Warren99

Got the HVAC off and new heater core + evap core in. Couple of questions tho. -The heater core seemed slightly larger, and didn't come with foam rubber stuff that would keep it from coming into contact with the plastic box. So I peeled as much of the old stuff off the old heater core and tried using it, but then the heater core appeared to be sticking up too high. So I took the rubber stuff back out and I think the core still slightly touched the top but it's not really bulging. Is this an issue? Is it gonna melt the box? -The evap core was different in design(passages are travelling 90 degrees compared to oem, and they are thin and wide, opposed to just being tubes). Despite not having a tap for 2 screws to hold it in place, it still fit nice and snug. The real issue I might have is with the probe thing that slid into the original one. I simply bent it around the side, then stuck it in between the fins. Will it still work properly? And what is it, the blower motor switch or something? I have the whole HVAC box screwed back together. I'm waiting on input on these potential problems before I put it back in the next chance I get.

For the longest time my controls wouldn't leave the defroster until I eventually found my accumulator ball and reconnected it, which then resulted in what I have now, where it works unless I am under throttle. I have a whole new system and ball that I got with the cruise control from an 87 Chief. I was going to put that whole thing in and see if it fixes it. Right now, I have the entire dash off so if there was any potential cause for this problem on the HVAC box I wanted to look before putting the new dash on.

Ok thank you.

Ah ok. I'll just turn each stud a bunch then and see where it takes me.

I have since began tearing apart my actual truck, rather than the parts one which is now gone. I'm at the point of having to remove my hvac box to install my new evap core and heater core. Unfortunately, so far every stud I have touched on the firewall in the engine bay is spinning with the nut. If I put vice grips on(channel locks are too big), they hold still for maybe 1/3 of the way off, but then tighten up again and just slip. If I remove the resevoir and emissions thing off the fender, I can get to most of them a lot easier, and maybe make something else work. -Is there some way to get to the studs from the inside of the truck some how? Or any other easy method?

When driving with the air on, it seems using more than 20% throttle is enough to force all of the vacuum motors to close, making the air come out of the defroster, then they return to how they are supposed to be when I let off the gas. I assume this is the product of a vacuum leak somewhere. I haven't really checked under the hood yet, but right now my whole interior and dash is out, so is there anything I can look for/test on the HVAC box since I have access to it? Figured if there was a time it would be now. Also, there is this big hole diagonally above and to the left of both my fuse block and hood latch cable. What is this for? What is the best way to plug it? Will it be easy to find factory plugs for it from XJ's at the junkyard?

Thank you, I'm pretty sure that's the exact one I was thinking of

Thank you

For a while my parking brake wouldn't catch on the ratchet, and therefore just didn't work. I've been tearing my interior apart recently and noticed suddenly its working again. Could the hood latch or kicker panel have possibly been pushing on something which was releasing the teeth?

I swear I remember seeing a thread about how to install a rear window, but I can't find it. Is there one or am I imagining things? I'd like to get my new window installed sometime this week bc my other one is leaking worse. I know part of the install involves some kinda thick rubber glue stuff, not sure what it is tho.

I don't think rear fender flares were mentioned yet. Also, leaf springs, especially long bed and metric ton springs.

Over the weekend I got the whole interior stripped, did some work on the floors, and got sound deadening and the carpet in. I think the carpet came out pretty nice. I'll probably have to pull it back out for something I forgot tho. Next on the list is to install my new heater core and evap core, search around for and fix leaks, and then I can start putting the black dash in.

I want to paint mine this color and get those pioneer decals, but I'm a long way off from painting it lol

Thanks. I've always said I'm gonna keep upgrading it and using it til one day it's either gonna go full on beater rock crawler, or gonna make it really nice.

Yeah, for rare parts as long as you can afford it, just grab them, and if you want someone else to get better use out of them, sell them for what you paid for it. And in the case of those taillights for example, if you get them and hold onto them waiting to find someone who needs them, you never know what could happen to yours, then you'll have a spare set.

Oh I thought you were talking about the XJ chrome bumper lol

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Yea if there's gonna be any rust it's gonna be the passenger side floor

Not sure, that's the one thing I somehow forgot to check, but I got the build sheet from JMO and apparently it was originally a California car. The hood was like binding almost like it was hitting the cowel so I didn't force it, but it seemed like everything was there. Thats what I'm hoping for. I'm confident in the interior bc there isn't a single burn or tear on the seats, those should come out nice!

I mean worst case there is some good parts from it, I don't really think I would need any parts off it tho

Yea I wasn't planning on going a dime over 1k. Sucks that it's 2wd, but I figured as long as it aint rusty, the Laredo helps make it worth more

I finally stopped by to ask about an XJ that's been sitting for as long as I can remember. It's a 1990 Laredo, 2wd automatic. I only was able to take a quick glance, as the owner is currently living with someone else while his nephew is watching over their property. What I'm hoping for is that it doesn't run. Being a 4.0 with 168k miles, I can probably get it running. I'm thinking that the paint might come out decent, but am more hopeful for the interior to come around pretty nice with a good cleaner that I have. - If it doesn't run and I'm able to get it for cheap, what's a realistic price I could sell it for after I get it running and clean it up real nice? I don't want to just flip it right away, I think it could be a decent daily, but if I had to I wanna make sure I don't have more into it than what the realistic selling price is. Also, I think I can get some white fender flares from the junkyard.

I mean I don't see why it wouldn't

What are dak lights? And I just wanted at least one pair of OEM Fog lights. I actually still have the one fog light cover from the Chief which I would assume is also for an ROL

Got a few things from Pull-a-part ATL South today. Most significant find was some ROL lights. I remember reading a thread about the 3 different types of OEM fog lights but I don't remember anything about them, besides ROL being most prone to rust, and I couldn't find the thread. I got them off of an 87 XJ Laredo. The chrome bumper was pretty straight and I debated getting it, but they made a custom frame strengthener thing, and drilled right through the front of the bumper to mount it. Center console is gone, pretty sure all of the inside door handles were gone, the door skins were in "usable" condition at least. All of the power window guts seemed to be there. Not really to fond of Dakotas, but they don't look that bad. Here is an LE, with seemingly what was probably every interior option you could get, as well as a v8. I was tempted to get the bench seat, but it's still there if anyone else wants it. I know Dakota lights aren't MJ lights, but would they be worth getting and trying to sell if they are in this condition? Funnily enough this dude rolled up to the junkyard in a really clean Dakota convertible, 1 of 3,759 according to a quick google search. Never thought I'd see one of those.