Airborne Janitor

I know, that's why I posted the part number and the source. The one I got did not fit 100%, but a few seconds with a box cutter fixed that. Forgot the name of the stuff I used on the floors, will get it next time I go to the auto paint store.

Yeah that make sense. She was involved in a front end collision and I bet it pushed the swap bar up/back into the fender. The coolant overflow bottle is from Napa #7304514, I think it's MFGd by Dorman. I made a couple of small brackets out of sheet metal to mount it to the engine firewall. As for the rust proofing, I used spray can POR15 with a long tube attachment that I could fish down into the channels in the floorboard and where the roof meets the rear cab, lots of rust in there. For the floors and roof I used a brush-on rust product which I can't remember the name, very much like POR15, came in a small paint can. I wanted to use brush-on since I wanted to minimize the overspray. There's a PPG autobody paint supply store a few minutes from my place where I got everything. Next time I stop in I'll get the name of the brush-on stuff.

Well it's been a busy two months for sure. I won't provide a detailed update but here's what got done: Idler pulley - bought 3 brand new Gates replacements, each one was out of round from the factory. Napa 409155 did the trick Fan clutch - Hayden 2625 Rear freeze plug - MPE-256BR Exhaust manifold - ATP 101111 Intake manifold - cleaned and reinstalled EGR tube - Mopar P4529680 EGR - swapped in a Mopar junkyard unit O2 sensor - Bosch 12009 Radiator hoses - Gates 21615 & 21821 Starter relay - swapped in a junkyard unit Wiper arms - replaced with 97 arms with J hooks Fuel injectors - Bosch 746 (0280155746) Fuel line o-rings - Napa 730-501 Vacuum harness and CCV - Dorman 46003, 46004 & 46005 Throttle body - cleaned and TPS replaced with a better working junkyard unit Fan belt - Gates K061025 Distributor cap and rotor - Standard FD169T, FD308 Valve cover - had a newer, maybe HO cover that did not accept the round grommets, so replaced with a Renix cover Air box replaced. Had to relocate it about an inch because it was hitting the radiator filler neck. Spark plugs and wires - NGK FR5 7373, Denso 671-6127 Exhaust system replaced: Front pipe - Walker 44320, Tailpipe - Walker 47605, Catalytic converter - Walker 15634, Muffler - Walker 18387, and I welded in a flex pipe into the downpipe Tailgate replaced And of course swapped in the 97 AW4 and NP231. I swapped the wiring harness from the 89 AW4 into the 97 AW4. Although the solenoids are slightly different the harness was plug and play. Hindsight 20/20 I would not have removed the output speed sensor from the transmission, as I broke it on both transmissions upon removal. The OSS can be unplugged from the main transmission harness. Also had to swap the shift levers as the column shift and floor shift levers are different. Swapped over the 89 NSS which happened to be missing a contact, so I rebuilt it. The 89 CPS was also swapped over, and so was the 89 throttle valve/kickdown cable which is slightly shorter than the 97 cable. The mechanical speedo plugged right in and works, and the stock rear driveshaft fit even with the deletion of a previously installed t-case drop. I did replace the transmission line connectors (Dorman 800-714, 800-750) and used the OEM tranny cooler. And replaced the transmission mount. I also rust-proofed the interior and replaced the dash with a junkyard one that was in much better shape. While I had the interior pulled apart I found the source of a passenger side water leak, where the blower motor seal wasn't fully sealing. My 98 XJ leaks in the same spot, you can see the traces of muddy water. I ground down the seam sealer with a dremel, then resealed it with some Right-Stuff silicone that wouldn't interfere with the blower motor seal. And I was finally able to back it out of the shop and drive it to the car wash for a much needed bath. Although she runs and drives she still needs some work. The brakes are abysmal, the alternator roars, the rear axle is full of mud and leaking, the tilt steering is still super loose, and the tires need to be balanced (or replaced). There was coolant dripping from the bellhousing, leading me to believe the rear freeze plug I replaced was leaking, but it seems to have stopped now? Hope to have a new carpet installed and the interior put back together soon. Have a 97 dana30 and brake booster to swap in soon as well.... A poser shot of my Jeep family

If their flywheels are as good as their clutch kits I'd say go for it. I had throwout bearing failure in the AX-15 in my XJ at 40K miles, replaced it with a Luk clutch. That was almost 15 years ago and 140K miles later.

Putting the engine bay back together and could not figure out where this connector goes. It comes out of the big harness on the engine side of the firewall, between the motor and the blower motor. It's near where the AW4 and NSS connectors are. Thanks in advance.

Try rockauto.com, I believe they ship to Mexico. Their parts catalog does show Mexican vehicles, but seems to be missing years 85-92 for Jeep vehicles go figure.

Here's some pics: You can see the cable attached to the needle. Cable and clip hanging under the gauge cluster This is where the clip attaches.

I just swapped a 97 XJ AW4 into my MJ that had a trashed AW4 (1989). Have not tested it yet as I'm still putting the motor back together. Are you saying that the throttle valve cable has to be swapped from tranny-to-tranny? If the only difference is the cable length does it matter? Both my MJ and the donor AW4 XJ are 4x4. Knew about the difference in the shift levers no issue there and I swapped the solenoid wiring harness from the 89 to the 97 AW4.

Try these guys, looks like they custom work too. http://www.azzysdesignworks.com/store/88-96-cherokee-gauges

Did a little homework and found this is Mopar 83503722. Crown also makes a replacement, price around $65+. Will have to see if I can get lucky at the parts yard, I couldn't have broken a cheaper part could I?

In my quest to swap a 97 AW4 into my 89 MJ I was unable to find wiring diagrams that were helpful. Although I found the proper years I found the colors were not matching up, so I decided to swap the wiring harness from the 89 into the 97 AW4. Although the solenoids are a little different everything plugged in like it was meant to. However when I went to remove the rear speed sensor... I didn't realize you could push the sensor out from the output shaft side with a small prybar. Of course I realize this after I break both sensors trying to wiggle them out, I'm an idiot. As far as I can tell this sensor is identical on both my 89 and 97 transmissions. I'm assuming 87-97 sensors are interchangeable. This doesn't appear like it can be repaired, as the plastic "shell" is broken and the solder at the tip of the sensor is broken as well. Does anyone have a lead on one of these? Thanks.

I've used sacrificial bolts threaded into the 3 spots on the hub, then beat the bolts with a mini sledge and that seems to work well. You will mushroom/destroy the heads on the bolts so make sure you're not gonna reuse them.

I just went to walkerexhaust.com and the donut flange was not listed for 2.5L options.

Is there a pigtail for the fan switch it around the airbox wiring harness? Should be a two prong weatherpack connector.

it doesn´t, there´s is a spot where it shoudl be but is not even drilled... Does your 4.0L have the closed cooling system using a radiator with no radiator cap and the coolant reservoir on the passenger firewall, or is it open with a radiator cap on the radiator? My 89 MJ was converted over to the open system before I owned it and the fan switch was removed, only the pigtail was sticking out of the harness near the airbox. I was able to find an aftermarket radiator that has a filler neck/radiator cap and the bung for the fan switch sensor so I can still maintain the fan switch with the upgraded cooling system. Mine had an electric-fan and no AC from the factory also.

So school me on this, for Renix rigs that have the vacuum 4x4 system, is that responsible for turning on the 4x4/part-time light on the dash when the case is engaged? Anyone know what that additional unused connector on the 89 AW4 is for, perhaps the part-time light? Will be studying wiring diagrams tonight.

Latest update, got both transmissions pulled, 97 above and 89 below. They look pretty identical, they even have the same numbers/stampings. The big difference is the output spline count and the wiring. There is this additional connector on the 89 AW4 that was hiding behind the transfercase linkage bracket. Mine was unplugged, perhaps it's always been that way? And of course the harness connectors. The 97 has five wires/pins: And the 89 has seven wires/pins: So I gotta figure out how to splice the 89 wiring into the 97 AW4. Since the 89 had that additional unused plug (2 wires) I'm assuming where the additional 2 pins on the connector are for. As for the transfercase, the 97 which does not have the vacuum connector, but does have the part-time/4x4 light switch and is 23 spline. The 89 which had a mechanical speedo sensor and vacuum operated crap. The vacuum wiring harness completely removed:

Well it's been a busy month. Unfortunately I did not meet my goal of having my MJ mobile, but now I'm shooting for the end of April so fingers crossed. Since the freeze plug went to crap I decided to take the plunge and replace all the junk steel Chinese plugs. Pulled off the manifolds, popped out the old plugs, then flushed about 25 gallons of hose water through the water jacket to flush out all junk and rust. Since the jacket was so contaminated I decided to go ahead and replace all parts of the cooling system. I drove in new brass plugs (MPE-256BR) with the OTC frost plug driver kit and some aviation gasket. These plugs were a total b*@$£ to install. The OTC kit has a nice remover that requires you to drill a hole in each plug, but I still had to use a seal puller to pop them all the way out. The only part of the driver kit that was useful was the actual cup/driver part, the punch/shaft portion proved useless and I had to beat the crap out of them with a mini sledge to get them seated. Was surprised at the difficulty of this job, not looking forward to replacing the rear plug on the block. If the manifolds weren't removed I don't know how anyone could get this job done. Also replaced the water pump (Gates 42004) and inlet tube (Dorman 56398), thermostat (Stant 45358) and housing (4 Seasons 84802), heater hoses (Napa 11038 & 11039), block coolant sensor (Mopar 33002383) which was toast, and knock sensor (Mopar 4886382AA) which was hanging on by a thread. Since there was a lot of room to work with the manifolds removed I decided to install some Brown Dog motor mounts and an IRO steering box spacer. Picked up a new open-style radiator from Performance Radiator that has the electric fan bung, and the fan switch (Duralast SW594) fit perfectly. Pulled apart the heater box and cleaned out 20 years of dirt and dust. Installed a new heater core (ProSource 98732) with a factory seal (Mopar 56001322). When I ordered the heater core seal from moparpartsgiant.com I noticed they had the passenger side drip rail molding (Mopar 55015915) in stock. Since mine was missing I decided to replace it. Now just need a driver side. I stripped quite a few parts from the wrecked 97 XJ, and swapped over the hood, cowl, and door seals/weather stripping. Next step is to swap the transmission and transfer case! Oh, and I almost forget the most important mod, a new shifter handle for the column shift (Dorman 76935)

Might seem stupid to some but I'm basically doing a factory reset on this motor and want to get it back to stock as possible for the mean time. I figure AMC engineers put that rats nest of vacuum cables in for a reason. Also everything is currently capped off in ghetto-fab fashion and my policy is to do it right the first time and not have to worry about it again.

Thanks for the reply. I went through all 30+ pages of that thread a month ago believe it or not, but it didn't answer my specific questions regarding the 97 wire splicing and swapping into a column shift rig. After your post I inspected the levers on both transmissions and you are indeed correct, thanks for the heads up, could have easily over looked that.

As the title states, just found out the 4.0L in my 89 MJ was built in 91 and has a 7120 head on it. However, it has all the Renix era intake/exhaust manifolds, valve cover, throttle body, ignition, wiring, etc. The emissions were gutted from this truck, it had an EGR delete plate and vacuum lines removed or capped off. So of course assuming I had an 89 I have been gathering parts for an 89, including plans to reinstall the vacuum harness and EGR and an ATP exhaust manifold. Does a Renix intake/exhaust manifold mate up the an HO head properly? I checked the Renix gasket and everything lines up as far as I can tell. Considering my situation, what advice would you give me going forward? My goal is to keep the motor mostly stock and set up how it was from the factory, with the exception of 746 injectors. Should I just put the Renix manifolds back on and call it a day, or am I better off swapping over HO components. I already have purchased a ton of parts and I don't want to buy new stuff, but I want this done RIGHT. Thanks.

Going to be replacing the busted AW4 in my 89 MJ. I have a complete engine/tranny/t-case from a 97 XJ. I am NOT swapping motors, just the transmission and case. I know I need to keep the 97 throttle valve cable, 89 NSS and TCM. I am also aware of the tailshaft differences and swapping the mechanical speedo in place of the electronic speedo. From what I gather I will have to splice wires since the connectors are different on both the transmissions. Does anyone have any additional info regarding this or the appropriate wiring diagrams? I am assuming I can just swap over the torque converter from the 97? My MJ is a column shift, I'm assuming the transmission shift cable/bracket should just bolt right up to the 97 AW4? I should keep the 89 CPS and flexplate correct? Also are there any issues pulling out the vacuum lines for the old case/front axle since I won't need them anymore? Finally, I will be replacing the seal between the t-case and tranny, are there any other serviceable items I should consider replacing as well while everything is apart? I will be replacing the filter/screen on the tranny. Thanks.

The later stuff should have the bigger u-joints, Spicer 297X or 760X. Your 87 would have the 260x joints. And also the vacuum-disco vs one piece axleshafts on the LJ.

Sounds like your tranny has taken a dump. I'm in that situation now, my 89 doesn't have reverse and half the forward gears don't work either. As I began to tear down my rig I noticed the transmission cooler (in front of the radiator) lines were completely crimped from a previous collision and wondered if that led to the tranny overheating and causing the current issues. The solenoids in the tranny pan don't control reverse so if you have issues in reverse gear its probably a mechanical issue in the case. Anyways, if you've never pulled a transmission before it helps if you have someone who has. It's not a super difficult job, but it's not as easy as changing your oil and can be time consuming. For a direct transmission swap you'll want to find an 87-90 AW4. If you get a 91+ with 23 splines then it will not mate up to your stock transfercase, but you can swap the 23 spline transfercase along with the donor tranny if its available. Here's a thread with lots of info on the AW4. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

Whoa, I stumped the master! I thought it was weird when I was trying to find OEM part #s and combing ebay and Mopar parts sites and getting all different types of interchange years and compatibility. Off topic Eagle but I remember you from early NAXJA and even XJ Forum prior to that. I was a 16 year old kid with a 92 XJ and big dreams. Was pleasantly surprised to see your profile active here.