boxyjeep

If they want them, they are going to get them. Wheel locks will on (slightly) slow them down. Invest in a cheap set from Amazon, and get security cameras and a hidden kill-switch.

2016+ Jeep Cherokee KL leather/heated power seats. Chopped up some Krusty’s brackets and built the rest. Not fun. The floor pans are way too tight. I have a write-up on the how-to sub forum.

Looking for one or two drip rail covers. Can be any color other than chrome. Let me know.

Ugh. Finding the right size injectors has been painful. I spent a bunch of time trying to verify that my fuel pump was supplying enough fuel. Fuel pressure would be at 31# to the rail at idle, but under load it would drop to the mid 20# range. I also tested voltage to the pump and found a 0.5v drop (14.4v at battery, 13.9v at pump), which seemed acceptable to me. During one of my cross-country shipments of the truck the tank was run dry, so I was already somewhat suspect of the fuel pump. On top of that, the tank would leak when filling up, so it was time to pull the tank and pump to inspect everything. After getting it out, I found the vapor valve seals on the top of the tank were bad and it was also rusting on one side. The fuel pump had a loose terminal and very tight hose bend (greater than 90*). I ordered a new pump, tank, and seals and got those installed. After getting that situated, the AFR was improved, but simply could not hit the desired +/- 2.5v O2 sensor read-out with 20# injectors (best I could do after warming up was ~2.7-2.9v). Much improved from the super-rich 23# injectors, but too lean to run long term. This was also with an adjustable MAP sensor cranked up to ~6v (stock is 5v). Being close to the end of my rope, I ordered a new NTK O2 sensor, Accel 21# injectors, and a new set of plugs (as the current ones could be fouled from various injector testing). Should be able to get everything installed early next week. Hoping that this solves the air/fuel ratio mystery and I can finally get this thing running well.

I’ll PM you guys and also update this thread.

Thanks everyone. Sounds like an overwhelming interest. Let me get some things setup and I'll get back to you guys on pricing and ordering.

A

Shhh

These are fully re-rendered versions of OE info decals printed on high-quality permanent vinyl. Everyone who has purchased these so far has been super pleased with the quality. I've started a website for these -- https://boxyjeep.com/ Feel free to DM me for any custom orders (door jamb or emissions labels). All images are digitally re-rendered (these ARE NOT low-quality photocopies of the original decals).

Just had a chance to watch this. Really appreciated the one-wheel-peel at the end. Also commented telling him to check out CC.

Check out JCR off-road MJ build. They did it.

Thanks! Took way too much time, but it came out pretty good.

Thanks! Super happy to be selected for Sept 2022 MJOTM!

And they’re gone…

Would also like to run these in my MJ. I currently have a D44 rear in need of a rebuild and a vacuum disconnect D30 that I planned to replace anyway. Probably would end up being cheaper going this route than building on my own. And only a 4 hour drive away from me...

Ha! Where is everyone getting it from? Nowhere. They were only available in 97+ 2-door XJ's with power windows (which was a rare combo to begin with). If you are lucky enough to find one on eBay or elsewhere, they go for a premium ($100+). Keep your eyes peeled in junkyards and online and you may get lucky. I'm running a 97+ 2-door switch with the 4-door bezel (as I haven't been able to find one yet). This works out okay, with only 2 extra holes that aren't a huge deal...

I've built the adjustable MAP sensor (and cranked it to 6 volts) and am currently trying to get 20 lb/hr Bosch injectors (P/N 0-280-155-909) to work for me. If that doesn't fly, I may try the set of 23 lb/hr injectors that I also have (P/N 0-280-155-703) with the MAP voltage decreased. If neither of those options work, I may end up splurging for Accel 21 lb/hr injectors (P/N 150121). I just hate playing "part swap roulette" when there is a simple solution for this (an AFPR) but I need to be covert to pass CA smog...

Any reason why you can’t put the 91+ speedo gauge into the 87-90 cluster and simply run your own wiring/harness to the speedo sensor on the transmission?

Unfortunately, I need to pass CA smog so any aftermarket rails are likely going to illicit suspicion. Even if I am able to leverage the setup that OP posted, it may get flagged.

Hate to revive an old thread, but what fitting did you use to go from -6 AN to the fuel rail? Thinking of going this route on my stroker since Hesco stopped making AFPR’s.

That's not a fun or easy repair. To fix it properly, you likely need to pull the windshield and dash (in addition to the hood and fender). Personally, I would swap in fresh steel from a junkyard XJ.

That thing is super clean. Amazing transformation over the years!

I feel bad after reading this. I was messaging with @commissioneranthony a few weeks ago and he asked about this upgrade/swap and I outlined how I did it in my '88 in a day with no issues (minus the brake light switch). I used the following parts: Booster: CARDONE 5C473163 (RockAuto) MC: RAYBESTOS MC390511 (RockAuto) Adapters you may need: AGS BLAB312, AGS BLAO380 (RockAuto), as well as some 3/16" brake line to flare. Proportioning valve: Wilwood 4444/30 260-11179 (Amazon) Standard Motor Products SLS66 Stoplight Switch (Amazon) I couldn't get the original switch to reliably work (even after filing down the arm), so I installed the SLS66 brake switch in the original cruise control/trans brake switch location (no longer had those) and wired up a relay for the trans brake signal to the TCU. I also removed the load sensing valve in the process. If there is one thing I've learned with these trucks, there will be some frustrations trying to get them reliable.

To be fair, you could achieve the winter warm up with two of the same keys too... ;-) When I was in the process of rekeying my door locks and glove box, I would accumulate key cylinders when I went to the junkyard. I was then able to pull the tumblers out of them to re-key to match my ignition cylinder (which cannot easily be re-keyed). Same thing can probably be done with 91-96 rear hatch cylinders.

Been making some slow progress on the truck trying to figure out some air/fuel ratio issues. I'm running an ATK 4.6L stroker that I installed in March, however due to needing to pass CA emissions, I am severely limited in any other (noticeable) modifications that may cause me to fail visual inspection. Most notably, I need to have a functioning EGR system which necessitates a RENIX intake manifold, exhaust manifold, intake, cylinder head, etc. I have a bored throttle body and removed the venturi in the stock airbox, but otherwise the truck "appears" original. I tried running the stock 19lb injectors (Bosch P/N 0280155702), but those were slightly too lean and would encounter fuel starvation issues under load @3000k RPM. I took some bad advice from one of the stroker forums suggesting 24lb injectors (Bosch 24.7lb P/N 0280155715), but those were too rich for RENIX engines and "mild" strokers. I thought 23lb (Bosch P/N 0280155703) would be correct, but those were too rich after the truck warmed up (the ECU wouldn't enter closed loop). At this point I stopped playing "swap-a-part" and started looking into how to adjust the fuel pressure at the rail, but it looks like it's only possible with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Hesco sells one, but they are currently backordered with no end in sight. After waiting a few weeks and doing a bunch more research on injectors, I determined that 20lb or 21lb would be sufficient and ordered some Bosch 20lb'ers (P/N 0280155909). Still waiting a few more days for those to come in. In the meantime, here's a nice pic I took recently in Dana Point CA overlooking the harbor.