jeepmjga

Closing on a new place in October and will finally have a nice size shop/garage to work out of! Was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for A/C and heat. The shop is concrete block walls with a couple of windows and an actual attic space. Was thinking of just going with a Mr. Cool mini split but was also looking at a couple window units. Mini split installation shouldn't be a problem as far as wiring and plumbing, there is a sub panel in the shop. I guess my question is, is it worth the extra money and does anyone have any experience/tips? Thanks!

Looking for either axle or a pair with 4.10's, really just looking for the housings with gears in them, don't necessarily need the complete axles as I plan on swapping all the parts over from my current set up. Front can even be without knuckles. Anywhere near the Atlanta area, willing to drive a little bit. Send PM If you have any info, thanks for looking!

Looks awesome man, jealous of those dana 44's!

Another small update, FINALLY got these courtesy lights working for both doors. Apparently there was two different connectors in the little hole where the door switch goes in and it was plugged into the wrong one on the drivers side. I got the lights out of a VW Jetta at a junkyard for like five bucks. They snap right into the hole and have 3 positions as well. If you grab a pair just make sure you get the VW plug and then just wire it up to the existing wiring.

Well took it out to the mulch pile at the park for some poser pics. I think its going to be a nice smooth ride off road, flexes pretty decent, only rubs the flares at full stuff so thats cool too. Can't wait to get it to the mountains!

Yea its been frustrating trying to track it down. Got all new wheel bearings/hubs all around, new ujoints everywhere, and just swapped in an AX/231 combo, so I guess Ive got it narrowed down. I can hear it somewhere in that pass side tube and in the carrier when I have the wheel off the ground and spinning it. Guessing its gotta be the carrier bearings but they didn't appear to be in bad shape when I pulled everything. On the hunt for a 30/35 set with factory 4.10's now. Figure that is prob the cheapest/easiest option for get closer to proper gearing since I don't know squat about setting up new gears. Its not 4.56s but better than the 3.07s I have now.

Yea thats what I thought. I guess I'll just open everything up and take another look at the carrier bearings and everything and see whats up. Thanks for the info.

Well, got the AX in and it shifts nice and smooth. I wrote up the removal process, I guess I can call that part 1, I'll put a link down below. Swap was relatively straight forward with all the correct parts. Ran into some small nuisances but nothing catastrophic. I guess next on the list is the hunt for a pair of 4.10 axles to swap under. Still having some issues with the ball joints and am kind of over it so the search begins. Also need to get a new exhaust manifold so will be doing some research on that. On another note, hopefully closing on a new house with a sweet detached shop in the back so looking forward to working inside again haha. Will try and get a write up for the install soon, cheers! Peugeot BA 10/5 to AX-15 swap Part 1 https://docs.google.com/document/d/14Z_duDy8Ot90BYCX-pOw5qqPS71E-WqrBOsWpvMAAbc/edit?usp=sharing PS - If this link doesn't work someone let me know and I'll see if I can upload it somewhere or something.

Anyone bothered to do this? I did the delete with a 97 shaft and everything and am getting a noise from that side of the axle that I think might be the shaft just barely contacting that inner bearing. When I pulled the guts out of the pumpkin everything looked good as far as carrier bearings and everything else. Just wondering which direction that bearing needs to come out. Eventually will be swapping to a d30 with 4.10's but would like this noise to go away for the time being.

Will that front bolt not come out with a BFH and some WD 40 or PB? If I remember right a 3/8" socket extension is about the same diameter as the bolt. I was able to at least break it loose using the breaker bar to turn it if that makes sense.

Well I think the input shaft bearing or something else is on its way out in the BA10, so I acquired an AX15 (thank you Scaleless and PeteM). Out with the old, in with the new(ish) I guess. AX is from a 90 so hoping it will just bolt right up. Got the BA out yesterday and the AX all cleaned up the other day. Have a trip coming up next week but stay tuned for a write up on the swap after I am done...

My AX clutch kit came with both size pilot bearings when I ordered. So that other is just the size you aren't using. Also the tip about being able to spin the shafts to align the splines is a huge help when lining up the trans. What kind of jack are you using? If you did CAD delete on your d30 there is a good write up in the DIY section (its the budget garage writeup) to change that vacuum switch to an actual electric switch so your 4wd lights will still work.

Worst comes to worst you can just snag a set of matching knuckles from a junkyard. If you have time to wait I can see whats left of the 95 XJ at the pull a part by me but I prob can't get over there til next week. Not sure if those knuckles will work but there are also a ton of ZJ's at the yard by me as well. A little easier than grabbing the whole axle.

Indeed, I'm 39 and pretty active but I was still feeling it the next day haha. Its definitely a tight fit and weird angle under there.

Any progress is good progress!

I just recently did this. Like has been said start soaking things in pb blaster or equivalent a few days before, and make sure you have a good set of flare wrenches for the lines. They strip easily. Be sure you have plenty of fluid on hand for bleeding after you hook everything back up. I went ahead and bench bled the new master or or you can gravity bleed it, before you start taking things apart. I used this video for reference... Anyone feel free to chime in or correct me on this process... Start by removing brake lines from master cylinder. There should be two and they are different sizes. Next remove the two nuts holding the MC to the booster and pull the master off of the booster. Moving on to the booster...first you will want to go in the cab and remove the nut holding the booster rod to the brake pedal. It should slide off of the holding pin and you will have a loose pedal. There will be 4 nuts holding the booster to the firewall. Remove these and the booster should come free. Installation is the opposite of removal, fairly straight forward. After you reinstall, double check your master for air, then follow the correct bleed procedure as referenced in the DIY section. I had a little trouble lining the booster up when reinstalling but if you fiddle with it enough the holes will line up.

Maybe try just using a 4 lb instead of ball joint press. They should slide right in. Whats your process? This guy has a good vid if have a bench vise. A little messy as far as needle bearings go.

Ok well solved (thank you scaleless). The little arm was on top of the throttle control so the sensor wasnt moving with the throttle. Guess I needed a break more than I thought 🤦 thanks for the help everyone.

No worries, yes leaving them plugged in. I will try the EGR thing tomorrow its just the output volts that is throwing me off.

Yes EGR is still installed, haven't gotten around to messing with it yet.

Well I adjusted it completely one way or the other and still no change. Also if I sit at a constant throttle (say 1500 rpm) the throttle will drop about 500 rpm without me moving my foot at all. Also should mention did cruiser's tips as far as ground refreshing and moved the blower ground as well. Have NOT added the two extra grounds yet, but that is on the list. Also should mention just put in new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, ign coil and MAP sensor, but the problem was happening before all that went in.

Ok I stupidly had the range setting wrong, but I'm getting 4.91 as ref volts, but still zero reading when i test for output. Same thing on new tps sensor.

Hey all, done my due diligence trying to figure this one out but I'm stumped. Whenever I get on the throttle above say 1k or so rpms and let off (such as coming to a stop light) the truck stalls or drops RPM down to almost stall. Replaced IAC and tried testing the TPS, but I am getting zero readings out of the TPS. Key in ON position, Probing B and pos lead in A, reading .0L, same when trying to test pos lead in C. Tried a new TPS, same thing happened. I don't know where to go from here. As far as when I'm back probing I am sticking the needles in as far as they will go. Throttle body is clean as a whistle as well, and no vacuum leaks that I can see. I can literally unplug the TPS while the truck is running and nothing changes. Am I testing the TPS wrong? Any ideas?

Man that is one fresh looking truck! Love those stripes and wheels, really completes that retro look.

Not absolutely sure but I can also confirm I had a 92 XJ and they were welded on, sounds like maybe 91 is when they changed over.