coolwind57

Got them installed now. Truck runs well, although I still think my idle seems a tiny bit off. That was there to begin with however. Died one time as I first began backing up, but hasn't died since in the short couple of mile I drove her afterwards. If this is no placebo effect, it does seem a bit more responsive at all speeds, taking off as well as stompin' down to pass in the hammer lane. I suppose at this point, I'm happy with my VitaMotor 746 injectors. PRICE IS KILLER!!

Almost makes me consider buying an extra just to have around.

Not a bad idea before I install them tomorrow. Thanks

For those curious, here's what the Yitamotor 746 injectors look like upon arrival: No scratches or wear areas. They do in fact appear to be new. They have the same manufacturing numbers seen on the Bosch Volvo 746 injectors: 1275194 & 0 280 155 746. I still can't figure out if they're made by Bosch or they're an aftermarket clones manufactured by Yitamotor. Can't find anything on internet to verify. Anxious to see if I'll be happy or if I'll return to get my $56 back.

Oh there's no doubt about the leak at the down pipe. The down pipe practically dangles below the collector. Could very well be a header leak too, but exhaust gushes from the collector joint. Some years had no donut gasket, so that's why I was asking about whether or not 89s had them.

I've searched around the forum and other places, but can't really seem to get a definitive answer. I have an exhaust leak at the down pipe/collector joint. The joint is very loose. Two questions: 1. Does my 1989 4.0 have a donut gasket at the down pipe/collector? 2. What's holding the joint together, studs or bolts? I'd like the thought of tightening the two nuts to try to fix my exhaust leak there this weekend, but I need to use the truck and I'm worried I'll break those very rusty fasteners and ruin my weekend hauling plans. If those are bolts holding the joint together, then I'm probably ok if I break them....easy fix--unless there is a donut gasket in there that will need replacement. Then maybe not a quick fix. If they're studs, then the repair is a bit more complicated. I may wait and get it all done when I can afford to have an exhaust shop to make me a custom non-crush down pipe. Truck has a cat delete by the way. Single O2 is still there above the collector. Anyone know how for sure how this area was done on 89 models?

yes, I did see your fix, as your website is a common reference guide for my beloved Renix MJ ownership. I do like the way you used a secured fitting inside the throttle body. Seems more solid and permanent going into the TB as apposed to my re-use of the existing stock "rubber plug" that secures the tube in place. I do like the use of my copper tubing, however as I feel that it is superior in durability to plastic tubing. At the time, I had no intention of pulling the TB and replacing my broken plastic vacuum tubing with copper also made for a quicker repair. Two different ways to skin a cat. I like both strategies. Personally, I think a guy with his TB off should combine the two methods. I may do that one day.

I hard-lined that sucker using copper tubing. Much more resilient than that whoosie plastic tube. Will do. I receive injectors tomorrow and plan on installing on Saturday.

Man, I went ahead and ordered these today from Amazon. Yes, there's a risk, but they have a pretty good return policy if I'm not happy with them. Amazon buyers gave them pretty good reviews overall. They're only $56 bucks for the set, so I'll be the guinea pig here and let you know how they do.

My Krustyballer bumper, showing license plate hitch mount. I bought license plate bolt LED lights and installed in the bottom holes to make it all legal and stuff. Used existing MJ bullet connectors that are already factory installed.

I almost bought the Nate's bumper till I ran into this guy. Thanks, krustyballer16. I'm very happy with this better built rear bumper. Also, I totally dig the hitch-mounted license plate mount that you built in addition for me.

I had been keeping an eye out for an Original MOPAR TPS for a long time now that didn't cost $145. Just bought one from this auction for $29.99. Seems he has plenty of them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183038476803

Four port, just like Bosch. Amazon web site shows good pics. They look straight-up like Bosch 746s, with the same manufacturer's part number. I'm dying to know if anyone has any experience with them. They're sold as new and the inexpensive price entices me and worries me at the same time.

Holy cow, yes you lucked out as well. My Dad pulled up just as this happened to me. He advised me to crank her over and maybe I'd luck out. I was too chicken to try that. I was already emotionally destroyed by what had just happened. I didn't want it to go tragically any worse. Glad it all over and I'm ok.

Anyone ever used them? Sounds like a Bosch 746 clone or something. They run new on Amazon for $55.99 for a set of 6. I'm intrigued. Listed part number is 0280155746. https://www.amazon.com/Injector-YITAMOTOR-Injectors-1995-1998-0280155746/dp/B01N302XMZ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517190390&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Bosch+0280155746+injectors

Strange. I have yet to find anything on my truck that shows that it had ever been worked on or modified/updated. It had just shy of 100K miles on it when I bought it back in August/September. Bone stock. Someone had bypassed the height sensing valve, but that's about it. Do these black pieces (plastic?) ever just come off on their own? Curious of what they look like and if they have a replacement part #.

Yep. Did it. Here's the deal for those no so familiar with working on your CPS. There is a "shelf" on your bellhousing just an inch or so below your lower CPS bolt. That shelf is OPEN! In other words, it is not covered by anything, so either CPS bolt can drop in it if you're not extremely careful. I'm not talking about worrying about the bellhousing opening created after you remove your CPS, but its there even when your CPS is fully installed. Here's what happened to me: Upon reading about CPS removal, I found advise that said to remove the top bolt first. That way, there's less chance of it falling inside the hole that CPS removal creates. So I did that. Just when the bolt cleared it's hole, my socket slipped off and the bolt dropped onto that lower shelf that I described above. Well, no big deal I thought, so I reached up with my fingers to grab it and it fell into an opening that I wasn't expecting to be there. With disturbing thoughts of having to pull my transmission, and thus delaying my work for another Month or two, I laid there in disbelief of what had just happened. I then realized that I could remove the lower flywheel cover and I prayed that the bolt had fallen all the way to the bottom of the bellhousing. Upon removal of the cover, I could not locate it. I wanted to throw up. I jabbed my pinkey finger in there to feel around and by the grace of GOD I located it. I actually had to pry the flywheel against the bellhousing to make clearance for the bolt head. Grabbing it with needle-nose pyers, I pulled it out as if I were a surgeon. I almost cried with joy when I was reunited with my dropped bolt. I used the black tape method of re-installation on each bolt (place a piece of electrical tape over socket opening then push your bolt head into it---holds it really well). So newbies, learn from this:. Protect those two specialty bolts from dropping at all times; maintain positive control!!. This job kinda sucked to begin with, but my big mishap cost me an additional hour and a heck of a lot of stress and disgust.

I pulled that circuit breaker as well as all the other fuses and relays from a junkyard MJ last Summer. They didn't even charge me, as I had them scattered about in my wheel barrel and kind of forgot about them when i made my way to the PAY UP line. I now keep them in a ziplock in my glovebox. Anyhow, I used the junkyard circuit breaker to test my inoperable wipers I experienced last Month. So glad I have my spares, man. Yank those suckers next time you're near a junker. You'll be glad you did.

I second all that. I did a front proportional valve delete for my brakes and love the results. I have pics for a write up. Identifying location and describing function and troubleshooting of each vacuum/electrical/mechanical component under the hood. Like Skorpyo said, it sure would cut down on commonly asked questions and really help out newbies.

I had thought of having a white roof, just as a two-tone type of look as well as it helping to lower temperatures in the cab in the Summer. White roofs remind me of the old 60s-70s Chevrolet/GMC trucks that I thought looked cool back in the day. I love the true two-tones of the 50s as well. Although in reverse, I do kind of appreciate his differentiating roof color thinking here--but I don't think it works quite as well as two solid colors with white on roof. Hey, the guy probably loves his paint scheme as much as I love mine. Shouldn't matter to us what others think. We're all created unique in our individual tastes. Its just nice to see that he appreciated and loved his MJ enough to care for it and put a lot of time into it.

welcome!

I'm in nearly the same boat, my friend. VERY low idle, which stalls and sometimes dies at traffic lights once I begin to accelerate. I think what got me to this was not flooding as in your case, but a fuel tank replacement. I think I screwed something up with all of the hour-long engine cranking I did to get the engine to start. Hasn't been the same since. Must of fried something. I picked up a new CPS but hadn't had time to try it yet. Using a different cleaned throttle body, different adjusted TPS and different IAC (all used) didn't help. My plan is to toss on the new CPS, and if that doesn't help, then multimeter-check TPS, EGR, CPS. If that doesn't identify and help, then its time for me to load that cannon. Frustrating I know.

I dig the headliner. I'm partial to having something more interesting than standard, factory solid colors. That's interesting that you have a center rear dome light. Looks like you added that. And that thing in between your sun visors is perhaps a map light? Stock?

Now that I have snow, I was anxious to give my 4wd a workout. Uh-oh. Houston, we have a problem. It was about 0-degrees F. I placed my shifter into both 4wd High and Low and got some very disturbing sounds. Sounded like some popping and cracking and clanging. It did seem to engage, but made this noise that immediately alarmed me. I tried 3-4 times and got the same result. One of those times, I couldn't get the shifter to physically come out of 4wd at all. It took a lot of messing around, shutting engine off and restarting and fiddling with lever to get it back to 2wd. I'd run this 4wd at least a Month or two ago and had absolutely no problems. As many of you know, I'm pretty new to MJs so now I get the pleasure of finding out about the CAD system and how it works (and doesn't). Not yet sure if my issue is CAD just yet, as I'm locking inside till my bronchitis clears but I already see a single axle swap in my future. Just sucks that my 4x4 system let me down during the exactly climate conditions in which I bragged that the truck would absolutely excel in.

Last week, I finally got around to installing some fog/driving lights that I picked up a few weeks ago at the junkyard. They appeared to be quite new on the XJ that I found them on, so I snagged them for a cool $5 or $10. Not really a fog light kind of guy, but I found myself going back and looking at that XJ in the yard and convinced myself that they look cool enough to pull and put on The Warrior. Also found brighter amber corner lenses and installed them too.