JOMJ87

OK so here we go. The blue bar is the bar you need to be worried with. The red area is where the prob will be created. Now stay with me. If you raise the truck and don't extend the bar the angle in the bars increases(red area) causeing the lower bar (green) to pull closer to the drivers side. Now that the angle is off you are messing up all the stuff on the lickage. since your tires are pulled further over towards so when you have straight tires the arm will not be staright and already be using up stroke for your right hand turn. Throw the MJ on some stand and go to adjusting and see if that don't fix the prob. If not then we now have more to explain. Hope this helps. Cole

Give me one min i will draw a pic and post it. Cole

Adjust the draglink and recheck it. You should be sitting right then. Both the above explanations are refering to the same thing. And if it wasnt adjusted when the truck was lifted then its way off and with the steering truly staright IE linkages and wheel the tires will point way to the left. Hope you get it right good luck. Cole

UPDATE::: I have a new to me 1991 motor in and the tranny with new clutch back in. Its been Hell the past 2 nights but i got in bolted up. I am looking to have the harness adapted tommorrow. Hopefully it will run if i can get the wires ran i need to. I may throw the dash in and the exhaust (well to the hollow cat) and drive it to work friday. All that will be left is making all the confort items work and the gauges if they don't get fixed with the harness. I got alot to do still but i think i can finish by next week. I am sick of not driving the beast around any so that ha to end soon. Here is my left to do list.... -Clutch line connection on slave cylinder -Bleed clutch -exauhst -rear D-shaft and front if i can get one made -wires for ignition, fuel, heater, and wipers since they were partially eliminated out of the harness with the change -headlight bezels and all the lights and grill -radiator -dash -radio rewire This is whats left for it to be done motor wise with the swap. I also need to finish tweaking the front axle pinion angle and get a D-shaft done up for the front. I may need new balljoints up front too. Theres alot of smaller projects that will need to be done before Late Oct early Nov. for the inagural run on the new D44 and Motor and 4.88s. Then to tellico in the early part of the year. Luckily a buddy is headed over the ocean so i get to whatch his 06 Titan and he agreed to me using it as a tow rig so long as the i put a lift on for him. Sounds great to me so we will see how the next few days flow. Cole

But thats how the first jeep became a consumor vehicle originally. So now that its being made we might see it go to a lighter duty civilian version. Hell they can't say its not feasible to make cause they are already making. The only issue is going to be competition with the dakota?? We now have a little hope guys Cole

:agree: with dirty. Try to tie it in to the frame somehow. I like the look of one that goes over the wheelwells but that is me. Also make it so that the upper portion in the front is the same width as the bed then notches inward to attach so that it looks like it fits the truck better. Really you should probably go outside with some PVC or something and semi layout portion to your liking then take those ideas to the guy. Take plenty of pics I would really like to see the finished product. Cole

I got a hat thats atleast 7 years old. Its stapled and taped and stitched together. IT has been thru alot and sometimes i still have to wear it just for old time sake. Its sorta just on a shelf sitting there 99% of the time cause i can't bring myself to throw it away. Cole

Yes that was one thing i woudlnt leave out. It helps strengthen the plate. Cole

I realize the MUTT wasnt a "Jeep" But to the military it was called a Jeep. That what i was trying to point out. Cole

Dans is right.. That is the old style Dodge Ram hood ornament. that why it looks stupid. Maybe he has a Hemi :D Cole

Jeepcomj I am not certain but i don't think he was saying you but i may be wrong on this one. I just think it should be dropped and move on. It just seems like a petty thing to keep bickering about. we all have problems with certain things that others don't plus its not that big of a deal soemone just wanted to vent not start a Comanche lub fued over shipping charges and problems. Everyone needs to vent and some feel like the guys on here are family and friends they can vent to. SO again I think it shoudl just bve dropped. Cole

Mine went threw ALOT of tellico and alot fo back woods trails. I have also flogged it thru mud and all over red clay hills. I have even ran it up a homemade RTI ramp and then used forklifts to lift 2 tires (LF-RR) and again no problems. I will safely say it will last and do well for a moderate wheeler. Good luck guys Cole

mjstiltheydie, I don't think anyone is saying he isnt smart for wanting a stiff ride i think what eveyrone is trying to get across is his reasoning could use a little work. MY OPINION is leaves work great for someone who wants to haul a bunch of tools and heavy loads. They also are simple and function fine for most if nto all DDs. I prob will never change my rear leaves to a link setup casue it works for my wheeling and DD MJ. Now i will say i am looking to further modify them so that the ride smoother and softer which in turn will help articulation. As far as going J-20 I really don't see the need for it on this aplication. I knwo they are stiffer and can carry more wieght but why not buy the MJ metric tonn leaves and call it good. Or even buy a helper spring that full length. Now with the front I will say it is going to be ruff. But with that said its free lift. you got the parts to do it at no cost so if you don't like it thers no loss. I say you have a good plan for a cheap budget lift. But if you plan to do any ROCKCRAWLING (mud is diff) then you might need a change of equipment up front. with mud if the leaves arent stiff enough out back then you WILL have axle wrap problems thus making your comment about J-20 leaves Feasible and a decent way to look at it. But for less work i would go for a helper spring or the metric tonn leaves. Pklus i think you can get the Metric ton ones online NEW which is another good thing. Good luck with it all and just go for it. Cole

You know if you turn it down in abotu 2 months you will be crying in the bathroom with a bottle of jack in your hand :beerhead: :cry: :wall: Just do it and don't look back. You have tio give the old Varmit another try. OH and with the money you save you can get 4.88s for it. :brows: Since you are pretty much making money from buying it for less then you sold it. can't pass up free money. 8) Cole :popcorn:

Awesome views you got there. Not hardcore but just great country to visit. Love em Cole

I forgot to mention that mine werent cut and don't need to be. I know someone mentioned they had to cut theres but i don't see why. They may have done it differently. This is by far the easiest and cheapest way if you have good shocks now. and like i said before I hit bump stops before they bottom out and i have 0 issues flexing with them. Cole

:agree: Oizarod is right on with that post.This crap hasnt been happining and it don't need to start. This political debate over crap that we can't control is nothing to argue over. This wasnt going on until now and it needs to stop. I have only once seen a thread that was in jeopardy of flaming up and it was stopped before hand by grown adults who realized it was stupid to argue about. Obviously some people have issues with shipping thru UPS and some others have the opinion that its not UPS's fault. Well thats great we see your views so why keep going back and forth making it a big deal. It is nothing to create animosity over. Let it go and move on your points have been made. Cole

From the back facing to the front. Hope that helps but if you have questions just ask. Cole

http://www.civilianjeeps.com/ Just found this for more info. My original post was from a Senior project paper i done in 2004. Hopefully it was very accurate but some of the info may be mistaken from the articles i used for sources. It was 6 pages long so i took out the stuff that pertained to this diccusion (kinda). Cole :EDIT: Look at the roster of jeeps that website owns. Thats a gold mine.

I forgot to mention the first civilian Jeep was sold for $1,090 and 46.53 sales tax. I wish that price that low would have lasted. Cole

Well technically All the original military "Jeeps" were jeeps even though they were made by Different people. The didnt become seperate until late 40s and they were made by 3 companies for the military (Bantam, Ford and Willys-Overland). Willys Was who came out with the civilian Jeep that started our madness and adictions. Thru the years willys then Kaiser then AMC then Chrysler owned Jeep and every one of them had there own versions of what they thought it should be but the one thing the all kept was the M-series,CJ,YJ,TJ,JK design that was very similar and very little changed as far as looks. :papers: Well i got carried away but theres a smal history lesson. Even the Ford MUTT was a Jeep technically and it had independent IIRC. Hell the Humvee is Indepent and it was the upgrade from the Jeep. OK ok ok Ill step down. Cole

ill grab them and post in a few for you. Cole

i think pete done a good write up on it in another thread on this topic. I had mentioned in it using the stock plate and flipping it over and swapping sides with it. It worked good and i have 0 bind issues and i havent had them bottom or over extend at flex. I can take pics if you would like. Cole

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1217&highlight=tube+doors here's mine i made up and a write up to go with. I can answer any questions. I have a design for the latch but i am in to deep with a motor swap right now to finish it out. Hope it helps Cole

Anyone with a FSM can you see if there is a diagram of the junction block on the drivers side of the fire wall. Is the junction for the harness to run to the fuse block. Thanks Cole