BizarroStormy

I know it is bad rings/cylinders the crank case is highly pressurized it even blows oil out the dipstick at times, this thing has 225k miles and was absolutely abused by previous owners. The amount of sludge and garbage I found in the oil pan and pickup was absurd. The engine feels anemic even after I re-geared to 4.56. I will check compression numbers for everyone's curiosity when I get home, but I have already ordered a new engine from JEGS.

Just replaced my rear main seal and it never drips a drop on my driveway. Blue smoke has started to come out the back on hard acceleration. I have ridiculous amounts of blow-by and my air filter is soaked.

I finally decided to bite the bullet and replace my engine due to it suddenly consuming a lot of oil (3 quarts every month of daily driving). I am planning on painting the engine bay, replacing the water pump, and replacing the outer seals on my transmission. I was wondering if there was anything else I should replace or do while the engine is out?

So I'm thinking about getting a junkyard AW4 and rebuilding it so I can still use my truck while taking my time on the rebuild. Will a later model AW4 work on my 88 without issue? Will a tranny from a 4x2 Cherokee bolt up fine to my transfer case? Any suggestions for sourcing a rebuild kit? Thanks

So I broke the little nipple/connector off the back of one of my nozzles. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?

I just used these parts (well quite similar, used 100lb struts and 90 degree ball studs) turned out really well and holds my hood higher than the stick. Got pretty close to my washer fluid reservoir could have put it a little farther out.

I have actually had the cover off recently because I have an aftermarket aluminum cover and the spring retainers used to hit it until I ground some clearance into the side of it. I checked the rockers by hand and they felt secure. But I'm not opposed to pulling the cover again to see if I need to grind more. I will run my torque wrench over the bolts to ensure they are secure.

My valves used to clatter all the time when I first got the truck. I add Sea Foam to the oil before I do an oil change to help clean out old sludge and now it only clatters when very hot.

So my jeep is currently running royal purple 10W30 and it runs great until it has fully heated up after an hour of street driving. At that point the valves start to clatter and my oil pressure drops to about 20psi idle, 38ish when flooring it. The engine has 223k miles on it so I was thinking of putting in an oil with a higher hot viscosity and the highest I could find on amazon with a 10 base weight was Liqui Moly 10W60. I figure it should still work fine because it starts at a 10 weight which my truck likes and should stay closer to its original viscosity when it gets hot due to the high temperature modifiers. It looks like it is mostly used in motorcycles and high mileage BMWs. So what do you guys think? Would this cause engine damage or would this solve all my problems?

Mossmj13 just sold me some, so I should be good now. Thanks everyone

That goes to your MAP sensor, very important for your computer to control your engine. Look at Cruiser's tip #31 to replace this weak connection with an improved one. http://cruiser54.com/?p=280

Do you think the passenger side rail is the same as the drivers side? I only have the passenger side but it looks pretty similar on each side.

I would prefer black but can always paint the chrome.

So I have still been dealing with this issue semi randomly and I have finally found the true cause. I replaced the throttle position sensor with a cheap one off Amazon a while ago trying to fix my issue. I noticed a few days ago when trying to diagnose the idle issue that the sensor was stuck. Turns out I had it too tight and it melted a little. So when the throttle body would heat up it would expand and make contact with the bolt on the sensors arm and bind it up. I pulled the arm back into the closed position and my idle immediately dropped to normal. I have since replaced it with a standard motor products one and it has been running great ever since.

I am looking for drip rail covers, just need the drivers side as mine is broken. But will buy both if they are in good shape or if you would prefer to sell as a set.

I'm relatively sure it is the transmission, it was about 3 quarts low when I noticed it starting to shift poorly. After adding more fluid it leaked a lot more.

Awesome, thanks guys.

So it looks like the seal between the back of my transmission and my transfer case is leaking pretty badly. Usually leaves a dinner plate sized pool of ATF on the floor over night. How hard is it to replace that seal? Will I have to drop the transmission? If I have to drop the transmission should I have it rebuilt (223k miles), seems to shift fine when it has the proper amount of ATF.

Epic foreshadowing! Figured I would follow up on this thread because the previous fix didn't completely resolve the issue and I wanted to document the final fix. The issue came back up after the engine got up to temp and I drove it a bit, the bolts kept getting loose. So I pulled off the manifolds, cleaned the intake and painted the exhaust, new gasket and bolts. But the idle issue manifested again this time after the engine would get up to temp then on second startup after it was warm would ramp up to 3k rpm. Ruled out a manifold leak by blocking off my throttle body, then determined the IAC valve was wide open by covering it with my thumb and the idle dropped to normal. Got a NOS IAC from eaglescout526 but that also didn't resolve the issue so I knew it was electrical. I had already cleaned my C101 connector but it was still very nasty so I decided to delete it as documented on Cruiser54's website. After deleting the connector the truck runs great, even after it gets up to temp and is restarted. Thanks for all the help and Cruiser54 for his great information.

Well I feel silly now. Woke up with fresh eyes and realized that I bumped this connector off this resistor. Runs just fine now!

I come to you again seeking the infinite wisdom of the forum. Backstory (how I broke it): I decided to replace my manifold gasket, studs, and bolts to resolve a reoccurring vacuum leak issue I was having and the truck was running before I took it apart. I cleaned up the intake, painted the exhaust, and re-wrapped the wire harness on that part of the motor. So in the process of doing that I removed every sensor to clean everything properly. What Is happening now: So it is all back together now and shiny but now my truck will only run for about 3 seconds at most. I checked the fuel line and it gets up to pressure but drops to zero as it is running then shuts down. It also seems like my fuel pump is not priming the line until the engine starts turning, pretty sure it would prime before if you turned the key part way. I have swapped out the fuel pump relay with my AC relay and checked the pressure valve (which looks very new) and it is not leaking. No fuel leaks anywhere that I can see. Any ideas?

https://gainesville.craigslist.org/cto/d/hawthorne-1979-j20-jeep/7225069716.html

I did most of 1-5 previously. I haven't checked all the grounds but everything seems to work now.

We have a winner! The rear bolts/nuts near the fire wall weren't even finger tight! So everyone saying manifold/vacuum leak = more fuel = higher RPM are correct. I could even see the ECU reporting the O2 sensor going lean/rich as the idle increased. So nice to have my truck back, time to go fishing! Thanks everyone for the advise.

Tried the new IAC today and same result. Any other ideas?