Backroads

I saw it brought up in a build thread on here about differences in the brakes from CAD and non CAD axles. It seemed like someone was saying to keep the original style brakes off the original axle, when swapping in a newer non disco axle? Is that right? I was planning on just leaving the brakes on the axle I have and plumbing them up that way. Just wanted to post up and make sure I'm not missing something here!

Looks good. I think before the cap goes back on you should give it a paintjob (the cap that is)

is there a vin decoder like that floating around for 1980+ MFG jeeps Now thats got me curious to verify my mj is still as it was when it left the factory!

Havent got too much done lately, but made a nice discovery today. Pulled the bed liner out to see how much rust was underneath AND :bowdown: Image Not Found Image Not Found the tailgate looks like hell, but the rest looks like original paint, and never had anything BUT the liner put into it.

:cheers: Awesome progress! My brother runs the treks Y link....top quality stuff!

With 260 K and it being towed, its a good chance that its just 'tow mileage' Not sure how that works as far as racking up miles, but my dad has a TJ that had WAY high miles, with the same story and it runs like a top and looks brand new.

x2 lol

cheaper! http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product ... c6c072cfce

I's be on my way to see it! I'd be willing to bet she wouldnt know an engine from a trans from a tire.

I've found other minor compatibility issues between 86/87 era MJ's to 88+. So its quite possible there are differences in the harnesses.

Your saying the MC is empty at the rear reservoir? That means its something to the front brake lines, the smaller part in the front of the MC is for the rear brakes. Try filling it up, and pump the brakes and have someone (or if its leaking that bad YOU will see it) but watch underneath and see where the leak might be. If no leaks I'm gonna say the MC, and while your at it booster, are bad and need replaced.

I was actually thinking about doing that myself! The nice thing about the WJ is they have an full lenth tie rod, thats actually pretty beefy, it goes from knuckle to knucke instead of draglink to knuckle like ours is stock. There would probably have to be a lot more mods than just a simple knuckle swap though. Some other parts to think about are going to be your draglink (probably should take the WJ one as well) your anti-sway bar connects are gonna interfere most likely, and your stabilizer is also gonna be in the way. Basically I THINK (and I could be wrong) your gonna need to just relocate a bunch of stuff. My wife has a WJ, I'll have to study it a little closer before any of what I said is put in stone, If I get a chance I'll post up some picture differences.

Nice I was much the same and actually a week before taking ownership of my MJ, I finally sold what will turn out to be my last honda for a good long time. I hear ya on the money pit, my last one was an SOHC vitara build cos it was somewhat cheaper to do haha! I actually sold the DA to a guy out your way, I think he was closer to pittsburg but definately western PA, so its very possible youve seen that car around.

I've done a couple myself, only in the older style of 'enamel' like single stage paint. I actually used rustoleum paint and thinned it out, sprayed with an HVLP gun. I did it in my dusty dirty garage, and I was happy with the results for around $200! Wasnt showroom professional, but it was always on older cars so it fit the bill. I prepped forever, took time to mask everything and make sure it was free of dirt and everything else. I sanded in between coats to smooth it out, and sanded final coat with up to around 2000 grit. here's a pic of one I did, this was before clear coating (which I never got around to doing) it was sanded and waxed. Not exactly a JEEP, but still... Image Not Found I'm not saying this way is your best option, but simply that its definately possible to get a good finish DIY.

is it just the 2 nuts you see there that need removed? then bleed the line through th bleeder I see? almost would be worth it to cut a little trapdoor out!

I vote for the CROK brace setup, even if you decide to go with an aftermarket bumper, it still works as a tie in point to your frame. The cross brace is good, but doesnt really help the fact that the box is bolted to thin metal, which is the area most prone to failure when put under stress.

Did you make that front bumper?

U bolts and all rear suspension parts are tight? Sounds pretty un-nerving!! Sounds like your having a death wobble style issue coming from the rear end! If thats the case I' check into any rear 'link' areas, leaf spring bushings and bolts etc.

'86 was different. I don't remember if it changed in '87 or '88. very correcto as I found out. I actually just cut the plug off of my tape deck that was in the jeep, and spliced the new head unit into that. Of course there were a few spare wires, but it works fine! The wires were all color coded the same for the most part. After doing that its just plug and play.

so I got the WJ master cylinder and booster in. Pretty much went as planned. Its an improvement in that I now have brakes, but not exactly the amazing stopping power I was expecting. here's how the old one looked....regardless I'm glad that leaky sucker is out of there, I think it was working on growing some legs to climb out. Image Not Found Image Not Found its sitting out by the garage, I hope the local cat comes and licks it! New booster in place, here you can see where I massaged the firewall some to make it fit. Image Not Found I made sure to cut the lines extra long at the JY so I would have to buy yet another tool to learn to 'bubble flare' the stupid foreign metric CRAP jeep uses these days :fool: So all I needed to do, was add a double flare to the prop valve side of the lines plus they have snazzy little flex lines built in so its got a little wiggle room Image Not Found Pedal was pretty much even height with the clutch pedal before the swap, its a little lower now, but not by much Image Not Found Working on getting my holey muffler replaced I have an inspection appt on monday!!!!!!!

Looks good! I wish my garage had that much space to work!!!

BMJA, does that mean your in PA? If so theres Eastern Marine down in newark DE. They sell all kinds of trailer building materials (mostly boat oriented, but still axle blanks) I was down and got a new axle for my boat last year and I was amazed at all the stuff they had! I remember some pretty beefy axle tubes that would probably work for your application, then they also had hubs with different lug patterns so I guess its possible to find what ya need as far as that goes.

nevermind! Little digging and I found Eagle on naxja saying just what I suspected. eagle: There were two styles with full instruments and mechanical speedos. I haven't been able to verify if the change was mid-year in the 1987 model run, or if the change came with the introduction of the 1988 model run. If you have an '88, a cluster from an '88, '89 or '90 should fit. Beware of anyone saying a cluster fits '87 thru '90, because it doesn't work that way. Get a flashlight and perhaps a mirror and stick your head up under your dashboard. What you're looking for is the connection from the speedo cable to the speedo. If it has a metal push-on sleeve with a thin black metal retaining clip, that's a "Type I" speedo (basically the 1987 style). If the speedo cable ends in a white nylon push-on connector with NO retainer clip, that's a Type II cluster for 1988 thru 1990. Everything else is interchangeable and the electrical connections will plug in. Either one requires replacing the oil pressure and coolant temperature senders if you're going from idiot lights to full gauges. You can make either cluster work in the "wrong" year by replacing the speedo cable. __________________

Got a cluster from what had a build date of 89, to swap into my 86 with dummy lights. Everything was good except the speedo cable is different where it connects to the back of the speedo gauge. I didn't really pay attention to that at the JY or I would have known better! On mine its a metal tab that locks the cable in place, on the new one its got a ring groove around it, and from pics I've seen it has plastic tab on it that locks it into place. Without doing major modification to my truck (don't care about the cluster) is there any way to make it work? I also thought of just swapping the old gauge into my newer cluster, but the bolt holes are different and the gauge doesnt sit in it right! Thanks for any advice.

found that out with mine! 2.5L with 3.55's