JustEmptyEveryPocket

True. Instead, you should shy away from them because of the lack of three pedals. Its a major manufacturing defect for sure.

I have to respectfully disagree here. From personal experience I know that a multimeter you can't trust is far worse. This would be the time to learn the lesson of "buy once, cry once." Get the GOOD tool (I recommend Fluke). Otherwise just make a bunch of testlights in different amp ratings and use that. Watch THIS VIDEO for a DIY version test light that is just awesome. That guy/channel is awesome for starting to learn stuff. I would recommend watching each and every video. He does a great job of explaining the thought process, the testing process, and what the results mean. Plus he has a lot of videos on reading wiring schematics and such, along with lots of nuts and bolts videos. This was where things starting to click for me, but YMMV. TL;DR: DO NOT waste money on a crappy multimeter. However, in the end, my advice is worth exactly what you are paying for it.

Time to learn how to google. That will return alot more information for you. Here's how I recommend you go about it: Go to google.com type in "site:comancheclub.com relay harness" and start reading the threads that show up. Vary your search string to get different results. For example, you might try headlight upgrade instead of relay harness. That should give you more threads where you can do more learning. The string site:comancheclub.com will limit all results to this domain. You can vary that part as well if you want to get results from say NAXJA or something else. Finally, don't forget about a Google Image search. If you want to see what a CJ shifter knob looks like and how people have adapted them, that would be a great way to approach it. In general I would recommend you do your own research first, then start a thread to ask follow-up questions. More positive interactions that way. From my experience, 90% of questions I have had have already been asked multiple times and can be found in threads with a bit of looking. Sometimes those threads even include the resolution! Good luck, and happy reading!

Huh, thats it? I figured it would be slightly more involved. Well cool, that should be easier than other things I have done. The engine doesn't worry me at all. At worst I have/ can easily get a replacement engine. To date I have done several transmission jobs on different jeeps and several engine swaps. Its simple enough work, just takes time to label everything and pull it apart correctly. My budget is ~$1200, which is close to what this XJ is priced at. Its also very close to me (middle of nowhere Missouri). While I appreciate your links I am not interested in any of those. This one is special in that its 4x4 with a 4 cylinder engine, and (most importantly) its still completely stock. The interior is in gorgeous condition, and the mileage is low. I looked at and knocked around on all the body panels and the unibody rails. Everything except the floor is in great shape. The doors have no sag and zero rust on them. My best guess is that the jeep leaks (which ones don't, ammiright?) and has sat most of its life in a driveway. So besides where the water pooled underneath the carpet things look great. I have been down the path of buying a rust free jeep that some guy "tinkered" on. I will NEVER EVER EVER go down that path again unless I plan to completely gut the jeep and redo things from top to bottom. How is it that everyone thinks they are an electrical genius who can run wires wherever they want, splice in whatever they want, use vampire clips everywhere, label nothing, and then think they did a great job even though most of it doesn't work? Not to mention the hack "lift kits" and wheel and tire combos I see. Nope, for me the fact its stock is worth some time and effort. Plus I get to learn about welding in floor pans, which is actually a positive. Thanks for the replies guys. If you can think of anything else, let me know.

I'm looking at buying a 1993, 4 cylinder, 4x4, manual, 2 door XJ. Overall its in great shape. Two issues that currently have me stumped though are The floor is rusted COMPLETELY out. Front to back. Are the 4 door replacement floor panels the same for the 2 door version? Or close enough to make it work at least. Also, is there a good manufacturer to go with? I would much prefer paying a few more dollars and having a simple weld in experience. This will be my first time welding in replacement floors so easy is good! The headliner is gone. Cloth and fiberglass backing piece both. Again, is this the same as a 4 door Cherokee? If so I have some parts XJs that I can pull from. Whats the best (ie: least damaging way) to pull out the entire headliner panel from an XJ? It also has some engine issues, but I think I can sort that out myself. Thanks for any thoughts, recommendations, and links.

For things like this, I highly recommend you do your own research. Start by going to google and typing in something like "site:comancheclub.com toppers" and reading. The site:comancheclub.com part of that search string will limit results to this website, meaning all the information should be good and directly applicable. Vary what threads come up by changing topper to any search parameters you want. Handy little nugget of knowledge to store away. Good luck and happy reading/ learning.

My next guess would be fuel. Put a gauge on the schrader valve and see what you get while cranking. In my experience the list of things that keep a truck from firing is pretty short. I would attack it in the following order: Spark - You state you have that. I would be tempted to triple check for spark at the end of a few plug wires. Pull a wire, put in a spare plug, ground it against the block and crank. Look for a bright blue spark. Adequate fuel - What I am suggesting you check next. Fuel pressure should be ~30psi. I suppose it could be a faulty injector. After trying to start normally, try to start it in clear flood mode. Press the gas pedal completely to the floor while cranking. This should turn off all your injectors allowing any excess fluid to get purged. See what happens. Adequate Fuel - Hillbilly style - Spray some brake clean or similar flammable liquid down the throttle body, then try cranking the truck over. If it fires and then dies we know its a fueling problem. Be extremely careful with this. Fire and explosions are not only possible by likely if done incorrectly. Air - Unless the truck was launched into space I am guessing you are ok here Compression/ Timing - If the truck had been running fine then up and quit (without obvious explosive detonation) I would again assume this is ok. But depending on the above, this would be my next thing to check. There are lots of things that might keep it from running well, but the above should guarantee it fires.

Welcome to MJs! ~30 years old means you can't trust anything anymore. Inspect and clean everything, every time. I daily drive my MJ, and any time I plan a project I estimate how much time and money it will take. Then I double those numbers and add in two extra trips to the parts stores. Usually that gets me in the ballpark for what it will actually cost and how long my main vehicle will be down. Still in the end its fun.

If you haven't made lime pickles, give em a shot. They are amazing. Something like THIS, although my family adds more spice and some jalapenos and garlic to the can as well.

That is suspiciously low. I would try another CPS. There had been some OEM units not that long ago. Might try and ask @eaglescout526 to see if he can help find em again. Ohm is the man for electrical questions and eaglescout is the go to for ANYTHING parts related.

You have put a pressure gauge on it and verified at least ~30psi? I would also spend some time and load test your grounds. Both engine to ground and frame to ground. Missing or high resistance can cause all kinds of issues. Have you taken a look at cruiser54's tips for the Renix? If not, you really need to. Complete 1-5 right away.

Before resorting to that, pull a plug wire, put a spare plug in in, and ground it out against the block. Then have someone crank the truck. Look at the plug for a bight blue spark. If no spark present, suspect CPS. If spark is present move to fuel.

3 year old thread. Not likely to get a fast answer.

It's not a "recipe", but I just got myself some nice crackers, brie (removed the rind of course), and some braunschweiger. Amazing and amazingly simple. Paired with a basic ale. Word to the wise, a very little bit will make you happy while a lot will make you sick.

Let my wife run it for 1-2 sessions and it will not longer be good, nor will it be running. I have no clue how she kills things so damn quickly, but she does. Weedeaters, cars, trailers, electronics, plants from the garden, it doesn't matter. She touches them and they die.

blades you say? What kind of blades?

A good multimeter is a 'buy once, cry once' type of purchase. Yes you can get one for ~$20, but you will not have a good time with it. Trust me, I struggled with a bad one for years. Kept getting weird results, having to double and triple check my work, sometimes it wouldn't work, etc. Get a Fluke. The above is a paid sponsorship for Renix and Fluke. Seriously though, if you don't have one get one. Then test the CPS.

VAC = Volts AC, measuring the alternating current that the CPS produces. Read THIS page from Cruiser54. Also recommended is to bookmark THIS page and start working your way through the tips from top to bottom. Report back what you find. This will really help us, help you with your no start problem.

Slow down. Lets focus on one thing at a time. Biggest piece to verify: VAC from the CPS when unplugged and trying to start truck. If greater than 0.4 or so, move to step two. Second biggest piece: Pull a plug wire, stick a spare plug in it, ground it against the block. Look for a bright blue spark. These two things will give us a direction to work in. Also, for compression, unless you have actually measured it using the proper tool you don't know. A video of it turning over doesn't mean much. Not saying its a issue, but don't cross it off the list unless you can confirm its not a problem.

Is "the guy" a mechanic, or was he just wrenching on the truck? Have you personally verified by pulling a wire, putting in a spare plug, grounding it against the block, cranking the engine, and watching for spark? If not, you should. This is no guarantee of it working correctly. Read the VAC coming from the CPS while cranking the truck over. Should be ~0.5 or so. Many people have reported bad CPSs right out of the box. From my experience: If your truck is truly getting spark and fuel, and is turning over well then it should fire. Have you tested compression?

An important aside to this: What size wires are you running? Don't up the fuse rating until you know FOR SURE that your wires can handle the load. Asking for a bonfire if this gets messed up. And my apologies if you already thought of this. I felt it had to be said, just in case.

Good looking vehicle. Congrats! Any idea what is keeping it from running?

Definitely time for a leak-down test on cylinders 5 and 6. Side question: Why is it always the hardest to get to cylinders?? Every damn time. Anyways, you need to know if the exhaust or intake might be sticking open, or if the rings are shot. Check out THIS VIDEO for a quick overview. His channel is really good in general. I have learned lots watching stuff. At least that is where I would go next.

Three total. Two non-running and stored inside. One daily driver. Eventually I will be smart enough and rich enough to build the non-running ones into my dream MJ.

Plenty of write-ups and threads on this. Go to google and type in "site:comancheclub.com adding AC" and have fun reading. BTW, this type of search is super helpful. It will limit results to the site you want, in this case, comancheclub.com. I use it all the time for looking up information. Good luck.