BizarroStormy

Make sure your throttle position sensor is not binding, that will cause your computer to open your idle air control valve all the way up.

That kit worked great, don't have the impossible to find hose anymore. The new dryer kind of points the line that goes to the condenser towards the battery tray. So there was a minor interference there but I was able to massage it into place.

That hard line did not work out, had to use part of the brass valve for it to fit at all and it didn't really want to go in. Don't think it is actually a No 6 fitting just very close. Getting the bend right was also basically impossible. I think I found a solution though https://jeepair.com/products/1987-1990-cherokee-4-0l-quick-disconnect-eliminator-kit?variant=41425272602821 is a kit specifically designed to replace this weird line. I should be getting it in the mail this weekend.

Think this would work? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-12524-vcl

Anyone have a part number or link to the replacement double no 6 hose that can replace the brass valve on the dryer?

So I mangled my liquid line (between dryer and expansion valve) when I replaced my engine a couple years ago and it won't hold pressure anymore. I am looking for a replacement but I am coming up empty. Jeep air has been out of stock every time I check. https://jeepair.com/collections/liquid-lines/products/cherokee-liquid-line-drier-to-evaporator I think the part number is 56002731, anyone know where I can get one?

He was helping people to his very last day, what a legend! I know my truck would not be running now without his help. We have lost someone very special.

He was helping people to his very last day, what a legend! I know my truck would not be running now without his help. We have lost someone very special.

I did try to clean them up with sand paper and contact cleaner. The potting was cracking on the bottom, so I think the original just went bad.

Got a Duralas one, I don't know how good it really is but my truck runs now. Looked identical to the original other than the potting material was translucent on the bottom.

So I finally fixed my issue after my truck sat for about 9 months. In the end it was the ignition control module. I figured that out after replacing the flex plate, crank position sensor, doing the cruiser crank position sensor mod to increase voltage, and the coil. Jeeps are fun.

Wish I could go get some parts but my truck is in pieces lol. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/inventory/gainesville-1224/1988-jeep-comanche/

Haven't checked spark, but I shouldn't be getting any if the CPS is not reading. I have been checking the voltage directly from the CPS unplugged so wiring is not the cause of the low voltage, I have replaced the wiring harness plug with a new one though. Have a NTK sensor coming in today, if that doesn't work I will try the boring out trick that I missed on Cruiser's site. Fuel is fine, 35lbs.

Second replacement CPS, this one reads .33v which is lower than what is should be. Still no start. Is there any way to adjust these so they are closer to the flex plate? Are all aftermarket CPS's garbage?

Replaced my CPS, still no start. New one is worse than the one it replaced, only reads .25v while cranking. Think I got a dud or could my flex plate be defective? I had the trans off the engine last year and the plate looked fine other than some slightly damaged teeth. New pressure regulator seems to have helped, reading 35psi now.

Got nowhere near 39, maybe 35 for a second. Noticed it was leaking down slowly after the prime. Just ordered a new pressure regulator, hopefully it isn't the pump as that would be super annoying to replace.

Think I found my issue. I connected my REMII and it said it had a CPS fault. I put my multi-meter in the plug and I am getting .33v AC. According to Cruiser's site anything under .35 can cause a no-start.

Just went out to check on the pressure, it goes to 30 when priming and stays there when running. But it just died again while idling, pressure is still good. So it must be something else.

So my Comanche left me stranded for the first time since I got it last week. Was running down the road to pickup lunch and it died after going about 2 miles. No sputtering, no struggling, it just quietly shutoff the engine. I did my normal figuring out why my jeep won't run routine, checked that no wires or hoses shook loose, and checked that fuel was in the rail. Fuel pressure seemed low to me, as not as much as normal shot out all over the place. It would turn over just fine, maybe sound like 1 cylinder would fire then just nothing. So I assumed it was low fuel pressure, bad pump or regulator, got a pressure gauge and tested it today after charging my battery. Pressure read 31 psi and it started right up. I don't think it was a bad battery because I cranked it a lot when I died, probably 2 or 3 minutes of cranking in total while trying to restart it on the side of the road. I couldn't really hear the pump priming on the side of the road but it was super loud with all the cars going by, but I can hear the pump now in my driveway. Also, I have done all of Cruiser's tips over the years, not to say something couldn't break or degrade in that time. I replaced the fuel pump when I got the truck in 2019, think it could be a dying pump? or am I missing something obvious? What should I check first? Really hate that I can't trust my truck now.

Those are some really good pictures, going to model one up and 3d print it this weekend. Haven't had a latch on my truck since I got it.

Somewhat related question, when it comes to pressures, can we use the old R12 values to determine charge health when using R-134a?

Watched your video and it was interesting that it didn't die the second time you gave it gas. All my random no start or rough running issues, usually involved bad electrical connection to the CPS, shaking from the engine would cause it to come loose or ground itself. I know you said you replaced it but check the connector on the harness side, also pull back the loom around your harness and look for shoddy fixes by previous owners. Another thing to check is to verify that the CPS is routed properly and away from the hot exhaust manifold, if you look at cruiser's website you can see that you route it all the way to the other side of the engine. https://cruiser54.com/?p=50

Just the information I was looking for, Thanks!

I was wondering if anyone had a part number or pug type for the female (wiring harness side) plug for the crankshaft sensor. Mine has been having intermittent connection issues and I would like to replace it. I also need to replace them male connector for my MAP sensor if anyone knows that as well.

I am using this super cheap three row all aluminum radiator off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVC0SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Seems to work as good as the copper/brass one it replaced. Only downside I have experienced with it is the tiny mounting screws on the top are also aluminum so super easy to break. Fit with my stock fan.