ParadiseMJ

Damn, now I'm wondering if I should wear shorts or long pants today. Can you guys help me out??

At first I used the speedo gear from the OLD t-case, a 231amc. Now I have the gear from the newer 231J. The old one was too small, no contact, didn't register at all.

Boom! Thank You.

Greetings, I took the MJ to the mountains to get a couple of Christmas trees yesterday for it's first real road trip. Highway, long uphill grades, side roads, dirt roads, steep downhill grades, some distance on no roads. I used mile markers (sometimes reliable) and a GPS (poor signal in Feather River canyon) to calculate my mileage. (side note: the truck ran beeee-you-tee-fully the whole way with out a single clunk, whine or glitch) When I swapped trannys last summer (BA-10 to AW4) I also swapped in a 94 231J. I have the D30/D44 combo with 3.07 gears. I have older BFG T/A/ KO's 31x10.5 R15's all around. I know the exact mileage as I've taken the same trip, summer and winter, several times in the XJ and my sons Ranger. My mileage on the odometer says 151, round trip...but I know it's really 188 round trip. The speedo says ~48 when I'm really going 60. I figured the speedo/odo is off by ~21-22%. Can anyone tell me where to find a speedo gear calculator to correct the numbers here, and exactly which parameters I need to get it right and install the right gear??

Mine wouldn't start when I bought it, either. The PO dropped the price to $400 and delivered it 60 miles to my place on a flatbed trailer (I think he wanted to get rid of it). After 1/2 hour in my possession it was runnin' down the road. I've put 10-12K miles on it since then, through an over everything I've wanted to tackle...GET IT. Other than that...get it! I'd grab it! Yes!! GO.

I have MJ shackles on my XJ. Worked to lift the rear of the XJ a bit...I had extended shackles on the XJ but when I put the new spring pack on there it just seemed logicaL to use the MJ shackles instead of the RR ones I was running cuz I didn't like them.

If it were me I would consider my Jeep grounded until I fixed the problem. But that's just me. It seems like you'd be asking to break something else driving like that...unless it was an emergency.

After looking at the vac diagram I think that's possible. The pics of the CAD in that writeup have the switch right on the the cover. Mine doesn't. It's located on the fender... :hmm: Hmmmm.

No, here in CA you need a doctor's "recommendation". It's not really a prescription, and you don't fill it at Walgreen's. :yes: You get the Rx from a "doctor" that looks alot like Christopher Lloyd, and fill it from a place that has a pit bull for a receptionist...and bars on the windows. Or you grow it next to the tomatoes. :brows: So, back to my other question...what about the light? :hmm: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

After i swapped over my AW4/231 from a 1988 to a 1994 version this summer I had left all the vac lines off the CAD. I finally got under there this last weekend and locked the CAD over. I like it, it works, I'm very happy. I know when it's in 2wd...and I know when it's in 4H and 4L...without the benefit of a light. I don't know if I even NEED a light. That's not the question. I'll deal with the light later. Here's my question: Is it common for the Jeep to have an even better road feel with the CAD locked? It could be all in my head, but it feels more solid. Seems to ride and corner better, tranny seems to even shift better. Am I just dreaming this?

Here is a link to explain the engine sensors...and what they do. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm ...and as asked already, did they tell you WHY it failed?

There are only a few things to cause a failed smog on a Renix 4.0L O2 sensor - have you ever changed it? Coolant temp sensor - not the sender, not the switch, the SENSOR on the lower block, under the manifold. Charcoal cannister - usually the tank vent hoses rot out and cause a large leak. NEW gas cap!!! Vacuum lines - easy to check, easy to replace Does anyone have the Renix sensor diagnostic link...mine's at home. Most of this stuff is SUPER easy to fix, no major mechanical knowledge needed. If someone can provide that "lunghd" link you'll likely be able to do it yourself.

Is there a "full-time"slot in your gauge cluster. There is not one in mine. Part time only. Not even a socket for the bulb. There IS a socket and a light panel in my XJ for a FT lamp, although there is only a bulb in the PT spot cuz I have 231. I'm wondering when the Select Trac came along...anyone?

So that's why my Uncle's horse is always so happy :yes: I'd second the ground wire behind the taillight. The FP shares the ground with the tail harness. A loose ground and funky trailer wiring gave me fits when I first got my MJ. I don't know if the same ground is there on my XJ. I didn't even know about the ground back then.

I've had that. Sounds like it needs more fiber!!

I've been washing the engine bay on every vehicle I've ever had with Chemtool, Gunk, Simple Green, 409, Purple Power and the dreaded WATER since I was 16...I'm 60 now (so since 1968) and I'm still doing it. Yes, I am an antique. I've never had one itty bitty problem with "sensitive electronics"...not ever. Just leave the ignition OFF and make sure you don't blast the crap out of the TPS or dizzy etc. and don't submerge anything, you'll be fine. We're still talking about the Jeep, right??

Wax it! 40 yr. old virgin style

I used 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (wet) Testor's Clear Red from the R/C hobby shop (made for plastic), mask off the clear reverse light. Cleaned out the inside of the light with 409, gun cleaning rod and several soft cloths (Time and patience required). Clear coated the whole thing. It does require some patience...I get impatient and antsy to finish a job sometimes and screw it up because I can't wait. The whole process took me 2 days to do everything right to let everything dry and allow time between coats. The orange tint on the reflector sides of the light is not there in "real life". They're nice cherry red...and shiny, new looking. I'll add that they still look new, and this picture is 2+ years old.

There are alot of vacuum problem areas that will negatively affect performance, but that particular one, while it will lead to an inspection or smog fail is unlikely to cause running issues, or an out of control idle. Surprisingly it's usually the small hoses on the driver side (with the exception of the brake booster vac line) that can cause havoc. Like Cruiser mentioned, the IAC, as the name implies OR a larger leak like an intake manifold gasket will give you fits. I found out a long time ago that most people ignore their vac lines until something goes haywire. Since there is so much going on under there run by or affected by vacuum. At the junkyard I've seen some pretty questionable vacuum fixes. From tape,which might look like it fixes the line but denegrates fairly quickly, to multi splicing, to replacement with too soft or the wrong diameter hoses. Vacuum line is cheap insurance. If you have any compromised vac lines...REPLACE them with new hose of the right diameter. Replacing a 1/8" id vac line with 1/2" heater hose thinking that "more is better" screws up the whole system, sucking too much and not leaving any vacuum "volume" for other important lines. This, mind you is all from personal experience, I'm not a mechanic. I'm just an old geezer working on my Jeeps in the back of the house. I don't know the engineering of it all, just what has worked for me and what I see on other questionably "modified" systems.

Sockets...always check the sockets. Grounds...always check the grounds (especially the one hiding behind the drivers side tail light). Trailer wiring...always check the trailer wiring.

Looks like I'm in for some reading...thanks for the reference material. And easy to read for us oldsters.

Now that's the kind of creative I was talking about!!!

I'm assuming since you mention "bug guard" that you mean the lower cowl, air dam, yada yada. Mine has been gone for so long I don't even consider it. Have you tried a box end wrench, or an open end? Can you fit your hand in there? You could remove the "bug guard" and re-install it. I mean if you're dead set on the outer hole (I prefer the wider look also) you might have to get a bit more creative.

3M 77 7 yrs now. Still looks like the day I put it up...and that's on the XJ. I used 77 on the MJ too, 2 yrs. It's tight.

OK, I started my exhaust re-vamp on the 88 MJ. I don't need a monster system, I don't need it to sound "cool". I plan on keeping the cat as is until it stops working, I put in a Flowmaster 40, the cat is good, I fixed all my hangers. I know the manifold is cracked by the collector, which I can weld up...but...it seems all I hear is that the Renix manifolds, crack, or will crack. I will put in a flex portion after I get this all done. So my real question is: Is there an after market Renix header out there that doesn't cost more than my whole truck, OR can I just have an exhaust shop fab up a decent downpipe with the sensor (O2, EGR) bungs. Has anyone modified this section to be smog compliant and still avoid the inevitable exhaust leak??