whowey

Nice looking truck. Hopefully you don't have alot of mud-running in your plans. Those MTR's aren't called MudskaTeRs for nothing.

Umm, 21 out of 24. I think I had better get working.

After my Uber-Negative experiences with the sway bar disconnects, they hold a place on my 'permanent non-buy' list.

I really miss my 242, in our lovely midwestern weather. The 249 in my ZJ is close but I don't like the VC.

Hey, I just noticed the sig. 4.7l? What was swapped in?

MJ-lover---> Your airflow diagram is incorrect. I used state of the art technology(a big pile of oak leaves). and opened the sliding rear glass. Going down the road, leaves were whirling around and flying in the open Rear window.

'Computer controlled' is kinda a misnomer for the AW-4. It consists of one TCU, and one plug. The TCU is self contained, and its not really a big deal. The TPS on the motor is different also. A puke-goat uses a three pin, and a AW-4 uses a 4 pin. On both of my 88's the plug for the other TPS is there.

Ha, another Illinois guy. Were going to outnumber those damn Michiganers, now!!!!

I've had over 2200 lbs of scrap in my Comanche before. Not a problem. Just got to start stopping early, and forget 5 gear. I looked at "Taj-Ma-trailers", really nice but way too expensive for a camper. One of my neighbors traded a rather nice, flatbed race trailer, on one of those type of trailers. He said its really nice for race days. He had to pick-up a wreck his son bought. He had to borrow my trailer to get it, the wreck wouldn't fit inside the new trailer.

The resistance in the fuel gauge is reversed.

Your not old enough to realize this but... If you have a good pair of underwear, you don't give them up until they simply fall off with not enough cloth left to protect you from chafing. 8)

I see we have a new Moderator here. Somehow, I now see posts about 'hacking up' MJ's dissapearing. :D Thanks Eagle, for taking on what could be a real disaster.

The XJ and the MJ are almost identical from the A-pillar forward, and 95% of the dash area. So the removal and installation would be pretty straight forward. An FSM for the layout and wiring would be invaluable. In addition to the parts you mention, You would need the idler brackets,the dryer, the A/C condensor, The correct insert for the heat box, the relays, the switches. Like I said a parts XJ would be a HUGE advantage. To have all the little pieces sitting there where you can swap pieces off of.

Yes you can. It wouldn't be terrible hard to do. The entire system would match a like year XJ. Find a wreck and get as much of the system from there. Depending on where you are at. I have a parts XJ with a working A/C.

Okay, I think I am getting this right. You have a new radio, and a new antenna, but your problem is the mount. If you are close to an interstate, take a ride to a truckstop. They will have everything you need. The mounting you are looking for is commonly called a 'gumdrop' mount. Most take a 3/4(or barely larger) hole through the roof. There will be a gasket for your roof in the kit. Answers to your questions: 1. Maybe, I'm not exactly sure what the problem is. But without actually physically seeing it, I can't answer. 2. See number 1 3. The gumdrop mount realistically is nothing more than a plastic housing with a connector and screw mount. Also see below. 4. Feel free to ask any questions. I have been fooling with radios for 20 years. I worked in the industry for two years in college. One thing, I will ABSOLUTELY NOT give you any advice regarding illegal equipment or operation. I wanted to seperate this because of its importance. Your antenna is BY FAR MORE IMPORTANT than the radio. Always get the absolutely best quality antenna that you can afford. Wilson, Firestick, and K-40 all make good antennas. Second, your feedline(coax) is important. Bad or mismatched feedline can damage your radio very quickly. Both of these reasons are why I recommend going to a truckstop, or like place and getting your stuff. I saw an auction of Ebay, for the the wrong kind of feedline advertised as 'CB-ready'. It was cable TV coax. Plus, you can purchase coax with with preconnected ends. Soldering ends on coax isn't hard, but if you do it wrong bad consequences ensue. Any more questions PM here, or post up. I will answer when I have a chance.

Its the infamous 'conversion year'. There are actually 4 different possible trannies. An auto is AW-4 But there are three possible manuals. A four-speed would be AX-4 Two possible 5-speeds. Early in the production year, you would have the BA-10 commonly referred to as the 'puke-goat', or the 'no-go' Or the AX-15 in the later part of the production year. Both are aluminum cased, but the BA-10 has a split case.

Home built bikes? Cool. Trying to synchro 6 carbs, not cool!! :D

Okay, I'll bite. What's the motor on the cradle for? Looks like a slant 6, the lifter train and cover are pretty cool looking..

If you are looking for the extra load capacity, you will also need beefier rear springs.

First, remember I am a long time car head, and I don't always do things that are completely safe. My trail rig/part-time road rig has no swaybar. About 3 months of fighting swaybar links on and off, I couldn't take it anymore. I tore the swaybar off and threw it into the junkpile. Now this rig has racked up a total of 750 miles in the last two years. Normally if I drive it, its a 14 mile round trip to work on country roads taking my sweet time. I drive slowly on the road, where I can't control the behavior of the idiots. I do not go on the interstate with it.

My wife would know, but she grew up around race cars. Unfortunately she would order chevy parts.... I forgot to add something. I got a call from the counter guy at the speedshop today. He called to ask me some questions about Renix vs. HO parts, he had someone in there with a 92 MJ, wanting to order some ignition parts. Neither one knew which system was which from the supplier catalog, and I am the only 'Jeep Dork" he could think to ask. I gave the guy the answer, got them to shove a copy of the group flyer in the guys order when it comes in. I tried to get an employee discount off my order, but it weren't happening.

You've got it right. Change the lowers to keep your pinion and steering gear angle(forgot to add that earlier). At 3" you would be at the extreme max of the trackbar. Realistically, even at 3" a change is warranted to maintain correct axle alignment. In the MJ, the trackbar keeps the front axle centered under the front end.

Only took 4 celebrations and finally got some decent swag. My dad gave me some money, a insulated flannel shirt, and a Jeep Performance Book I had been looking at. It has some nice charts in it, and some decent reference material. Unfortunately, I already found a mistake in it. It claims the 4.0l makes 225 ft.lbs of torque at 4,000 rpm. :shock:

Okay, lets kinda unwind this. First, the MJ will have either a D-44, or D-35(non C-clip). The D-44 would be under a Metric Ton MJ, or it is a swap job. The XJ should have a D-35 Non C-clip, There are rumors of some D-44's in the factory towing package, but all of the ones I have seen had the large brake drums with D-35's. First, don't get coils spacers larger than 2", the lateral forces on them are way too scary to go higher on a piece of Polyurethane. 3" is where you start having to replace front end parts. To address the track bar, you can get a relocation bracket, a longer bar, or an adjustable bar. If you expect to devolp a case of 'inchitis' get the adjustable bar. Lower links, I'm guessing you mean sway bar links. You can purchase longer ones. Steering gear, there are a few different setups you can go with. You can use a drop pitman arm, or longer draglink, or a steering relocation setup. Don't forget the brake lines. Stock YJ lines are the same fittings but a couple of inches longer than XJ/MJ lines. Above 3" you have to address the Control Arms. The angle of the pinion starts to get more severe.

I use an 85' cherokee, with the craptastic V-6. Plows my drive, three friends, and the parking lot of a small resturant a friend owns. I go slow, and easy.