ghetdjc320

Another project I'm going to knock out: I noticed a bit of play in the steering column and discovered its the 4 external torx bolts that hold the tilt head onto the column. You can sort of get to two of them to tighten them but two remain inaccessible unless you remove the two pivot pins and the tilt head. Ordered up the remover tool and will pull those out to Loctite them and re-secure everything. Also had a bit of slop in the OE steering shaft u joint so i picked up a Borgeson HD unit to replace it. Will report back on how it all fits.

Well, just got off the phone with seatbelt planet. They are based out of Oklahoma and were very responsive and happy to make a seat belt setup for a bucket seat Comanche. They had a SKU already but had not seen a bucket seat MJ before and only made belts for bench seat trucks. I remembered that @USN_JeepMJ had used them but had to make brackets to accommodate the buckle end. I spoke with a man named Steve and sent him some reference pictures of what the buckle ends look like for the buckets along with the sleeves and they are going to build them for me and make a new SKU available for bucket seat trucks. Hopefully we will have a nice bolt-in option now

I believe these are a good option. Being from a 2dr they seem to have the right lengths and the bolt-on ends appear to be correct. Perhaps also add the above sleeves and this may be a bolt-in set. Perhaps I'll be the guinea pig and give them a shot. 1984-1996 Jeep Cherokee 2 Door, Bolt-In Ends

I've come across these a few times. I believe it's the same as the MJ units. 1984-1996 Jeep Cherokee Buckle Sleeve

By all means! Planning on getting it fired up over the weekend. Then it's on to finishing up the brakes and cab wiring with is about 80 percent complete so far. I think I think the end is finally in sight. Curious to see what curve ball this thing throws at me next

And here we have it, true dual exhaust on an MJ. Once I get the engine running and the truck driving, I’ll have the exhaust shop tuck the tips up a bit closer to the bumper and trim them flush. Also would like to get some extra clearance near the pumpkin. Definitely some challenges working with an LCG engine swapped rig. But overall very satisfied with the results. Looking forward to hearing it for the first time, hopefully over the weekend.

Interesting, thanks for the pic! A little different from the oem but looks like a good design

I’m going to cross post this content for reference. The Crown 97+ seals seem to be a good option:

IIRC, it has something to do with the length of the webbing while in the retracted position. I was thinking the 4dr XJ belts mount higher up on the pillar and ultimately have a shorter overall length than the 2dr ones. I'm wondering what source though offers new belts that fit and function as they should.

I've searched through some of our older threads but haven't clearly identified which seat belts fit in a Comanche (aside from the originals). Will 4dr or 2dr XJ belts fit and function correctly? some manufacturers list belts as fitting the Comanche but always seem to require some mods to work or fit correctly.

This is the way

Would you mind posting some pics of the install?

Future post hold

I believe so. Will scope it out with the shop and see what can be done. With the x pipe, I'm not terribly concerned about keeping things equal length.

Dual 2.5 is the plan. Picked up a borla dual in/out muffler with internal x pipe, a pair of stainless spun cats and some o2 bungs with heat sinks. Once exhaust is wrapped up I’ll do the final touches on electrical to get the engine running.

Some brief updates: added a clutch switch that will act as both a starter safety and a clutch signal to the ls pcm for fuel and spark table triggers. The switch I found from my local oreiolys was for a Hyundai Elantra of all things. I’m sure it fits multiple years but I went with 2006. The switch has a normally open and a normally closed set of contacts. The normally open will be for the starter so the circuit will close when pressing the clutch. The other set of contacts is what the ls PCM is looking for and opens the circuit when the clutch is pressed. Fabbed up a little bracket with some 16awg sheet and bolted it to the clutch pedal bracket. Added a small stack of washers as shims to set the proper switch depth. Works very nicely. The jeep is headed down to the exhaust shop tomorrow so I finished installing the front and rear driveshafts and dialed in the front suspension. Also fit up the rear bumper just so they can see what brackets will be on the frame. You can see how I modded this bumper. I cutout some 3/16 plate and welded shut the bumper lights and the various accessory bolt holes they drill into these. All in all I guess this is currently the best option now that JCR isn’t producing the rear bumper anymore. I do like how this turned out (still have some additional welding and grinding to do) but it was a lot more work. I set my upper and lower control arms as well. Lowers are at 16” plus a 1/8” shim in the control arm adjuster in the frame side. Uppers are set to 15” eye to eye. That gave me a caster of 10* which is quite nice. I do like how you can get these nice specs with these lower lifts.

I’ve had to straighten my pinch seam in a few places as well to get a better seal. Let us know how they turn out for you. If you wouldn’t mind, post up in that thread as well for future reference

Is your truck lifted?

I can say from my experience that those springs do not settle much. They are simply out of spec for stock replacements. But they are excellent lift springs .

MTS sells new Renix MJ sending units

Renix CPS is a VR sensor. But as stated above, the coil output is what the tach receives and it's the same for HO models. If you swap to the HO cluster, you can use either a fuel level conversion module or just grab an MTS sending unit for a 91-92 MJ.

Oh nice! Is that a factory switch then?

I know MJ’s didn’t come with a clutch starter safety switch but has anyone ever added one? If so, what did you use? I’m in need of one for my engine swap as the clutch signal activates the decel/coast fuel and spark tables on my pcm.

I’d suggest the 1280 springs unless you’re some major weight in the bed. Both springs offer the same free arch and provide basically the same lift.

Well, what a day with wiring. Couldn’t figure out what was going on with my power to the pcm. When the key was off the pcm ignition was on but went off when the key was on. Turns out painless wired the relays all wrong and stuck the ign power on the N/C side of the relays. Took several hours to rewire but I’m happy to report that it’s working perfectly now. Was able to test engine circuits now and they are working great. There has been countless mods along the way such as wiring in a normally closed relay into the brake circuit to provide the pcm with the necessary signal to deactivate the cruise control. Also wired in the Dakota digital signal converter and set it up to provide the 8k ppm signal for the jeep speedo. I gave the pcm the correct 128k ppm signal along with the appropriate speedo gear for the ratio and tire size. I’ll calibrate the pcm further if needed so it sees the exact speed along with the speedometer. All the wiring, PCM and TAC module fit under the dash using the modified renix ecu bracket though it is a painstaking process. Was also able to mock up the air intake and it’s a perfect fit. I used a 4”-3.5” bending reducer, genuine carbon fiber tubing then a 30* coupler which I shortened then the maf/oat and filter. The errant relay system ridiculousness