eaglescout526

Talk about flipping a 180*.

I just remembered about this. If I am right, its the cable that goes from the TB to the trans, there arent any left as NOS.

Now that is a damn neat find right there. Wish I knew the straight story about LR. All I have to go off of is she came from NY and my grandfather bought her from some people towing her behind a motor home.

Has anyone ever had any issues with this cable? Mine likes to go back to a position to where it grinds on the back side of my rim. Than being said, I unbolted the loop it is held in and moved the cable to over the gas tank corner so it is more pinched into place but it still wants to move but only moves about a millimeter. Second question is, was the cable over the corner of the gas tank from the factory? I dropped my gas tank in 2016 and never paid attention to such until the wheel and cable started getting shaved.

He’s been pretty damn busy lately.

There’s a Will Smith interview somewhere where he says, “social media allows you to share how stupid you are and get made fun of for it, as to where when I was a kid, we could be stupid and no one would know about it”. Just a paraphrase.

Electrolysis or vinegar work best for just metal stuff but vinegar is a bit harsher on the metal vs electrolysis. Could just strip the whole truck and dunk it in a giant MJ shaped tank for electrolysis lol. But what most of us do for rust on the body is just cut out the cancer and put in new metal. Sometimes sanding or wire wheeling the light stuff away isnt bad either.

*Q7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats -SA Charcoal 167 Zone 67-Charlotte 1AA U.S. Dealer Retail 5KR Midland Corporation ADA Light Group ALR APA Monotone Paint ARM Radio AM/FM Cassette BA1 100 AMP ALTERNATOR BCY 475 AMP BATTERY BGA Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CAC Low Back Bucket Seats CDB Reclining Front Seats CKA Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CSR Passenger Assist Handles CUF Full Length Floor Console DBB All Manual Transmissions DDQ 5-Speed Manual Transmission DHN Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJH 230MM Front Axle DMM 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio DRJ Dana 35 Rear Axle EAA All Engines EAF ALL FUEL INJECTED ENGINES-GAS ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC Tinted Glass Windows GBB Tinted Windshield Glass GCB Front Door Tinted Glass GEH Fixed Door Vent Glass GFD Rear Sliding Window GNA Rear View Day/Night Mirror GNB Driver Side Illuminated Sun Visor GNC Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors GRZ Left Remote Mirror GSZ Right Remote Control Mirror GTZ Manual Remote Mirrors HAA Air Conditioning JAY DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JCA 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JGB Digital Clock JHA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJA Cigar Lighter K2B STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR K3W STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KLH LAJ Headlamps On Warning Chimes LAP Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBB Courtesy Lamps LBC Glove Box Lamp LBD Ash Tray Lamp LBE Ambient Light LCJ DOME/READING LAMP B-PILLAR LDH U/Hood, Removable/Rechargeable Lamp LHD Headlamp Off Time Delay LMA Halogen Headlamps LNJ Front Fog Lamps MB1 Black Front Bumper MBJ Black Bumper MCA MDA Front License Plate Bracket MFK Body Color Grille MHA Black Windshield Moldings MMC Rear Door Solid Window Insert MMG Belt Moldings MMK Lower Grille Surround-Painted Silver NAA Federal Emissions NBK EVAP Control System NF2 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank PW7 Bright White Clear Coat QW7 Bright White Clear Coat RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAF AM/FM Cassette Radio RCD 4 Speakers SBA Power Steering SCG Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SFA Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGA Rear Shock Absorbers SUA Tilt Steering Column TAA All Tires TBB Full Size Spare Tire TBM Tire Carrier Winch TRN P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires WJH 15X7 Aluminum Wheels WLZ All Aluminum Wheels XBS Pickup Box YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications YGE 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01 Rear Spring Group I Z5A GVW/Payload Rating Z66 Left Front Group XV Z85 Right Front Spring Group XIV Build date 10/4/89 Body code JL61 Sold by GOWEN CHRYSLER PLYMOUTH JEEP EAGLE, CHARLOTTE NC

Great question! I am not at my computer at the moment but I will look. If not, I know where three XJs with the 2.8L with an auto tranny are.

New head bolts won’t hurt. When I removed my cylinder head, some bolts were rusty, damaged threads or both. I blew out my current evap with compressed air. No problems. Idea is to make sure there is not moisture or oil left from the old system in the evap. Course Minuit might get onto me about such. Not sure on how to flush them though.

Crown actually makes those. They’re called well nuts. P# 34201348

Did you remove the door switches and check them out? Maybe one of the power wires is barely hanging on and is touching the body of the switch and shorting out.

Yeah I haven’t the foggiest idea why it is like it. I I think I wired up my relays wrong and need to change that. But I think my latch mechanism also is a foul member there too as locking and unlocking it by hand before power locks was a challenge. I’ve lubed the hell out of it and I think I just need to take it out and let it soak in some cleaner.

That would be awesome as it seems standard and the barrel crimpers I got will only probably reach to about the second one in a row of four. That being said the power wire could go to one of the end terminals now that I think about it.

Trying to, lol. Still no sign of where the airbag one came from.

That being said Pete, if you recall the Mopar hood lock one, @88mjsally found a 89 build sheet and that hood lock code back in the day meant Dash Mounted Hood Release.

I can get ya a build sheet if you mind changing the title to the VIN or posting it.

It could but most build sheets prior to 89 are incomplete.

Right but I ran into this issue except instead of two, it was four across. So I am not sure if that crimper is up to the task.

I need to redo my power locks. It acts weird. Using the drivers side switch, it acts sluggish and slow. Passenger side will go all day with no fault unlocking and locking both sides. That being said, I keep trying to come up with a way to set up a relay pack to take the load off the switch.

Renix? Bad? There are way worse engine management systems that were made than Renix. If anything Renix is probably one of the more simpler systems even though its one of the firsts computer controlled fuel injection system. It really boils down to the live data from the MS-1700 dealer scan tool, REM and a multimeter. Less time consuming than to find a donor and swap every harness and electronics over to say HO. Even more challenging if you have the 2.5L as there is more involved for an HO swap there.

I am in for a write up. Would love to restore the tailgate that originally came with my truck.

Wow!! Has it really been a few months?! Well I have not done much to her at all. Been driving her like normal. Took her on the freeway to take my girlfriend home back in January. LR kept egging me on to do 70 the whole way to the air port. Still hopefully going to install the long bed running boards soon. Other things get in the way and I had the rear brackets for the running boards powder coated so they will last longer in their present shape. Been putting those off for too long. Been collecting NOS parts and selling so not much there. Been keeping her clean and what not. Replaced the taillamps with a much much better set. Spent a total of a whole day worth of work , scrubbing, cleaning, polishing and painting the lamps. They look fantastic but I have been neglecting to take a pic. But here is one of the lamps: This one didnt take me too long. The passenger side and its paint gave me quite the fuss. I do love how great they came out. Ill snap a pic of both lamps installed. Also replaced all the tailgate rubbers with fiatslugs new ones, so now the tailgate and the straps no longer fight with me when closing. Camper shell bugs me. I have to adjust it every so often and I think it has seen much better fitting days but hey, free is free. Rustoleum paint some how sucks now. I painted a couple valve covers with the stuff and the paint kept coming off with the masking tape. But some Mopar silver and black and now I am gonna strip the other back up covers to withstand and take the engine heat. Nothin much else to report, been giving the T-bird some attention, looking for a house(hellish nightmare here) and just enjoying the drive each morning and afternoon.

All I can say is I might have some of the bolts left over that I used but its more or less based on the riv-nut you use. The passneger side with the three bolts may or may not have nuts there for the bolts to go into. 2.5L's have those bolts there for the engine dampner but not sure with a 4.0L engine bay. The single bolt on the drivers side, I ended up finding a bolt that threaded in to the hole that lined up with the plate hole.

*X1 -Q8 3LW ADL PACKAGE - 4X4 PROTECTION AGJ Driver Assistance Group AGP APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ CLE ACCESSORY FLOOR MAT - FRONT DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual DSA LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL DTA ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GSC MIRROR - RIGHT BLACK JFH TACHOMETER - MECH JGB Clock - Digital JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP K60 BODY SIDE MOLDINGS - VINYL LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS LNJ MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MCA FRONT BUMPER GUARDS MCB MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAF HIGH ALTITUDE EMISS CONTROL PKG NHQ Transmission Heater NMB ENGINE COOLING - STANDARD DUTY PQ9 QQ9 RAF Radio - AM/FM Cassette SBA POWER STEERING SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE SUA TILT STEERING COLUMN TBB CONVENTIONAL SPARE TIRE WJN 15" Aluminum Wheels Build date 7/13/88 Body code JM61 Sold by THE FARICY BOYS, COLORADO SPRINGS CO