BizarroStormy

Why are you moving over the transmission? Maybe I am ignorant of something, but they should both be AW4s so you can just move over the transfer case from the 91.

Do I need to upgrade all my bulbs to LED or can it handle running incandescents too?

My transmission switch died a long time ago, I bypassed it, so I'm always in power mode now . I didn't notice it hunting for gears, seems to just go into 4 and stay there, but Florida is pretty flat. Thanks guys.

So can you tow with overdrive or is that just asking for trouble? Just towed my tiny aluminum boat, probably 1500 pounds total with the trailer, about 60 miles. It didn't want to go over 65 in overdrive but that was fine with me, but my father in law says some autos don't handle towing in OD and can burn up. Keeping it in 3rd had my RPS up around 4k which seems high. I have 31 inch tires, a 4.11 diff, and a really big transmission cooler (almost the size of the AC condenser).

https://gainesville.craigslist.org/cto/d/gainesville-jeep-cherokee-truck-1991/7591154494.html Part of me wants to pick this up, but I really don't need another project to store and I have no idea how hard it would be to get a title.

Thanks, I remember removing that when I first got the truck!

Here is a better picture.

Just pulled my dash to repair it and bedline my flooring. Putting it all back together now and can't figure out what this plug goes to.

I would definitely buy one! Only thing I feel my truck is missing.

I wouldn't trust temperature reading from a temp gun. They have to be calibrated for the material they are reading and shiny metal pieces like a water neck or radiator will always give you bad readings. Maybe you can attach a temp probe to the bottom of your pressure bottle. If you have the aluminum one from mac's that would be a very accurate reading.

That sounds normal to me (at least mine does that ). I'm pretty sure the idle air control solenoid opens up when starting to make it easier to start, then quickly cranks down to establish idle. Does your truck have a tach, what is it idling at in park after it warms up?

Quite the deal, I payed considerably more for EagleScout526 to find me one a while back. Really can't do better than Mopar on these, I went through every aftermarket option I could find. They would all eventually fail or start sticking causing a high idle.

No but I did notice a lot of grease and lube on the cam, so I cleaned all that off and replaced it with some valve lapping compound to get the lifters to break in faster. On a serious note, I drove it around some more yesterday and I think it might actually be driveline related, only seems to tick when under load. Stops ticking altogether when cruising at 65.

So I have about 150 miles on the ATK remanufactured engine I just put in. I have noticed a ticking noise from about 1500 rpm to 3000 rpm, I can hear it a little below 1500 but not very noticeable and it goes away completely at high rpm. Kind of sounds like it is valve related to my not expert ears and it doesn't sound like it would be happening on more than one cylinder due to the frequency. Currently running royal purple break-in oil. Any ideas?

The Bosch injectors are the way to go. I used these and my truck runs great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/200902253274

Lol you got me, thanks for the info!

So I'm on the last leg of installing my reman engine and I found this two prong wire coming out of my transmission, drivers side. I don't see any provision for it in my harness (unless I am missing it). Any ideas?

I used these, had to bend the tabs on the mount a little bit to get them to fit. https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/product/Q8496P-2DR-BI.html They work great, got into a low speed crash and they locked right up, saving me from going into my steering wheel.

Cooling system sealer does seem plausible, they look very similar to pictures online. Consistency is a finer than sand power that crumbles very easily. Why would they put that in a new engine?

So when moving over the temp sensor to my new ATK block I found this dirt? Should I be worried?

I had that issue with the wipers just being on-off with no return to home. For me it was the fingers in the gearbox (attached to the cover), make sure they make contact with the electrical contact points on the big gear and put a little silicone grease there to keep them clean.

You might have moved the little fingers in the gear box that tell the delay module that it completed a cycle. Did you pull rotor out of the motor and clean and grease those bushings?

I had a similar problem, open it up, pull it completely apart, clean everything and put a lot of grease in all bushings and gears, it is the only way. Jhook arms help a bit too, it will never be as fast as a modern wiper system but you can make it functional. This was on a "remanufactured" motor too, they just spray paint them and call it done.

Surprising results for the compression tests, 120 - 135 on all cylinders cold. Don't have the tools for a leak down test so I guess I will never know. Maybe tolerances loosen up when it gets hot? Found some serious white buildup on my #1 spark plug, and light buildup on the rest. Only thing I could think that caused that was my throttle position sensor was broken/stuck for the better part of a year (minimal driving) which caused the computer to try and run the engine WOT when the throttle was closed. So looks like new wires and plugs for the new engine. Rotor cap and coil are already newish (2 years old). Good call on the CPS mine is a bit crusty from close encounters with the exhaust manifold.