JOMJ87

They are LaBarron hood vents. I have them in several of my rigs. -"Lead_"I always have a set of vents for sale"_Follow Do you have some to part with. I would be intersted if so. Drop me a PM with a price shipped to 29152 if you do. Thanks alot Cole

Like Pong said earlier the do OK but they are ruff on the street if you don't care about that then they might work for you. The other complaint i heard about them was they didnt flex as well as others. Theres several lift kits for short arm setup but in the longarm department you get down to a few that really are for a MJ. I will try to get some links for you to look at later. Cole

Thats the reason I am stuck with 4.88s right now. I have a 44 rear but the stupid 30 front killed my choice of gears. I really need the mid 5s or low 6s to be happy. BUT my truck goes tops 40mph to and from work and right now it rarely see 55+ cause i have a car for that. EAGLE you have a PM Cole

No prob, i just wish i could have helped sooner. Cole

Well Since my truck is flat OD green you can't see it in the pics to weel so i am not bothering with posting any. I didnt work on it today and i have it to a point were i am not worried with it. Its no where near perfect but you don't notice it when you walk up. You now have to actually look for the dent and ruff spots. I am happy enough to call it done for now. I do appreciat the tips but i am not wanting it to be to pretty cause i will prob dent it again wheeling. Thank again Cole

Open the cover and if you see spider gears its open and if you see a bunch of clutch packs you have the trac lok Cole

don't the block temp sensor for the ECU cause a real rich idle if bad. I know on my 91 YJ MPI 2.5 motor it does but I'm not sure about your specific motor cause i am to stupid to remember right now. Cole

OK i just done all this research.. Bare with me here. ALL tanks are the same if the size is equal. The pumps are different BUT the will interchange. the sender or all the hardlines stuff is differnt on some tanks but the pump itself will swap between all of them (YJ XJ MJ and maybe even ZJ) I am running a YJ pump from a 91 on my MJ with my STcok pump and sender. Just use the part to bolt the pump on the sender off of the pump thats going in and that wil relocate the bolt hole to line up. Good luck and sorry i didnt see this post sooner. Cole

GOOD luck and i say that because it is tight in there. Pop off the cowl and theres everything crammed in a small area. I just looked mine over but i had to undo the conection to do some wire harness migration and it wasnt a area my hand like to fit into. Cole

JeepcoMJ I am thinking more and mroe our dents are very very similar. I have the same crease but as long as it gets kinda straight I'm fine with it. ANd Joe that is a real goos idea. I was think "how in the hell and i gonna hold and floor jack up in the area and pump it?" But that fixes that. Now i need to buy a baasket ball or football. Oh and the plunger came out first but i didnt get to try it since it gets dark when i get home from work. I will take pics tomm. and see if i can get it. If not OH WELL for now Cole

Just read what has been posted before then compare and study your brake lines and parts. It is simpler then you are thinking. Cole

Its called a track loc i beliefve. ANd i have it in mine. The rare part is them working for any time at all. Mine works sometimes but it like reverse better. Its not a true locker but more of a limited slip or posi. The don't brake per say but they just don't function anymore is what happens. You need to add the Limited slip (?Friction?) additive to you diff fluid also when you change you fluid. Its a little packet or bottle of a couple ounces for help wioth the clutch packs. Now that i have said that...This is the only Traction device i know of for a D44 in a MJ stock. SOmeone like Pete or eagel may know more then that. Cole

So what went down hill after that? I plan on doing mine without removing them. HE no longer has that at all. He dove nosed his rig. That is what i think he is referring to. Check his build thread out on this page and youll see what he is talking about. He only has a stock style hood and most the rest is gone. Cole

NHScrambler I can take the willys if you need me to :D :bowdown: Like to see some pics maybe in another thread. Cole

Hey guys I have some bad news. Last week while pulling form my drive my good friend backed into the MJ. The truck was on a incline and when i thru the clutch in it kept rolling and ripped his tail light out and did a good amount of damage on his car (his wifes car). Needless to say i now have a dent that I need to remove. Its abotu where Jeepcomj was hit but on the pass side. We are settleing without insurence involved do to our friendship and I'm a SAP :oops: . I will take a pic when it stops raining to show exactly what it looks like. QUESTION COMES HERE: Does anyone have any pointers on knocking a dent out? I can't get full access with a hammer without drilling holes in the bed to beat it out in the high spots. Not to concerned with it being back to a beautiful fender cause i had bent the lower portion wheeling and this is my Fun truck that if it aint pretty OH well i LOVE it. Thanks for any piointers and ill get pics tomm. Cole

Trying to shut it down last i heard. I am not sure whats up now. Cole

I was waiting for that PONG. And so it starts.... :popcorn: Cole

Oh BTW just in case you don't know the "arms" in question are your front control arms on your axle. Cole

A Atlas 2 is a really strong transfer case with all the good stuff. Pong is dead on though. If you arent going to be doing anything above mild wheeling i wouldnt worry with longarm casue your talking major $$$$ Just get a nice 5.5 or 6" Lift for the front but not from rustys and rough country is as it says a Ruff ride. As far as Terra low kit and the SYE its not needed period. They SYE issue can be solved with a Driveshaft the correct length. And a terra low is just a nice to have not a NEED. If you want a better crawl ratio in 4 low then yeah its nice but if you run 4.88 gears or even 4.56 depending on tire size with 35s the biggest you would be happy with 4X4 preformance I'm sure unless you do steep rocky trails where 1/4 MPH speed would help you make it thru then its something to look at. I know you said the usaul as far as wheeling but PONGs normal wheeling and your may be WAY way way different cause from what i have seen in the past year or so on here he don't take it easy. Would you consider what you do Moderate to easy as in 4X4 is not always required but is just a helping function??? If so the Standard short arm lift and extened D-shaft should be what you will need along with the gears you choose for you tire size. Good luck on your choince and i hope all That ^ helps some atleast. Cole

Well the rustys kit looks good on XJs cause thats what its made for. On a MJ you have to modify a lot of parts. The rock krawler looks decent though. Cole

Nope sorry I wasnt thinking. I am running a 91 MPI motor in mine now and the whole renix thing slipped my mind. But I'm sure they make them for renix i can look later for you. Cole

Yes the axles swap. The link goes into it all. With the strength I am not sure but i would think (yes thinking not knowing) That the CAD might be a little stronger because its kinda renforced per say with the sleeved area for the CAD but I'm not sure. That may be crappy steel. I would look into that swap or maybe even makeing a cable connection. I am homebrewing one right now to be installed when i throw my locker in but its not done. I can explain it and take some pics if you are looking to go that route. Cole

I don't know if i would bring the strength argument up on 44 vs 8.8. It could get ugly. Cue EAGLE and PONG :popcorn: J/k But that is a testy topic with alot of people. Cole

Something like this would be a waste of money. All of the 4.0 i have ever had took a while to start. Thats just the way they are theres nothing wrong with it and its not hurting anything. Its a computer thing on GMs and others. Thats the way the programming is in it so that it happens this way. To do a conversion you would have to have some kinda source to send a feed to the ECU to trick it into thinking its time to fire or one that olds the memory of where the engine stopped so it knows it can fire first shot. I don't see any issues with a long start. The only time it might be a concern is if you are tyring to get away really fast from something and that 3 seconds might cause you harm. I wouldnt worry with it other then maybe upgrading your ignition so that when it does fire it is good and strong. You can get High output coils from ebay for 30 bucks and they work awesome from the two i have seen in use. Then go to the auto store and get heavy duty distributor cap and rotor and maybe bigger wires. With the new coil you can run a .65 gap on the plugs. See link for details Cole http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Wrangler-Cherokee-45K-Volt-Ignition-Coil-Upgrade_W0QQitemZ250178195911QQihZ015QQcategoryZ33689QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Got 4.88s and 35s and i want mid 5s But i want mine to crawl. I don't do mud unless I'm bored but i do ride trails here and there but they are steep and ruff and sometimes not really a trail on Private land. I would say to go with 4.88s for full use of you truck street and all. I have had mine to 65 and cruised with a 4 banger and AX-5. I had 4.10s and they sucked IMO but again I have a 4 banger. If you are going to do gears i would make sure you do it right the first time. Take in to account how much street time it will see and what the top speed you will drive the MJ at. Gears arent cheap and installation isnt either. I think Eagle has figured the calculations for stock power with 35s and i think 4.88s were a little bit better then stock If it wasnt Eagle maybe Dirty was the one. I'm sure they will chime in to help you out. Cole