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That’s a bag full of parts . If your removing your 89 knuckles, post them up for sale. They are compatible with big brake setups and are nice upgrades for the 90+ knuckles. You can get the passenger side bracket for the Wilwood prop valve that fits well.

You’re in a tough spot with this rig without shelling out some coin and fixing some items if you want a driver.

The number of leaves doesn’t set the lift height. It’s the free arch and spring rate that set ride height. The GS springs provide a mild lift around 2” on most applications. When you run them SOA on a on a larger tubed axle, you’ll get plenty of lift. I’d say you’re looking at at around 7”.

Are you going to run those GS springs SOA? I ran the GS 4 leaf pack SOA on a Dana 35 with stock MJ shackles and was sitting at 7” of lift (which never settled) over stock 4wd specs. GS springs have a nice free arch which which provides a mild lift when run SUA, but will require either stock MJ shackles or longer such as JKS or Core. SOA will be sitting pretty tall. Do you have a slip yoke eliminator installed on your transfer case? I don’t see a slip yoke in the driveshaft itself. The reason I mention this is that, when you shorten your wheelbase by moving the hangers back to stock position, your already steep driveshaft angle will get worse. I had some quite terrible driveshaft vibes when first going SOA on the GS springs until installing an SYE. Again I’d suggest considering going back to SUA with the gs springs

How are you measuring the axle offset?

All the prop valve fitting are 3/8-24 inverted flare iirc (or possibly one of them is 7/16). What you can do is get some short premade nicopp lines with the correct fitting for the prop valve then use adapters for the master cylinder side. The metric bubble flare adapters can be purchased at most auto parts stores. They will have the m10 or m12 bubble flare on one end and a 3/8-24 inverted flare on the other.

XJ shackles will rotate your pinion angle down toward the ground a bit. That may cause driveshaft vibes

You could measure the springs and see if they could possibly be flipped to correct the wheelbase. As for the quantity of leaves, there are no overload springs in that pack. The design of the pack you have using multiple thin leaves is a great spring design but you’ll likely have issues if you remove a couple of springs as there aren’t really any supplementary springs in that design

I’ve been using this blower motor for several years and it works excellent. Also has less current draw than stock. I don’t recall the numbers but iirc, it was about 30% lower amp draw with at least equal if not higher airflow.

I used the Joying 6.2” single din head unit. Can’t say enough good things about that unit. @Limeyjeeper was the one who first suggested it. Seems like very good quality unit. Unfortunately, I don’t see it listed on Joying’s site anymore though the 7” single DIN *may* fit

One other thing I forgot to mention, if you’re going to be doing any work on the rear suspension, start dousing those spring and shackle bolts in PB blaster for the next few days. The bolt shoulders tend to get rusted to the bushing sleeves.

I will say, staying spring over and removing leaves may give you a pretty good recipe for axle wrap. Base the lift around the tire size you have/want. With your wheel openings already trimmed, you could probably run a 33 with little issue on General Spring replacement 4 leaf packs and maybe a 3” front lift coil. If you want to stay SOA, you’re really not going to get less than about 5” of lift on stock springs, especially with your 8.25 axle tubes. Here is a possible route for you to go if you want to get back to a lower lift and correct geometry: GS 4 leaf packs 3” front lift coils Stock MJ or JKS shackles (XJ shackles can limit your spring flex if you go SUA) New front spring hangers (something like this may work but double check your measurements: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1133.html Also grab some new shock mounting tabs and SUA perches from ruff stuff. Based on your other posts, you can grab a pair of passenger side bed repair panels if you want to restore the factory flare mounts (this will limit your tire size down to about 31’s or maybe 32’s depending on wheel offset and tire width) With this setup you can run off the shelf ZJ steering, no control arm drop brackets, no dropped pitman arms, stock ball joints, stockish brakes, adjustable track bar and you’ll have a nice handling and performing rig. It will cost a bit but still represent a great value depending on your end goals. Just remember to start with tire size and let that dictate what you need. There is a nice video from DPG off-road about trimming your wheel well openings that actually looks decent and performs well

Some final shots before leaving

Looks like a custom pack. No overload springs and all the leaves are about the same thickness. Good spring recipe

I’d pull the bottom two leaves and some regular MJ shackles. Bet that will get you close

You’ll be hard pressed to find a new radio without Bluetooth. Crutchfield will be helpful here. You can filter out result for single din and Bluetooth. This is a nice option that has a somewhat period correct look without all the gloss black and rainbow color displays https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ddSZZRedSVP/p_020M508/Clarion-M508.html?XVINQ=GZ0&XVVer=13XP&awcr=628067979022&awdv=m&awnw=g&awug=9060252&awkw=pla-423311294129&awmt=&awat=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzrzABhD8ARIsANlSWNNjSly0K9Bk3wFzBxrdGn_OCrTnY-WBKK0mYaXo-iynFypePdJn36gaAjRJEALw_wcB

Yep that’s right

This is a good idea and the same things I do after rebuilding the parking brake. Really helps the pawl and sprocket

I think the grey one? The one that matches the HO cluster

Need a passenger side air vent (I think it’s the same as the center vent). Let me know what you have.

Need a renix fuel gauge (just the small one in the dash). Turns out my sending unit has a Renix sweep vs the HO sweep I was needing. Since I heavily modified the sending unit for the 255 pump, it’s easiest for me to just switch the gauge in the cluster.

Could I get that from you?

A guy has it stored indoors as part of his car collection. The things never really sees the light of day so It’s rust free. I really don’t let any rust start up. I use DOM16, fluid film, and ceramic coatings all the time to stay on top of any oxidation

Yes