there.

I am working on putting the fuel injection back on my '92 4.0 I have in my AMC Eagle SX4. The last 4 years I have been running it with the 4.2 liter manifold and carb set up. It is now finally time to put the original fuel injection back on it. I am having problems locating a good wiring schematic. I have the Haynes manual which has the computer wire schematic but I doesn't have the firewall bulkhead connector diagram or the power distribution center diagrams. I was wondering if anyone had either of those diagrams?

Right now I am trying to sort out the wire harness. From the schematics I have been able to find I should be able to make this a stand alone fuel system with the only wires I need to hook up to the Eagle's wiring being the battery positive, ground and a switched ignition source. The engine harness I have is out of a 92 Cherokee. I was wondering if anyone has a diagram of the bulkhead connection on the firewall for the 91-92 High output 4.0?

Looks like the grille is upside down. Other than that a great collection.

1987 Comanche Pioneer Long bed 4.0 AX15(originally was BA/10-5), NP242 (originally was NP231), Dana 44 rear and High pinion Dana 30 up front. It has a 3 inch lift up front and about 1.5 out back. Tires are 31's. I don't know the build date but every thing leads me to think January of 87 Currently owned by me in Northern Utah Currently daily driver, weekend exploring rig I am pretty sure it had the skid plate package but all of them were gone when I got it.

It is not in the registry yet I will work on that tonight.

Most recently I replaced the bench with some Dakota bucket seats. I got them as low as I could get them. Including moving the inside driver's side seat rail out board to clear the transmission tunnel and still having to bash the floor a bit to get them to sit almost as low as the factory bucket seats would have been. I don't know for sure if they are as low as the factory buckets but from the pictures I can find they are close. I still need to section and lower the center seat because as it sit right now my head goes through the roof of I sit there. Don't know how anyone can use these seats bolted together like they are in the Dakota.

April 2023. Got a lot done this month. Swapped in a different gauge cluster because I thought the needles had been moved on mine because they had some after gauge faces installed. (They weren't the new cluster reads the same as the old one). Still trying to figure out why my gauges are more accurate the colder it is. Mainly my volt meter. I did add an extra ground for my cluster before I took these pics. Also got a R.E.M clock installed. Next I got some new rear springs from General spring and installed them with some Chevy drop shackles. Now the back is finally level with the 3 inch lift up front. I fixed the sagging driver door. The door pins were worn out. What a pain they were to change. Some one had tried to replace the pins before but failed. The top pin was never fully installed and the bottom pin was never replaced. There is still some slop in the bottom hinge so I had to re shim the door to get it right. Now it closes like it is new and all the gaps are even. Found some old paint. Looks like this truck has been re painted twice From what I can tell someone put a blue stripe between the bodylines all the back to the tail lights and then someone else repainted it again. I think it looked like this but with a blue stripe instead. Was the blue a factory option?