Incommando

You can get cheap little perches from Jegs, Summit, etc.... Look under their Mopar section http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4120074/10002/-1 You can get high quality perches from Barnes4x4 or RuffStuff for a few bucks more. SUA http://www.barnes4wd.com/Spring-Under-Perch-Pair_p_309.html SOA http://www.barnes4wd.com/Anti-Wrap-Leaf-Spring-Perch-Pair-30-Axle-Tube-25-Wide-Leaf-Spring_p_88.html You need a 3" tube cut out for an 8.25.

It changed after the MJ years as they used roller bearings the entire run. I do not recall off of the top of my head when the 2wd XJ's went to a unit bearing.

The 2wd's do not use the same rotors. Where the 4x4's used a unit bearing the 2wd's used a classic two roller bearing on a spindle set up.

Did you have to Google that too? :)

When I revamped my MJ I replaced every hard line. I bought a coil of brake line and with the fittings it was about $30 to do this. As you said: cheap insurance

And that would be the guy who thinks there is an early and late TJ and that an optional wheel size change lug patterns...

I keep forgetting that not everyone lives where rust makes replacement a good policy.

Great. Can't wait to see some more pics of it. If you ever get the bug the conversion to 4x4 is fairly cheap and pretty easy... :brows:

That is over 3x what it is worth. A member here just sold a clean '92, which is a much more desirable year for many, with a 4.0, 5spd, 4x4, lifted, and daily driver capable for $2,500. Jim is on Colorado and has bought/sold more Comanches than you have ever seen. So his estimate is pretty sound for that area. I paid $400 for a complete running daily driver capable '91 with a 4.0/auto but 2wd and some body issues. I have much less then what your buddy is trying to bone you fo..., er, sell it to you for as it sits now including the 4x4 conversion:

Those are niyfy and light weight. Heck I could tow one for me and the misses with the Patriot

http://comancheclub.com/topic/11127-abandoning-load-sensor-dingy/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/22882-plug-for-the-prop-valve-outlet/#p250570 http://comancheclub.com/topic/4695-mj-to-xj-pop-valve/ It can be as simple as running a new line from the distribution block in front to the soft line connection in the rear and plugging the now extra port in the block.

If your asking if a 3" lift set will equal the specs of the factory stock standard spec spring set the answer is that they probably will with a quality spring. If you are asking if that set will offer the same capacity as a set spec'd specifically designed to increase cargo carrying capacity then the answer is no. The question is probably whether the stock springs have been adequate for your use in the past? Will the generally harsher ride with unladen HD springs be worth it for the times you do tow/haul? Personally the stock spec lift springs would be my choice. They would level the truck's stance and even with the metric tonne springs you are still missing all of the other pieces of either that or the towing package anyway.

Of course it is not the same thing. All MJ's ARE Comanches where as you state all Wranglers are not TJ's. You can use TJ to refers to a 2006 Wrangler but not a 1995 or 2014 Wrangler. You can use MJ & Comanche interchangeably for the entire production run.

Derp

As Stated above......my YJ is a wrangler......as is a new JK......to clear it up for you when I replied to the original post I should have written: YJ XJ Older TJ ( I don't know if they continued to use the 4.5 x 5 pattern when they started offering 16" wheels in later years)......Gooogle is your best friend Too bad I didn't quote your first version- but from after the edit: if your contention is that a TJ is old before the 16" wheel option ( 16's were never standard but an option or part of a package) and new after why would on optional tire size indicate a new pattern and why would such a minor change merit a "new" designation? It wouldn't but sometimes when backpedaling any straw appears large. There would be no need to clear anything up for anyone if you knew what you were talking about in the first place instead of creating mythical TJ model breaks were none exist. Google is the friend of those who do not know what they are talking about. Memory is the friend of those of us who do

Then what is the difference between an"older" TJ and a "newer" TJ? The TJ had a relatively short run with no real changes. What is the dividing line between your mythical definitions? Did your google give you a breakdown of the old and new versions of the same vehicle? See below for the revised response to the edited post above

Around here such an 8.8 goes for around $125-$150. The typical 8.8 swap here is around $350-$400 when you are done if you refresh the brakes at the same time. For the price of spring perches and an 8.25 you can have a rear that is ready to go. It may need a 1" shorter drive shaft. Get a pair perches for $20. The local price for an XJ 8.25 is about $100. If you or a buddy can weld you have a new & much stronger rear for $150 or so. Finding a bolt-in MJ D44 is difficult,expensive, and it gives you no advantage over an 8.25 in my mind and is considered weaker than an '97-up Explorer 8.8. The 8.8 gets you rear discs...although nice they are not a requirement. An MJ D44 will most likely be $400-$500. An XJ D44 is the same price and requires all of the same things to install as an 8.25.

i provided KJ wheel pics for his guide. The chart is fine except for the KK Liberty thing. That and you can can combine the Patriot and Compass under the MK platform. Both had the same wheel choices with base wheels being 16" and optional wheels at 17" & 18".

Never try to turn around if you can't make it up a hill. Back down in a controlled manner in low range. Wheel speed is your friend in deep mud. In a related topic if you need a mud terrain only a mud terrain will do. A/T's do not work in real mud. Google "bumping" up on an obstacle and watch some YouTube vids of it. This is an invaluable tool . Although balls to the wall sounds like fun in reality it generally just breaks stuff. 90% of the time slow & controlled is the way to go. Deep mud is an obvious exception. Know how deep that mud hole is or what is on the other side of that hill before you try it. Do not wheel alone. Not only does going with someone else make getting unstuck easier the simple fact is this sport can be dangerous or even deadly. Waiting for hours on a trail for someone to find you in your wrecked jeep can add to the lethality.

No version of the Libby is 5x5. I currently run 2005 KJ Liberty take-offs on my MJ and I replaced those steelies on my KJ with 2008 KK Liberty alloys. I don't know where that 5x5 rumor started but a quick trip over to tirerack.com, discount wheel warehouse.com, lostjeeps.com, jeep Kj country, or dozens of other sites will show it is false as well. I was trying to be funny with the "old"stuff. To many of us nothing made in the 90's can be called old..lol. BTW there was only 1 design of the TJ/TJU. It was built from '97-'06 and was 5x4.5 the entire run. It was replaced for '07 by the 5x5 JK. Both were called Wrangler. The previous Wrangler was the 5x4.5 '87-'95 YJ which replaced the 5x5.5 '45-'86 CJ. You might be using TJ when you mean Wrangler

Thank you Sir

Look into an XJ 8.25 or Explorer 8.8. XJ/MJ D44's are way over priced

That is good to hear

I had nearly pulled the stock driver's side TRE out of the stock sleeve when I bent it. I can't imagine the thinking behind shortening the assembly as RC did. I think you will find you have plenty of thread engagement should you go this route. :-)

Banshee: I have no bumpsteer or DW at any speed. You can travel over a pot-holed highway at 60 mph and control this truck with 1 finger on the wheel. If you are referring to the drag link to track bar angle you may be overlooking that the aftermarket bent track bars only follow the "keep them parallel" rule for the first few inches prior to the bend. Look the the relationship of these two components at the body side mount location to check how close they are. It would be impossible to retain that relationship through the bend. Those "everybody know that..." rules are only worthwhile if you know the whole rule and the exceptions to it...and even then "conventional wisdom" is often BS. If there is some other reason that you think something is wrong please bring it to may attention as it may be something that I overlooked.