mkbruin

Search my old posts. I threw up a chart with OEM coil springs and their rates, by coil code. It will have all the info you need.

I have an 04 Dakota Sport Quad cab with the front bench. Its a seriously comfy ride. I will absolutely put one in my next MJ.

Iron Rock has some BEEFY bars for insanely good prices.

And that's downright scary. Image Not Found

pics? Year? Engine/Trans combo?

If you have a compressor and a garage, you are FAR better off buying a can of 2-stage paint for ~$75, a $15 HVLP gun from Harbor Freight, and $5 worth of plastic dropcloth and masking paper from Home Depot. I am of the opinion that rattle can jobs RARELY look passable at best.

FIFY

Also stock on 31's

Based on that description, I would guess its just a t-stat that got stuck closed. Although, its never a bad idea to go through the whole system if you're breaking into it. 1) 2 or 3 core radiator ($130-200, depending on sales) 2) water pump. $30. Also take the time to replace the most-likely corroded metal output. 3) Coolant overflow tank (if staying closed-system). Runs ~$12, comes with a new cap. Or, its pretty easy to swap to an open system, especially if you are going through the swap process. Of course, you can also probably get by with a $3 t-stat and $10 worth of coolant. Watch out for those air bubbles though. My old 89, I would *think* about driving up to the mountains and it would overheat. A GDI 3-core solved ALL my issues. Pre-3core, frequent trail stops.

My new favorite JY: http://www.upullandpay.com/default.aspx It even has an online inventory of vehicles on the lot for their locations. Denver: 1 1987, 1 1990 Aurora: 1 1987 CO Spr: 1 1986, 1 1988 So, 5 to chose from in a 30 minute radius... that I know of. There are other yards without inventory that also usually have them. Are we that lucky?

1) Wrangler: did not receive the AX/15 till 1991. From 87-90 had the 4.2 carbed engine and puke-goat. The clocking will make life difficult for you when installing. 2) 231: the 231 behind the pugeot has a different spline count than the AX15, and will not work without mod. 3) best course of action is XJ AX/231 combo. Best if you get it complete from bellhousing to crossmember to tailhousing. Should be able to pick up a combo for a couple hundred bucks.

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I just don't really get the Salvage posts. MJ's seem to appear pretty frequently at the u-pull-n-save yards here in Denver....

This is no surprise for anyone who was paying attention back in '06. The Rampage concept was based on the yet-to-be-unveiled RT (07+ minivan) platform. Many of the features in the rampage are expected to make production, including: - the folding bulkhead (ala Avalanche) - stow-n-go rear seating for a flat load floor - The three-position tailgate can be deployed upright, folded down 98 degrees, or dropped further to an angle of 117 degrees. In this position a stored-in-the-tailgate slide-out ramp can be extended to the ground to permit easy loading of wheeled cargo like motocross bikes, ATVs, etc. - Hidden compartment under bed foor that can accomodate 4x8 sheets

I can't help the immediate issue, but I would recommend a third switch (hidden if possible) to the fuel pump. No fuel means no start means no stealing. From what I found: "the GREEN wire is the starter & the YELLOW is the ignition coil. So I hooked up a toggle & push-button to those, and BA-DA-BING! Keyless ignition." Diagram: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost ... stcount=10 http://bellsouthpwp2.net/b/o/bottlework ... agrams.pdf

What's the ultimate goal here? Camping van? Cross country hauler? Here's what I have started looking into:

LCAs ?? what is that :dunce: LCA-lower control arm UCA-Upper control arm

Spend the extra $130 and pony up for an adjustable trackbar. Don't forget you need need shocks. Agree on the adjustable LCAs.

The skid will only sit closer on vehicles with pugeot transmissions. Any 87+ auto or 89+ manual should be the same as XJs.

Links, ends, and mounting points. Poly sells just the brackets if you want to burn/bend your own links.

Personally, there are only three kits I would look at: 1) budget. Iron Rock Offroad. $600, and pretty solid. I hear good things about it. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant ... y_Code=PFX 2) Knock the daylights out if it tough. TNT Customs. $980 http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Cherokee ... grade.aspx 3) Custom. Poly Performance. 3-link (weld on) is $940, 4-link (bolt on) is $1120 http://polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy ... -1311.html vs RE arms

Correct. You can even reuse the 1/2" D35 stock u-bolts if you need to as long as they are fairly new and in good shape. The D44s came with 9/16" u-bolts. This is absolutely false. NEVER re-use U-bolts. They cost a couple bucks, and its a safety issue. The experts: U-Bolts provide the clamping force needed to hold the springs to the axle. Whenever springs are replaced or repaired, the u-bolts should be replaced. The threads on most u-bolts are not cut, they are rolled. When the U-bolts are tightened, the threads are deformed by the nuts. Obtaining the proper torque (clamping force) can never be achieved when reusing old u-bolts. The weakest part of any spring leaf is at the hole where the center bolt goes through the leaves. Correctly torqued U-bolts make the center section of the spring immobile. Any, repeat, any, movement in the area of the center bolt will cause the spring to break in this area. Never use lock washers because they can break. Also never use soft metal washers on U-bolts because they will deform under torque. Both cases will cause the nuts to loosen and will cause the spring to fail from breakage within the u-bolt area. Always use hardened washers or flange nuts. Reusing old u-bolts is penny wise and pound foolish. (this means you are cheap) Torque specs shown are only recommendations. You should always follow your vehicle's manufacturer's recommendations. Rod Diameter 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" 9/16" 5/8" 3/4" 7/8" 1" 1 1/8" 1 1/4" Torque in ft-lbs 30 45 65 90 125 300 480 730 1,300 1,740 Always re-torque the newly installed u-bolts after 50 miles of driving. Then recheck after another 50 miles. Then again after 500 miles. Finally, recheck the u-bolt torque every time you are under the vehicle. Remember - Tight u-bolts will extend a spring's life. http://www.eatonsprings.com/tipinsertsr ... bolts.html

I would love to get into a ZJ phase, but can't stand the trans/t-case options. Having gone through a couple MJ's and a TJ, Right now I am on my third XJ (have 2 at the moment). I think I'll skip the ZJ and go straight to the 4.7 WJ, the 545re's are proving to be VERY dependable.

A complete, new in box set for d30 and Chryco 8.25 just sold on NAXJA for $50. I would post over there for Wanted or in the regional section... someone is sure to have something and be willing/able to help you out.

The IRO is beefy, and well worth the $$$. If you plan to go bigger, I would even drop the extra $50 on the HD trackbar they offer. For 3", you are fine with the TRE-style. Forget the spacers, go with something solid.