eaglescout526

Wild idea. What are the thoughts of an auto parts store sending the line off and having it remade?

Hard line to the HVAC could be dry rotted. Not uncommon of an issue since the hard plastic lines are almost 40 years old.

All the football does is hold vac for both HVAC controls and cruise control. 86 is the odd year for the 2.5L But if you have the V6 2.8L, that’s a whole other story.

Typically it would be more fuel yes. They have no relation to cranking speed. But you mentioned the MAP sensor which just measures the pressure not the air temp. Like Carter said in your other thread, battery, battery cables having resistance and starter would contribute to such. Hell starter relay could if it’s not fully engaging to throw the bendix out to engage the starter. I would suspect starter last since the cold weather has brought on this issue.

MAT and CTS. It uses those temps to determine if a cold start is needed.

Looks like the terrible crown cover. IF it ever fails, ive got a couple hard OEM plastic covers. Or aluminum is a route to go too.

4 speed would make it an AX4 manual. Thats just based on your photos above with the 3 pedals.

If its been converted from 2 to 4wd, it should have either an AX5 5 speed or the AX4 4 speed manual with a 231 transfer case unless they went old and found a 207. On the off chance they found a 4cyl AW4 to throw in(stupid rare). Axles should be D30 front and D35 rear unless it has the metric ton package then it could have a D44

Woah!!! That’s really cool!

I genuinely wonder if this car has some sort of sick humor and enjoys putting me through hell. So while putting the drivers head on, one bolt and its threads were fighting me on threading in nice and easy. So I took the head back off to see what was going on. While doing so, I was playing with the dipstick tube to see if I could pull it out. Well not only did I pull it out, but it broke! So I had to hammer the broken end into the oil pan. Pan needs to come off anyways to inspect everything and I also suspect that someone used the pan to jack up the car at one point as it looks pushed in and flat. Heres where I am at now. Starting to look like an engine again. Have a new timing cover on the way. Damn... theres so much to do on such a finite budget. I do have plans to step away from the traditional rocker arms and go with the roller style that adds a little extra power. I also have plans to yank some 350 heads to hang on to, rebuild and put on one day when I want to get a little more power out of the 403.

Let’s test the resistance on those sensors when it’s dead cold and see what it sees. There’s a chart somewhere that cruiser would often post. If not I’ll grab a pic later from one of my manuals of the values for certain temps.

I wonder if one of those two isn’t recognizing such cold temps. Does the issue persist say after driving around for a bit, go into the store, come back out and starts up with no issue?

I found the same when I ran my 84 XJ through. Renix TBI slashed the results in half.

Have you measured any of the temp sensors that go to the Renix computer? CTS and MAT?

Lol! Youre welcome.

Yes. We put a Christmas tree on the roof.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335507798427?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=P5stATT4Rwm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=n7myxbO3SYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/395910656327?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZJno_ByoTTq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=n7myxbO3SYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY This is that door panel that has the three tone on it that’s a little elusive. Neat to see a new one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335678443415?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=P5stATT4Rwm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=n7myxbO3SYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Neat find.

I got this cool gem the other day

Ok so yes the 55 in pounds is correct torque. Now if you reallllllly want to get to the nitty gritty. Theres an 84-86 procedure and theres an 87-88 procedure. And I love the 87-88 as it says this "1987-1988 Install the cover on the cylinder head Tighten the mounting bolts to 6.2 Nm (55 in-lbs) torque."

I’ve never trusted Haynes or chiltons manuals for anything other than basics and when official material isn’t available. But I would still run both gasket and RTV on the plastic as I’ve had gaskets get a little squished even though there torqued to spec and for the aluminum guys, probably just the gasket will do just fine as they don’t run a huge risk for warp. I’ll get the details this evening from my 2.5L book.

I mean it’s not wrong. It covers both the rockers and valves. Actually that 55in pounds might be more correct. I’ll need to double check with my 2.5L book. I can only speculate I got 11 as the numbers being the same. Im surprised a manual like that would recommend RTV all the way vs getting the gasket and some RTV unless the text is based on the assumption you have the gasket and to put some RTV on the cover.

I would start there unless you have a lead on an aluminum cover and everything else for the swap. What I did was get a genuine valve cover gasket, don’t think Chrysler has them anymore, put some RTV on the cover and put the gasket with the RTV to make alignment easier and then mount the cover. Now the cover does have torque specs so you don’t crack or warp it. It’s about 11 ft pounds.

So with the 2.5L and what I learned over the years is the plastic remake from crown is an absolute pile of dog crap. Do not buy it and stay as far away from them as possible. now that my rant is out of the way. Stick with OEM on the valve cover. AMC and Chrysler used a harder thicker plastic that crown doesn’t seem to know. Either they’re too cheap to make true restoration parts or have never worked on an XJ or MJ. I still run the original hard plastic valve cover and have little to no issues with leaks what so ever. As long as you have the right gasket and some RTV. Now the hard plastic covers are supposed to have a reusable gasket so you don’t have to use RTV with the separate gasket that you get but I’d expect that gasket to be old and failing Now to aluminum covers. Id use one but they don’t have the AMC logo and appeal entirely to the aesthetic I want. Now you do have to do some vacuum rerouting to use the aluminum cover. Oh and you have to get the bolts for the cover too. Can’t reuse the old shoulder bolts from the plastic cover. No. You don’t have to be worried here at all. The valve cover is meant to prevent the oil from leaking out of the top from the rockers. The vapors from oil then get sucked up by the throttle body and thrown into the combustion chamber. Be next to near impossible to blow your head gasket from a sealed valve cover.