ParadiseMJ

Mine came on the new hose when I bought it at NAPA...maybe they have it by itself. Hardware store?? I find more stuff I can actually USE at ACE hardware then wandering around a big box home improvement store for a half hour...Just my personal preference

Yeah, like that...when you're smuggling bootleg rum or some kind of powdery substance. But seriously folks, one is for driving lights, the other is for my aux e-fan. Pretty simple.

Use a volt meter to probe the connector for the t-light harness. Blinker on, left, right, brake, headlights. I don't trust "color codes" on my old Jeep, I have to see it working.

The Comanche is designed stock with a slight rake...returning it to that geometry would make a difference.

Don't you have a clock on your radio?? I put a trans temp gauge in that spot but I eliminated the clock because I have one on my radio. I removed the clock altogether and used some plexiglas to mount the gauge. It took a couple tries to get it done but I finally got it.

Seems a tad extreme on plastic I'd vote for the orange stuff or WD-40. I live under some ginormous pine tress which love to drip pitch (sap, very sticky) on my cars. WD-40 works well to get it off. Mineral spirits or Xylol also work pretty good. But then again the Goo Gone does too!!?

There is a tiny 6mm bolt in the very center of the fuse block under the hood on the firewall. It is small, it's recessed, it's a btch to get at. Remove. Four large machine screws (phillips) on the inside, loosen. Pry two halves apart, carefully...inside and outside. Remove machine screws, pull the two halves apart...would be easier with a helper to pull(inside) when you pull (outside).

:???: I'm confused now... Your rear axle. You will never get the money back that you dump into a vehicle repairs...especially the labor. I said "real world value". Not trying to be a jerk...it's just the way it is. I like to think my MJ is "priceless" because it is to me. I love to keep fixing it. What the he** else would I do with my time, take up knitting?? I bought mine for $400...I've put 2-3K into it over 3 years...I've gotten USE out of it...I have no car payment. I'd be hard pressed to get $2000 for it here with zero rust and 70% new parts. Here's mine almost 2 years ago...I have put another $500-$800 into it since then...just in parts...no labor costs. Absolutely. Couldn't have said it better!!

Well, it looks decent. On the high side I'd say $1500...maybe. :crossfingers: Seriously. Not much more than that. On the down side $800 real world value. Going to need some work...and if you're trying to sell it, don't tell potential buyers that you're tired of fixing it. Buyers would have some downward leverage with: 1987 4 banger AX4/5? BA/10? ...but what has me worried the old "hole in a pipe" issue. It may make a big difference WHICH "pipe"?? Nice looking interior :thumbsup: Betty is a lot prettier than my MJ... when I bought him for $400 delivered...we'll call him Floyd, or Jeff...or maybe Shane. ...soooo, you're single right? That's why you named your Jeep "Betty"?

The "rocket" sliders and the straight sliders are the difference, not the brackets Take the brackets off the bench seats with a grinder or drill out the rivets. I found using the grinder MUUUCH faster and easier...and cleaner. Then bolt them on to the new seats. MJ and XJ brackets are identical AT the seat sliders BUT completely different on the floor end due to the topography of the floor They will bolt right up to the sliders same year/era of XJ buckets. Also recommended are seats from a 2 door XJ, because they fold forward. There are several ways to modify the seat bottoms and sliders and brackets to to fit even newer of non Jeep buckets. I used some flat steel stock to span the seat mounts and bolted the brackets to the spans. I used the rockers on my first attempt...I'm not all that tall...just shy of 6'...but with these seats my head was only about an inch from the roof, and I had to crane my neck to even get in to the cab. The 1988 brackets - mounting holes on sliders 6" on center On my 2nd attempt I got some sweet XJ 2 door buckets from a 96. No rockers 1996 seats - mounting holes on sliders 10" on center I just drilled and bolted two pieces of 1/4" x 1" flat stock to the sliders, centered the bracket and bolted the sliders to the BENCH seat brackets, left and right. Now, I have newer clean bucket seats that fold forward and three or more inches of headroom.

I "adjusted" the door on my XJ with a 4" fence post and the latch method. I read it on one of these forums. I rolled the window down, with the door open, stuck the post thru the window and applied some manual torque with the post against the window frame...not too much...just enough to bennnd the top of the door. Don't try to over muscle it. Then I tightened it up at the "bolt looking thing". the catch moves in/out about 3/8-1/2" when it's loose so a bit at a time til it's tight.

I normally go over prepared...not that I'm a boy scout... My wife and I went for a tree after Thanksgiving about 10 miles off the pavement, 50 miles from town. We went alone but left good contacts with our adult kids and neighbor. This is what we took just for an 8 hour trip to the woods: Blankets & a sleeping bag. Gloves & boots Cell phone(s) & charger Food, water, etc. ...and a flask Shovel, axe, jack, chains, tools and a saw for the tree. 30 ft tow strap and rope. My .45 & ammo Some firewood...one of those $3.99 bundles at the gas station. About 4 flashlights. Full tank It all fits in the tool box (MJ) or back seat. (XJ)

These folks have been missing for 4-5 days...they found the man dead...his GF lived. They went wheeling a couple miles into the woods, got stuck. The rest is just sad history. http://www.kcra.com/...r6/-/index.html Here's where they were...just south of Lake Tahoe. http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=off&q=mormon+trail+california&rlz=1W1GGLG_en&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bpcl=39650382&biw=1152&bih=683&wrapid=tlif135480859411810&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wl

There is one for the HO+ models, but Renix models compressors mount differently and so does the A/C delete pulley. You may be able to find one searching at the JY with a tape measure or just google A/C delete pulley, something might pop up.

Which fuse did you replace? 7.5 TRANS in fuse block? or 15 A under dash, PASSENGER side by the TCU?

Here you go Cruiser54 I PM'ed you back. If you have any questions about P'bucket, get back to me. I don't know if I'm much of an instructor. To the OP & other vacuum posters, this is a schematic, your vac lines will be wiggly, not straight & square like this LOL. Just note to and from. Remember the single short little vac line twist tied to the new harness is for the fuel pressure regulator. The CCV hose is a separate part in a separate bag. Everything else goes thru the harness connector...don't break the big RIGID (and brittle) hose for the front of the valve cover. Good Luck.

These are not the greatest photos I just took them for my own reference when dismantling my engine bay...might give you a starting point. Here's the main "harness"...I call it the spaghetti nest for a reason... the smallest line goes from the intake manifold... to the fuel press. regulator. The two "bent" lines are for the EGR and EGR solenoid. The CCV to the back of the VC. Make sure the metered orofice is in place inside the hose...or inside the VC, and make sure it's not kinked. the other end goes into the other forward port on the manifold. goes to... The "source" line for the cruise control, HVAC controls, and vac reservoir come from here...the larger hose on therear of the intake manifold. Lower right in this pic. ...and finally, the MAP sensor line goes from the MAP sensor to the rubber plug on the throttle body. One of the holes on the TB plug is a dummy with a rubber nipple on the TB side that serves as a "keeper" (no pic for that)

The intake sucks the radiant hot air in thru the front of the airbox. The hot air is just there. That's how useless it is. Go to a different smog shop...I have never been dinged for that...mine has been gone for 7-8 years. It's not even present on any years after 1990 AFAIK.

Actually it goes from your exhaust manifold, the aluminum piece, to the front of the air box. It provides (correction: it is SUPPOSED to provide) warm air to the intake when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up, the vac servo on the air box is SUPPOSED to close off, so you get direct cold or as cold as you're going to get. If the servo or the vac line fails you just get hot, hot air. I have no idea what it's called. It might be a good idea in theory but it's a.) such a flimsy hose b.) dependent on a very weak part of the vacuum system that's usually broken or missing anyway. IMHO it's useless since almost every single one I see at the junkyard is either missing or shredded.

Not for me. I started using full synthetic...Mobil 1 10/30....a few years ago on my XJ. All the worries about it revealing leaks did not materialize. I especially like the longer change interval. I usually change filters at ~3-4K (NAPA Gold) and oil at ~6-7K. My internals are squeaky clean. XJ is at 237K, MJ is at 190K I had leaks before, and they needed to be addressed anyway. I'm just a little more vigilant now. When I started building the MJ I just started it off with Mobil 1 10/30 right off the bat. There are no extremely cold temperatures here I can honestly say that I have no visible leaking or seeping anywhere. My wife doesn't even mind when I park the MJ in the garage. The XJ has a few small drips, but I emphasize small. Nothing that ever leaves more than a drip drop from time to time.

Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor The white thing...on the fender. Make sure it's connected. If it is, remove both wires and jumper them with another wire, bypassing the resistor. If it isn't connected...connect it. It reduces voltage after start to lessen FP noise

http://comancheclub.com/topic/36186-has-anyone-elses-back-window-decided-to-fall-out-randomly/

Good catch Don, that's exactly what it looks like. I think I'd look at fixing this before calling it good. I had the rear window of my XJ pop out when I closed the hatch after putting a 30" tire on the stock carrier (inside). Luckily I was able to pop it back in but I don't put that kind of stress on my windows anymore. The pop out apparently wasn't random...it likely popped out from getting pushed out.

Point taken... I've used poly adhesive on fenders and some other things that are still bonded like a weld after years...but windshield adhesive is the right call.

No, there is NO way to do that yourself. I just can't be done. Maybe glue would work?!? Sorry, I'm just in a smart a$$ mood today...of course you can do it yourself. Take it all the way out. Clean out all the old cheapo glue/adhesive/crap. Go buy some GOOD (i.e. not WalMart cheapo stuff) construction adhesive in a biiiig tube. Re-install. That's all the "winshield van" guy would do. No magic in that van.