eaglescout526

Yeah pretty damn much. Weak spark could be a factor. From CPS to the coil. Was the coil replaced or was the whole ICM replaced?

Ok so pressure needs to be 14.5 PSI and on an unrelated note, that relay you asked about is the load swap relay. The TBI book says that if you have low pressure you will get hard cold starts. Hard starts if pressure is high. I think you doing the pressure adjustment was on the right track.

Ok that’s good. im gonna go consult my TBI manual and see if it has any suggestions.

Well that’s definitely progress actually. Small steps to solving this one. We’re the injector o-rings replaced?

I’ll have to watch this on my lunch. Solid half an our of AMCs.

Huh. How odd. Was the adjustment screw exposed on the bottom of the regulator?

It lines up with having to feather the throttle to get it to restart. Maybe a regulator rebuild is needed along with new injector O-rings

A little bit. Pretty sure output should be 15psi

There’s some FSJ guys that are still running that motor and probably would like a spare.

Maybe the starter relay is failing or sticking?

There should be an 88 electrical manual in the DIY. That should help out a lot with your wiring.

You can get new terminals for that connector. They’re just weather pack terminals. Common GM connector of the era. I have witnessed the C101 do some damn weird things. It would always screw with my O2 sensor.

From what I’ve encountered it will depend. Charcoal has like 2 or 3 different grays. Almond in my XJ was a similar case. The almond for most of the interior was light. The dash and console are darker than the rest. You can usually see such on the back side of the parts your restoring of what the color should be since it was not exposed by the light.

Anyone have one? I more need some dimensions or good pics of where the arm mounts to the motor. Probably both. Need to confirm if it would fit an eagle rear wiper.

Hahaha I saw that one. Well done. I knew we could do that but didn’t want to, as the kids say, flex.

Yeahhhh maybe we shouldn’t have discovered this level of abuse hahaha.

Oh ha ha

I dont know. Someone edit mine since I’m also an admin.

I recall somewhere that was said that the speedo stuff on the 207 is GM stuff.

I hate brute force but sometimes it’s the smartest choice you can make. Since funds are incredibly low during these times, I couldn’t afford a new tie rod and one I had bought a while ago stripped out before even getting it installed in the adjustment sleeve. So brute force came, hammered the tie rod back to a straighter stance, cleaned up the threads, reinstalled and I should now be able to center the steering wheel and give it an alignment.

Bad ground or the gauge has failed is my initial thoughts.

Idle Speed Actuator. It’s similar to the IAC but it’s only found on TBIs. You can find it on the GM cars and trucks and our own 2.5L.

Interesting. Hunting makes me thing the ISA screw is too low. So when it idles the ECU adjusts it to make contact with the closed throttle switch to tell the ECU it’s at idle or coasting in gear. So if it’s idling and it gets too low on idle, the ECU will kick the ISA up and try again. If it fails to maintain an idle while in closed loop, it will default to open loop fun little fact. Learned that with a bad headgasket while watching the REM. These do have grease inside and can harden and or not make good contact anymore. I hope that explains your why. How? Could be a couple reasons IE headgasket or the ISA was played with for another issue.

Holy crap! That’s a first. Usually that’s messed with by other when they have an idle issue.

Yes commentary welcome here! That way we can seem to include that radiator mod or not.