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My 88 does the same thing and it's the ignition switch. Try wiggling the key next time and see if it will keep running. I might ask if anyone knows if the switch can be accessed enough to allow a spray of WD 40 to hit it without dismantling?

88 4L BA10, Anyone know of a creative way to get a bit of lube in there to buy a bit of time? Put a new Throw out and slave in a while back and didn't even check the pilot, now it's periodically screaming at me for my negligence.

I am the second owner of this Comanche and have had it for 19 years now and have experienced minimum brake issues. During my ownership the proportioning valve rod [8"] has always seemed too long and the lever at no load stands between level and straight up. I estimate a rod of about 5" would make it level. The existing rod seems original but, of course, I can't be sure. Does anyone know the length of the original rod?

Don't forget to check the DPD {deathwobble prevention device}, otherwise known as the steering damper or stabilizer. That's what it's there for. Back in the day, a brand new Jeep would develop the shimmy if it was removed. I don't see its importance mentioned very often in this forum.

Be sure the weld above the pedal has not sheared.

Got a couple in Edgewater. An 88 Pioneer, Olympic, 6L, 4X4, and an 89 6L, rwd.

Yes I have. I was checking spark at the coil and noticed no spark while cranking but after releasing the key to the run position there was a spark or two just before the engine stopped turning. Then I realized I could start the thing if got my on off timing just right. Isn't there some system that is supposed to provide higher voltage to the coil when in starting mode?

Thought I would get my 89 4L parts Comanche going after a long sitting spell. After a new fuel pump it will only start [with luck] after releasing the key from start to run mode. What is supposed to provide spark while cranking? I assume there is relay of some sort which is not doing its part.

I had this same problem for years. Took the lock mechanism out and soaked it in kerosene overnite, reassembled the whole thing and little difference. The solution is, once you get the door opened, on the backside of the door next to the outdoor push to open button in the handle you will see a small plastic plug. Pop this out and lube generously with spray [WD40, etc}, exercise the lock outside and inside a number of times and presto, Fixed. Since I performed this fix, no more problems.

This describes exactly what my wife's 1999 XJ has done since we bought it 3 years ago. Otherwise it runs perfectly, so I have to assume that this situation could apply to other Cherokees as well. Thanks for the info.

I'm paying $3.15 a gallon here in New Smyrna Beach, Florida, not delivered, and that's the lowest in the area, I believe. Little too far to head your way for a fillup, sad to say. This is for home use by the way. I think it's well over $6.00 a gallon delivered. I feel like I'm being robbed.

I have a parts comanche I keep across the street which, until now, has been driveable but apparently someone recently siphoned the fuel tank dry. When I went to start it, after a few attempts, I noticed no sound from the pump and checked to find no fuel at the rail. When I realized what had happened, I put 5 gallons of gas in the critter but still the pump is not running. The pump circuit is energized as far as the connection to the pump at the tank. I am guessing the pump may be stuck or damaged from running dry. Any quick fix suggestions?

With 100K on the clock the sensor is due for replacement. The sensor on mine is a titania sensor which regulates the reference voltage. It's performance can be observed by connecting to ground and the output under the vehicle at the O2 connection. I am not sure which years may have had this type of sensor.

Several years ago I checked the O2 sensor on my 88, 4L, by back probing the sensor with a high impedance VOM. Keep in mind the comanche uses a reference signal, +- 5 volts to the O2 sensor which regulates output voltage to be read by the ECM. It does not generate a signal like most O2 sensors.

How do you dial back the amount of fuel ?

For the record, my 88, 4L, 4x4, pewjoe, gets about 22 Hwy and 20 +- around town. I determine this by gallons used at each fillup. My odometer reads 3% under, I assume, due to the 235/15 tires rather than the original 225's. If we didn't have the ethanol, I think it would be much better. I should note too that I drive like a hypermiler.

Harbor Freight sells a complete kit of drain plug adapters for this purpose. Bought one for my Pukey several months ago. You may have to order as not all stores stock this item.

I have a similar problem with my 88 pioneer 4 liter. It's the servo for the electronic cruise control. If I turn off the cruise control on the turn signal mounted control, the noise stops immediately. I don't have the noise after every shut down even if the cruise is on. I am curious, by the way, of any others who have this system. It appears to be factory installed but I have never seen any reference to it in any of the repair manuals.

I should have been more clear in stating my problem. This is not an electric door lock but rather manual and the lock set and the inside rocker function fine. The problem was in the mechanism that is part of the striker latch. I have never seen before the kind of the brown sticky gunk that must have inhibited the mechanisms function. I can only think this was the cause of the problem and must have been due to weathering of the original lube that was used 24 years ago. I know I'm not the only one who's had this problem and want to give a heads up to the others out there.

OK, I think I have it working again. I soaked the incredibly sticky gunky lock mechanism for 2 days in the bottom of the parts washer, blew it out with air, sprayed it with aerosol grease and reinstalled it. It will still occassionally act up but if I snap the lock back and forth a time or two it works fine. If anyone else has this problem, it might be worth while trying to spray an aerosol solvent and lube into the latch as best you can and see if over time it may work itself back into the mechanism and hopefully better function. Removal of this latch is a pain in the Derriere and can stretch the vocabulary of the hobby mechanic.

After years of problems with my passenger door, on my 88 Pioneer, often refusing to unlock, I thought it time to fix the problem but I couldn't get the door opened to pull the panel. Finally after repeated attempts the lock released and I was able to open the door. After removing the actuator I could find nothing wrong but observed the mechanism to be badly soiled with sticky gunk which I assume to be old grease maybe mixed with years of comtaminants. Could this be the problem? Has anyone else had this happen or should I look toward another cause? All linkages seem fine and apparently the inside of this door has never been accessed before.

Run it as long as you can. The Fluid loss shouldn't hurt a thing. I replaced mine recently and it was one H of a job. I waited until the fluid loss was so bad it emptied the reservoir in less than an hour driving around town.

I had the same problem with my 88 Pioneer years ago. Had a friend who was good with a stick welder fire glue it back together in situ. I have not had a problem with it since. I would suggest taking the time to find someone who is a competent welder.

Purchase an 8 pt square socket.

I had a similar problem for years. The electric fan worked fine with the AC but, as it turned out, not with the thermostat. I finally got tired of the truck overheating when it sat at idle for extended periods and replaced the thermostatic fan clutch, thinking it was bad, with a straight non thermal viscous drive. This, of course, did not resolve the problem. It turns out the problem was due only to the fact that the male terminals on the relay were corroded. I would like to know if I should replace the fan drive with a new thermo drive. Like an idiot, I threw the old one away. I'm also curious to know how much power is wasted spinning a fan that's not needed. Any thoughts?