coolwind57

I'm still struggling with this problem. I had wrapped the injectors, thinking that I was getting some vapor lock or something. Last night, I performed another Cruiser54 coil contacts refresh ( as I had done six Months ago). Checked and cleaned all wire contacts in that whole area of the coil. Pulled my $25 distro cap and cleaned all contacts. Fired her up (again after excessive cranking) and pulled each injector wire to listen for engine drop, thinking that I maybe had a bad injector. Each injector connector pulled resulted in that minor engine rpm drop. I suppose the next step is to go rent a pressure gauge and see what's going on at the fuel rail. The strong fuel smell is often embarrassing when my engine comes to life after this excessive cranking. I find myself parking away from others. Would pressure drop cause excessive cranking and heavy odor upon start? The thing is: i don't get this every single time. Probably about 75% of the time now, whether engine is cold or warm, been sitting for a few days or setting for 10 minutes. Can't pinpoint a pattern. Do I need to recheck all of my throttle body component settings, AIC/TPS? Does this sound like a TB butterfly index problem, maybe? Engine runs like a scolded dog when she does fire up. Idle seems fine and highway speed behaviors are great. Anything that perhaps I'm missing or should try at this point?

Removing the cat and/or an EGR system IS a valid comparison as Eagle and my topic of conversation was about legality. If you go back and read his input, legality was exactly his point. As for safety, you may have valid concerns. This is something that should be considered by anyone doing such modifications from stock.

Straight forward. Cut at each end. Weld a replacement pipe to fill the gap. You may have to do this yourself, as shops will likely refuse. But first, check your laws and assess your legal risks--some local and state laws may inspect for registrations, transfers or emissions, etc. I bought my MJ from a guy in Southern Illinois and the CAT was already removed. I had no issue with transfer and licensing/registration here in Southern Indiana. There's no testing or inspection here. BTW, go ahead and expect chastising from some for even asking that here. Ha!

Its also illegal to remove the catalatic converter. And EGR deletes. I suppose I'd be in big trouble if my State cared about a 1989 Jeep Comanche sitting in a driveway in rural Georgetown, Indiana. I don't know if you're in a minority as you question Eagle, but I think there's plenty of people out there doing mods to these 30-year old vehicles that don't match laws that many States care enough to hunt down and enforce. Perhaps those reading Cruiser54 and my posts on this procedure, will also read your "Do at your own risk" legal concern also, just as they should prior to performing the other illegal mods than some do.

Cool idea. With I had thought of that when I had to drop my transmission a couple Months ago.

No, no State safety inspections here in Southern Indiana. I assume the wires running to the old MJ proportioning valve ran a brake warning light. So if that's the case, then yes I no longer have an indicator light. So, my front brakes are completely independent of my rears and vice versa. Since I did this mod, which Cruiser54 had done similarly to several vehicles, I had experienced one issue that provided me a trial opportunity. I happen to blow a front caliper piston seal once early on while out and about. Yes, my pedal lowered closer to the floor, but I was still able to drive home (with caution of course) just fine with 3 brakes only. I placed a small c-clamp on the effected front brake hose, got home and put both new calipers up front. My Speedway APV for my rear brakes so far has been set only to "fully open" on its dial. I've had no need to adjust it. It's a valve, which will by it's nature adds a bit of a restriction but essentially, I'm running with bare minimal restriction to the rears. And certainly to the front brakes without the orifice restrictions of the stock MJ proportioning valve. I'm stock master cylinder and mechanical brakes (front and rear), by the way.

I ran a single new brake line to a new (OEM) rubber line, mounted just below the bottom of the bed. That soft flex line then splits at the axle to go to each of my drums.

My original plan was to install an adjustable proportioning valve (APV) inside my cab, but I changed my mind and instead installed under the hood near the master cylinder. I had completely removed my MJ factory proportioning valve and replaced with a full-open brass "T" (inverted-flare) for the front brakes. I deleted all of the old system for the rear drums and ran a new single line through an APV back to the rear drums. My Speedway APV was set full open throttle and I have no issues with quick braking with an empty nor heavy payload, so far. I've had no need to make any adjustments, with varying loads since I installed this custom brake system about 6-Months ago. Having no idea if whether or not I needed one at the time of install, I put in an APV just in case. I'm using stock front and rear brakes, with stock master cylinder. Just thought I'd share my experience on this topic. Couldn't be happier with my brake system mod and I thank Cruiser54 for the idea.

Well, I nearly always lean towards function over beauty, but in this case I"m looking for aesthetics. Driving lights on my MJ were installed solely because of looks. I don't off-road much and I certainly am not a "mudder." I only grabbed these square ones from an junkyard XJ because i saw them and I felt they might look really cool on my MJ. I may use them more in the Winter, as days are short and if I'm in the woods, but since I've wired my squared ones I think I may have actually turned them on maybe twice. For me and my use, it's how they look. Glad you posted a pic. Yea, I don't think they look good. Too large AND they are round. Just doesn't do anything for me. Agreed. Thank you for your opinions, fellas. I'll see if I can't eBay or Craigslist the Hellas.

Sounds good, thanks. So to clarify: pop the plug wires off, mark orientation of block and distro base, maybe remove a bolt and cup washer from the block (if these engines are like most older setups), and pull distro straight out, right?

Which looks better, these vintage Hella 500s that a buddy just gave me, or stick with the already-installed square driving lights? The Hellas are retro cool, but I'm not sure I like going round when everything else on my truck is square-themed.

Got my Sasquatch rocker switch for my driving lights installed. I laugh every time I look down at them. hilarious

Slick. Good thinking.

I hadn't had the time to go rent a fuel pressure gauge and check pressure leak down yet. I have all new O-rings installed when I did my recent work, even though the ones that came on them seemed ok. There are no visible injector leaks. I bought the Yitamotor brand-new 746 injectors back about 4-Months ago.

What all is involved in replacing my distributor gasket? Side of my engine block is still oily after I rebuilt my oil filter adapter. Seems like a cheap repair, so I thought I'd try it next. It's not a bad leak, but its not dry, which bothers me. I've not done this before. Whats my steps and how badly can I screw this up?

Well, just racking my brain trying to figure out why the problem arose after I did all the work recently--freeze plugs, manifolds mods, exhaust work, etc. Didn't have this issue prior to that. It's warmer now. Maybe climate-related....

Ok, it's been three days now since I wrapped my inner two 4-hole fuel injectors. I used camper foam covered in aluminum duct tape (its what I had on hand). It seems to be working, I'm happy to say. I now will go ahead and wrap the other four injectors. I suppose that I was getting some vapor lock. I recall reading about this somewhere and thought I'd give this a try. Glad I did, as it seems to be alleviating the problem. I had began to notice that it seemed to happen more when the engine was warm. It usually did much better in the morning after it had been sitting all night. Anyhow, if this was indeed my problem, then I wonder if it has something to do with me deleting my EGR system. I had plugged my crack-repaired Renix exhaust header at the EGR tube port and I did the same for the intake manifold.

Turbo it for best exhaust tone:

Seems guys are getting pretty creative with the color selections available over at MonstaLiner. Here's some color combo pics for you:

Hang in there bro. The solution to my running issues took several weeks but I felt great once I finally got it solved.

Interesting. Drive to S. Indiana and save nearly $2, fiatslug87.

Yep. Appreciate you sharing your build. I'm diggin' it.

I'm wiring in my fog lights soon and I couldn't resist ordering this one:

Predator is LOUD, man! Barbaric and Road rash are too. Muddfoot has a pretty intense green on his too. I'm anxious to see pics when you get er' done. Timing during the application process is critical. Be on top of your game when the day comes to apply. I have some air bubbles that I wish I had my wife with me to check and correct, but I was on my own on that day. Grab a wife or a buddy to locate areas that need attention as you apply. Change rollers often (I bought extra). By the way, MonstaLiner's color "Sans Panties" cracks me up. Why on Earth....and the actual color they chose for this name.....WTH?!

Some guys spend $200-300 on Cold Air Intakes. I spend $4 more on an oil change. I can't think of a reason why more oil availability is a bad thing. C'mon Eagle. Let me blow my $4 so that it makes me feel happy! haha