ghetdjc320

99-2004 were the main years for the WJ

I was surprised to see different slave cylinders available starting in 91 on rock auto. Figured they would all have been the same for the ax15 up until they went external in 94. 91 is the first year the Timken version shows up. Realistically though, I’ve had the throw out bearing go bad as well in an external slave ax15. Same pain to swap it as well. I like the idea of eliminating the linkage and having that direct clutch engagement from an internal slave provided it was reliable. That eliminates a lot of small parts and linkage. It’s notable too that most performance manual transmission vehicles today use internal slaves. Seems the tech was sound, provided it was properly manufactured.

Most of those items will let you run 35’s but that will still be upper limits for the Dana 30. The ring and pinion are just too small to take much more. But you should have a very capable rig as is

The 89- D35 used a Dana 44 backing plate and 10" drums. It wouldn't be impossible to fit the TJ style drum backer, but I can't see it being much of an upgrade. As for compatibility though, if you post up in the repairs and mods section, you'll likely get far more viewers. PS. thanks for that thread link! The one question I haven seen a straight answer on is whether or not you could run the 5x5 pattern on a wj knuckle swap. This would use the 27 spline D30 outers. I'm assuming a spacer may still be in order.

What are you currently running for steering and brakes? 35’s are about the upper limit for what the Dana 30 can handle even in upgraded form. 8.25 is getting up there also at 35’s but probably could run 37’s if needed. Steering, brakes and suspension geometry would be my primary concern. If you lifted 5-6” and fender trimmed to accommodate 37’s, that is a viable option, but one that still calls for extensive brake, steering and front axle upgrades.

Looks like Timken has one. The hydraulic system includes the master cylinder, slave cylinder (with integrated throw out bearing) and all associated hose and fittings. I’d start by looking for leaks and possibly bleeding it for any trapped air first. That may fix the problem

The AA is a good kit. Grab the best throwout bearing you can find though. Or, just stick with a quality internal slave setup and run Redline, 10w30 synthetic motor oil or whatever else works with the brass synchros. Luk Rep-Set has been a pretty good clutch option. Going over 8 lift on 35's will help you refocus to other problems aside from the tranny

If you're on level ground, it may have been overfilled. I have filled mine using the shift tower on occasion but I leave the fill plug open to set the correct level. If the fill plug is left in I could see how it could get overfilled easily. I wouldn't be greatly concerned about that though or the presence of some brass dusting.

As for values, Hagerty has a good tool to price Comanche’s that’s based off of comparable sales. If you’re looking for the 97+ header panel swap, the new aftermarket panels are mostly junk. Get a good used grill on eBay or a junk yard if available.

I tried the 95-96 booster but iirc it had slightly smaller diaphragms than the later model XJ and provided a bit less boost. I’m running the 97+ master cylinder as well since I wanted a 1” bore. I now need a 1-1/8 more as I don’t have enough fluid movement for these big brakes but the 1” works perfectly on stock brakes with the correct booster. The WJ also runs a 1” MC. The XJ setup clears the hoodline nicely though where the WJ booster needs to be flipped.

I’d second checking the clutch first as well. As for tranny fluid, I run 10w30 motor oil as suggested by the old mopar tsb.

This is about 300lbs of tongue weight. With this load I have about 1.5” of travel left in the suspension. Definitely needs an upgrade to the rear springs. On another note, I’d love to add a second axle to this trailer as I’d like to eventually run a gear/storage box near the front of the trailer frame just before the tongue which will only add more tongue weight

How are you attaching the pushrod to the brake pedal? I cutoff the old MJ booster pushrod and welded it to the 01 XJ booster I’m running and the pedal height remained the same.

Time for some updates: new PSC box is in and it works perfectly. Old box was 100% to blame for the horrendous steering I was experiencing. Need to finish aligning the steering wheel, but that should be a quick fix. I’m thinking I may need to grab some general spring rear springs as my spring rate is just a bit too soft for my use. I frequently trailer or haul heavy loads and could really use a higher spring rate. My current leaf springs are a rebuilt oem pack with a BDS add a leaf. They flex excelenty and are about a 1” lift over stock. From experience, I know the general springs will provide a mild lift over stock even in their 4 leaf configuration. I’m thinking they should keep a nice ride height if I swap them for the current pack. I would be negligent to not mention what an awesome steering box the PSC big bore unit is. They provide taps and caps for running hydro assist if I ever go that route. Truly a quality product. I’ve given up on ever finding a decent rebuilt box. Redhead should have been a quality unit but unfortunately it failed the test. Best thing redhead could do now is accept a return but I doubt they will Some pics of the Tomahawk getting some much needed attention.

I’d suggest you first find the source of the problem. Once you fire the parts canon, you’re never sure what exactly solved your issue. But I would also second the above, get on rock auto and source some quality parts. Stick with Dana/Spicer, SKF, Timken and Moog. Also look into the ZJ tie rod swap.

You can check the hot side of the radiator (coolant return side). That will be pretty much the hottest coolant temp reading you can get. Make sure all of your hose clamps are tight with zero leaks. A small leak can cause an overheat as the system can’t pressurize to raise the boiling temp. Is your water pump a stock replacement? Have you changed the radiator cap? Are you using the oe fan shroud? Do you have an auxiliary e fan?

Was able to replace the upper arm rest retainer clip and finally get my arm rest solid. Started tracking down a slight clanking sound when going over bumps. I found a bit of play on the passenger lower control arm mounting bolt. Going to try tightening everything up and see if that takes care of it. Been keeping a close eye on all fasteners as I start daily driving it. The AC works excellent and I’m very satisfied with how the ls pcm handles the controls. Just need to take care of the clanking sound and replace the gear box with the PSC. Plenty of small little projects that are now enjoyable to do since the major stuff is finished.

These box issues are a familiar one. The pump itself is quiet, flowing well and bubble free. You can feel the feedback in the wheel from the steering box. Almost feels like those “Cruisin USA” arcade game steering wheels that would pull the wheel one way or another as you drove. The return to center is non existent and the steering is stiff only when turning left. All the steering components such as ball joints, linkage etc are all new. I’m truly starting to believe that a “rebuilt” steering box is a myth. Once they go, send em to the scrap heap. I’m running the stock C5 TC 2 steering pump which is rated at 1200 psi with the upgraded GM performance pulley. The only thing is dislike about the C5 power steering setup is the reservoir. The location is great for feeding the pump but is tough to fit your intake around. I cut and welded that bracket on every dimension possible to eliminate all but the tiniest bit of clearance between the reservoir and the engine. I’d run a PSC reservoir and TC 2 pump but there just isn’t a great spot to add that reservoir on a C5 belt drive. Chase bays has a pretty sweet little reservoir I may try someday. But I’ll see how the steering does with the PSC box. I had one on my YJ before and it was the best steering I ever had on a non-rack & pinion Jeep.

So it turns out it’s the actual steering box that is defective. It doesn’t want to return to center, it’s very tight and resists turning left badly. Ordered up a new PSC big bore box and will never again buy a rebuilt box no matter who builds it. Redhead has a pretty good reputation but this box is trash.

Once you get to about 45mph, the airflow from driving should exceed the flow of most e fans. The real test for e fans comes from idling in traffic on hot days with accessories on. The battery will provide reserve capacity but only at about 12v vs the typical 13.8-14 from the alternator. The performance difference is noticeable for e fans. Once the engine operating speed comes up, so does the alternator output and the fans may provide enough flow. The XJ/MJ just wasn’t designed to run all e fans on the stock cooling system. If the radiator capacity and efficiency is increased, the coolant passages are clean, the water pump flow is appropriately matched to the radiator capacity and engine size, then e fans could be used provided they can churn out sufficient flow under full alternator load at idle. But most setups simply can’t provide the CFM of the factory setup at idle. When idling, the engine electrical is basically at its weakest when the e fan load is at its peak. Many aftermarket manufacturers spec their fan CFM rates at specific voltage which are simply not attainable at idle with most stock MJ/XJ electrical system.

Stock electrical probably can’t supply enough amperage to keep a steady 14v to the fans when idling. The OE or similar design works best on most stock setups.

It has arrived!! Definitely need to fix the drivers side interior door pull/armrest. That’s first on the list. It runs great though. I’m going to grab an HP Tuners and adjust the speed sensor input on the PCM since I’m running the Dakota GPS speed sender. The sender is working great and gives me an accurate Speedo. The fuel gauge also appears to have resurrected and is functioning perfectly again . I’m guessing it maybe just needed a full tank and some road miles?? Funny how some bugs work themselves out. I’m not happy with my steering though. The steering is too stiff. It’s definitely some form of power steering but it’s too heavy. I’m guessing the 12:1 box with the 33’s is asking a bit too much. Will probably go with another PSC big bore box or something that gives me a better steering feel. The brakes work well and seem to be well proportioned. I can tell that I could benefit from a slightly larger master cylinder in the 1” or 1-1/16” bore range as it takes a good bit of fluid movement (aka pedal travel) to move these massive calipers. But they do work very well. I would definitely recommend this style brake setup if you have the pre-90 knuckles. Will have to get some glamour shots but here is a quick pic.

About to pick it up from the port

I wish key parts would add fenders to their offerings. We need someone to make a decent body panel

It can. The factory cooling system with the mechanical fan was sufficient when in new operating condition. Over time, coolant passages plug and cooling capacity diminishes. The mechanical fan could pull a much higher CFM than most e fans can. Converting to all e fans requires some careful planning and design changes. The aftermarket fan “upgrades” often struggle to provide adequate airflow. Then your cooling system becomes marginal. Add to that some corrosion/sludge in the coolant passages and/or an engine that has started to run lean and you have a recipe for overheating. Under hood temps in the engine bay are also difficult to manage so all these issue can compound and ruin an engine. Not saying that is what happened in your case but it does seem to be common.