Car RamRod

Amen. We've all learned that the hard way... especially with these trucks.

Sorry for your loss.

Assembled/painted front axle. Should get it in tomorrow. What a pain getting seals for an '86 d30.

Does he fetch specific sizes ..... My dumb dog keeps bringing me 1/2" when I ask for a 13mm. He's obviously just anticipating that you have to whack it onto a slightly stripped head.

Looks familiar:

I went with a "40/20/40" out of a 97 dakota extended cab. The center seat folds down into a console for 99.9% of my driving. For that .1% where I need to carry 2 people, I'm covered. Comfy seats too. I had to do some welding/fabrication to mount them.

I think I can speak for alot of guys when I say that of all the websites I'm on, this one has the absolute LEAST amount of drama. This is actually the first I've ever seen. Let's keep it that way, and talk about jeeps..... and beards.

Hey I'm having a little trouble locating a replacement for the passanger side axle seal (with disconnect). It seems like all of the write-ups are while converting to one piece axles which use a different seal. If anyone has a part number for that I'd appreciate it!

Continued with my front end rebuild on the d30. Hopefully will have the remaining parts needed tomorrow.

I don't post here alot, but I do use the search option a ton. It may not be as good as some other sites, but it gets the job done, especially if you have some patience. Like has been said, it's a fairly small website, but I've always gotten the best tech advice, from people who have done it themselves, share their info/experience and often link me to other sites. '' And no one likes internet drama, cut that out.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to look into those eliminators, hopefully they will give me what I need. Do you know how long the stock shock is, or what I should upgrade to if I decide to change shocks? (These are ~5 years old). Thanks

Sidepipes and stacks? Bitchin' Let's see some more pics!

A while back I installed 2" coil spacers in the front of my comanche to match the height of the back. Ever since then it's been tearing through the upper shock bushings in the front. Should I get longer/softer shocks for the front end? Sorry for the simple question, I've just never dealt with this before. Matt

I'm another for using legit paint in a real gun. It's costs a bit more, but let's be honest, where's the real cost here, 50-150 dollars in paint, or all the hours of repair/prep work. I've used rustoleum in a spray gun with good results. For ~75 dollars you can get Nason acrylic enamel and the appropriate thinner and have a good, tough paint job. I've done alot of work with Dupont Centari and had great results (shine, toughness, longevity). That's around 150 all said and done. The prices fluctuate based on color, but that's what I'm paying here in the city, probably less for you.

Wow, looks like I'll just be changing all the seals on the front axle. Yup.

I'm leaking gear oil from the passanger side on my d30. I searched and it seems for the driver's side you need to pull the differential, but what about the pass. side? I'm gonna change the seal, bearing and u-joint while I'm there. Anything else I should hit? Thanks

that is sharp looking, but I'd be afraid to really load it. Especially foward of the rear end.

Awesome, thanks for the help. I just couldn't find anything when searching. Sorry I should have specified, it's a 4.0 swap. I was thinking the IAC was a likely culprit. Vacuum is very steady as it is. As for injectors I think I'm sold on the precision flow set.

I have a few things I'd like to do with my truck, but could use some help planning before I jump into it. The truck is an 86 mj with a renix 4.0/ba10 installed, 4wd. I have a non a/c truck, and I'd like to move the alternator up to where the a/c compressor would be. Is this something that is commonly done? Any write-ups? I also want to put in a new set of injectors, what brand is popular for replacement? My last issue is a very random high-idle situation. It's not a sticky throttle cable as the tb physically returns to idle, but the engine still idles high. Like I said, it's very random, anywhere from 1200-2800rpm, 15 seconds to over a minute. Any bright ideas on what to look at first? Thanks for the help, Matt

8.8's come in a 3.08 ratio

using grease accomplishes two things. It is sticky so it holds the o-ring in place while you're lining everything up, but it also works as a lubricant so while you're tightening the locking ring, the o-ring doesn't get snagged, distorted, or even ripped by the lock ring. I would definitely look there; not too many other places to have a big time leak. Good luck.

Just to close this thread off, this ended up being a "good" problem. The whole harness had wiggled it's way under the bed crossmember and was all chewed up. I cut the harness and ran new wires to the tail light, and I branched off and wired in a trailer light receptacle like I've been wanting to do for some time. Here's some pictures:

Thanks for the suggestions. It ended up being chaffed about a foot foward of the rear plugs, where the harness goes between the bed and the frame rail. A few wires were damaged and ready to break so this is kind of a blessing in disguise. Gonna fix it up and wire in a trailer light plug tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

Having a little trouble with my tail lights. Everything worked fine until a few days ago, then I noticed my running lights in the back weren't working. Brake lights, reverse lights, signals, 4-ways, front running lights, head lights all still work fine. It's just the rear running lamps that don't come on. I checked the fuse, the bulbs, and the ground strap, all are fine. There's no power at the plug in the rear when I have just headlights on. Any thoughts on what to do next? Thanks!

I was in the same boat as you a few years ago. I found an mj locally with a renix 4.0 and a five speed. The engine was just so I had to go for a reman, but everything else was a home run, it just took alot of time. The added power, driveabilitly, mileage and reliability are well worth it.