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I must say, that rear Gladiator bumper looks great .

Just for pure kicks and giggles, checkout an Isuzu rodeo/Honda passport rear rotor from 95 up to 2003. 95-96 will be one style, 97 will be another and 98-03 will be yet another. All had a 6x5.5 patter and internal parking drum brake. Who knows if it’s anything that may fit but worth a shot

The inner circle should be the explorer 5x4.5 circle.

We need another thread on “how to remove this screw” . That one was even labeled a “hot topic” a few times

I’m pretty sure that’s some kind of record on CC for the single longest post .

But… they can’t drill a 6 lug and 5 lug pattern without interference if the diameter is close enough. Proper conversion rotors would be best and should only have the pattern you need. But these rotor will work in a pinch

It’s scheduled to arrive June 9th.

The 6.7 joying is a drop in replacement in stock location but I can’t seem to find any more of them available. I also installed a double din Sony unit on my last MJ as it only uses a shallow single din chasis. It does require airbox mods though.

Very cool to spot a fellow club members’ MJ here on island today @Yellowoctupus Next year in May there is an island wide car show at Andersen Air Force Base. I say we arrange an MJ takeover for anyone willing and able

Out of curiosity, what rear axle do you have in that 86? For some reason, it’s looking a little narrower in the rear than I’m used to seeing but maybe it’s just the picture angle.

Maybe make a few bucks off of this one and find something with a better fit? Some fiberglass work could also be done to make it look custom but I’m guessing that would cost more than the value of the end result.

Yeah, I’m not buying that. I absolutely love MJ’s but you have to call it what it is, they were built like a disposable truck. The spot weld placements, the seam sealer, the thickness of materials, treatment of the metal used, the lack of adequate drainage, seals, quality of the interior plastics, wiring, the list can go on and on.

This is a question of ergonomics. It’s not even based on your height but more your proportions. If you’re taller from the hips up you may not like them. If you like more thigh and knee support due to longer legs, you may like them. I’m cracking up just writing this . it is funny though, you’ll see some posts about x seat or x seat bracket is all wrong and is too high or too low. If you have two people both 6’ tall, they will likely have different proportions and will likely give different feedback on fit and/or comfort. Bottom line, they may work fine for you and that’s all that mattes, but you’ll have to try them.

As far as I can tell, the only difference with the 84-86 swap is you can reuse your bell housing . I will say though, a good internal slave cylinder normally works very well. Many vehicles use the internal design. I actually prefer it, provided that it’s a good quality unit. Should provide many years of trouble free operation and last as long as a decent clutch.

The MJ’s I’ve had both had the push in style bump stop that doesn’t have the threaded piece. I’ve use the rubicon express bump stops twice now with good results. If you need a longer bump stop than that, use the puck style spacers on the axle side to take up the space.

I posted the parts needed for a swap to the newer style vs the somewhat obscure (albeit intriguing) 84-86 style. You’ll need to pull the trans though regardless. But for sure swap the master if it’s leaking or giving any issues

Sounds great! Are you still running an ax15 with that setup?

As for parts, if you don’t go with the 84-86 setup mentioned above, you’ll need an external slave bell housing, input shaft retainer, clutch fork, pivot ball with retainer clip, throw out bearing (DO NOT GET CHEAP WITH THIS ONE ), and the slave cylinder along with the line. Often times the master/slave are sold as a unit but you can purchase separately. Luk and Centric seem to have been good after market suppliers for clutch components. Go timken, precision, national or SKF for the throw out bearing. Transmission has to be removed. Just take it one bolt at a time and you’ll be done in no time . When bleeding an external slave setup, I’d recommend “reverse bleeding”. There are a few good YouTube videos regarding the process. It would probably be worth it to swap the clutch and pilot bearing as well. Luk rep-set clutch and a bronze pilot bushing normally are good values. External slave cylinders use a different line fitting than the old 7/16 inverted flare master cylinders used but can be adapted.

Here is the worst offender .

I believe the ones that he has for the mirror deleted are a bit different. The originals have a flange all the way around them and a bit different cut. Some original style replacements would be super handy

When I LS swapped, I went with 10awg frame reinforcement from the control arms brackets forward

Nice! Please let me know when you might have those available. Mirror gaskets would be awesome as well.

Antenna blank plugs? Any chance you’ll have these for the 97+ fenders as well? Another nice product would be a simple gasket for the door lock mechanism. YJ’s have them but they don’t fit MJ/XJs

I was able to source some good used ones with my metal handle swap but it would be great if someone could reproduce the door handle gaskets and especially the mirror gaskets. @Dzimm or @boxyjeep