boxyjeep

Lost track of this thread a bit, but finally got this project all done. I ended up re-doing each mount at least once. It's very difficult to properly center the seat with the proper height while also ensuring it can move forward/backward correctly. Completed drivers side brackets (notice the diagonal alignment for the rear mounting points): Final fitment--the power adjustment and heat is functional: Overall, I'm very happy with how they ended up, but in the future would just buy a set of Corbeau Trailcats with pre-fabbed brackets. I would estimate at least 20-30 hours into this swap.

I finally have some good news after a few weeks of toil--I was able to get the truck running well enough to pass CA smog (only took 3 tries!). The first test failed with super high NOx values. These are typically due to high combustion chamber temps (i.e., engine running lean). I also had some concerns about my catalytic converter. It was 3 years old but also had a bunch of oil/coolant passed through it with the prior engine that blew. Here's what I did to get it to pass: Colder plugs (ZFR6F-11 gapped to .030") 21 lb/hr Accel injectors (likely didn't need these, but these are well worth the $75/injector price tag) New O2 sensor (the old one was shot and wouldn't go below ~2.6v) New Catalytic converter (was able to get Advance Auto to honor a warranty replacement of the old one that I bought in 2019 for $250. If I had bought a new one it would be $1200 ). Tested EGR valve and found it was stuck halfway closed. This contributed to rough idle and other issues. Cleaned and replaced with an old OEM unit w/ transducer. Don't use "AIRTEX / WELLS 4F1899 (EGR4350)". It doesn't work. Blocked hot air mixer flap in the airbox to prevent any hot air from entering intake. Removed and cleaned IAT sensor and relocated to airbox. Temp readings decreased from ~150*F to ~90*F (massive improvement here). New MAP sensor and fixed discovered vacuum leak. Cranked up MAP voltage to 5.5v. Forced electric aux fan to run for the entirety of the test. Passed with flying colors (went from ~1500 NOx PPM to 0--yes, ZERO!): New Accel 21# injectors and FPR: Engine bay looking clean: Very happy to ditch the out-of-state registration... Front end looking good: As far as next things to do on the build: The engine runs great when cold, but after driving for 30+ minutes there is definitely some heat soak that contributes to diminished performance. I'd like to heat wrap the exhaust manifold, but don't want to pull the intake out to do so. I am also encountering a slowdown around 2800 RPM's. I don't know if the engine needs to break in a bit more (only about 450 miles on the stroker), or if that just the nature of a Renix stroker with stock intake/exhaust. Oil pan gasket has a few leaks. Not super happy about this as I had the shop that swapped the engine install a new Fel-Pro blue gasket (which is typically great). I'm going to pull it and replace when I change the oil for the first time. AC isn't working. Need to verify the electronics and ensure it has refrigerant. SOA and long-arms are in my future. I bought a set of 33" BFG A/T's to replace these tires and plan to lift it a bit more to fit them (likely only 2-3" higher than current height). HP D30 build -- will be grabbing a non-disconnect axle from the junkyard and building up with locker and WJ knuckles/brakes before installing the lift.

Thanks--it's been a long road! And it's still ongoing...

Wouldn't it be 25%? 4 sets of wheel locks, 100 / 4 = 25?

When you have 5 different locking lug nut sets and you can't find that one last keyed socket when your on the side of the road trying to change a flat...

If they want them, they are going to get them. Wheel locks will on (slightly) slow them down. Invest in a cheap set from Amazon, and get security cameras and a hidden kill-switch.

2016+ Jeep Cherokee KL leather/heated power seats. Chopped up some Krusty’s brackets and built the rest. Not fun. The floor pans are way too tight. I have a write-up on the how-to sub forum.

Looking for one or two drip rail covers. Can be any color other than chrome. Let me know.

Ugh. Finding the right size injectors has been painful. I spent a bunch of time trying to verify that my fuel pump was supplying enough fuel. Fuel pressure would be at 31# to the rail at idle, but under load it would drop to the mid 20# range. I also tested voltage to the pump and found a 0.5v drop (14.4v at battery, 13.9v at pump), which seemed acceptable to me. During one of my cross-country shipments of the truck the tank was run dry, so I was already somewhat suspect of the fuel pump. On top of that, the tank would leak when filling up, so it was time to pull the tank and pump to inspect everything. After getting it out, I found the vapor valve seals on the top of the tank were bad and it was also rusting on one side. The fuel pump had a loose terminal and very tight hose bend (greater than 90*). I ordered a new pump, tank, and seals and got those installed. After getting that situated, the AFR was improved, but simply could not hit the desired +/- 2.5v O2 sensor read-out with 20# injectors (best I could do after warming up was ~2.7-2.9v). Much improved from the super-rich 23# injectors, but too lean to run long term. This was also with an adjustable MAP sensor cranked up to ~6v (stock is 5v). Being close to the end of my rope, I ordered a new NTK O2 sensor, Accel 21# injectors, and a new set of plugs (as the current ones could be fouled from various injector testing). Should be able to get everything installed early next week. Hoping that this solves the air/fuel ratio mystery and I can finally get this thing running well.

I’ll PM you guys and also update this thread.

Thanks everyone. Sounds like an overwhelming interest. Let me get some things setup and I'll get back to you guys on pricing and ordering.

A

Shhh

These are fully re-rendered versions of OE info decals printed on high-quality permanent vinyl. Everyone who has purchased these so far has been super pleased with the quality. I've started a website for these -- https://boxyjeep.com/ Feel free to DM me for any custom orders (door jamb or emissions labels). All images are digitally re-rendered (these ARE NOT low-quality photocopies of the original decals).

Just had a chance to watch this. Really appreciated the one-wheel-peel at the end. Also commented telling him to check out CC.

Check out JCR off-road MJ build. They did it.

Thanks! Took way too much time, but it came out pretty good.

Thanks! Super happy to be selected for Sept 2022 MJOTM!

And they’re gone…

Would also like to run these in my MJ. I currently have a D44 rear in need of a rebuild and a vacuum disconnect D30 that I planned to replace anyway. Probably would end up being cheaper going this route than building on my own. And only a 4 hour drive away from me...

Ha! Where is everyone getting it from? Nowhere. They were only available in 97+ 2-door XJ's with power windows (which was a rare combo to begin with). If you are lucky enough to find one on eBay or elsewhere, they go for a premium ($100+). Keep your eyes peeled in junkyards and online and you may get lucky. I'm running a 97+ 2-door switch with the 4-door bezel (as I haven't been able to find one yet). This works out okay, with only 2 extra holes that aren't a huge deal...

I've built the adjustable MAP sensor (and cranked it to 6 volts) and am currently trying to get 20 lb/hr Bosch injectors (P/N 0-280-155-909) to work for me. If that doesn't fly, I may try the set of 23 lb/hr injectors that I also have (P/N 0-280-155-703) with the MAP voltage decreased. If neither of those options work, I may end up splurging for Accel 21 lb/hr injectors (P/N 150121). I just hate playing "part swap roulette" when there is a simple solution for this (an AFPR) but I need to be covert to pass CA smog...

Any reason why you can’t put the 91+ speedo gauge into the 87-90 cluster and simply run your own wiring/harness to the speedo sensor on the transmission?

Unfortunately, I need to pass CA smog so any aftermarket rails are likely going to illicit suspicion. Even if I am able to leverage the setup that OP posted, it may get flagged.

Hate to revive an old thread, but what fitting did you use to go from -6 AN to the fuel rail? Thinking of going this route on my stroker since Hesco stopped making AFPR’s.