Airborne Janitor

Thanks. I guess the big question I should ask is will this work on my 89? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Water-Pump-MOPAR-V9900083-fits-97-01-Jeep-Cherokee-4-0L-L6-/272137399106?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275 https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/Dodge__/PUMP-PACKAGE-Water/6823802/V9900083.html I see these are remanufactured but Mopar...?

Got an 89 MJ 4.0L Renix. I'm getting mixed information regarding the Mopar part #s. I keep seeing "V9900083" but some sources say this is for 97+ 4.0s, others say it will work on 2.5L MJs. I looked up #83503407 (old?) replaced by #4626215? Is there any interchange regarding 87-90, 91-96, 97-01? Thanks.

I've always had good luck with Napa stuff *knock on wood. Advance Auto, not so much. Seems like quality brands like Moog and Raybestos have been going down hill over the years. There's a Federated Auto Parts here that seems to sell decent parts. Honestly though I've been using eBay a lot more lately, even for aftermarket parts. Lots of guys are beating local prices and offering free shipping. car-part.com is my favorite junkyard search engine, have used them numerous times over the years for OEM stuff. I also recently placed an order with moparpartsgiant.com for a heater core seal #56001322 for $16, and the passenger side drip rail molding #55015914 for $25. Love getting unopened NOS parts!

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-83502745-Fuel-Repair/dp/B00B8X56RA These won't work?

I started considering it (I have a long bed so it wouldn't work for me) and I just checked the listing and its been deleted. Hope someone is gonna put it to good use...

Bought it, thanks!

Lowered to $50!

BTT

You're making more work for yourself. The cut you want is easily done with a dremel, sawzall, hell I bet you could use tin snips if you wanted, versus trying to make the fenders work/look good with the 94 header panel. There are also brackets that mate the fenders to the header panel and they are different from the 97+ style so you'll have to figure out how to make those work, not to mention have the brackets themselves.

Are you using Redline MT-90 in your AX-15? Have you heard about the issues regarding GL4 vs GL5 and eating the synchros?

You can reuse your rear axle but you will need a new rear driveshaft to attach to your swapped in transfercase.

Looking for the tube that goes from the EGR to the exhaust manifold. This is for an 89 MJ 4.0L.

Are there junkyards in Spain or surrounding countries where you can source euro MJ tail lights? They did sell MJs in Europe right?

A lot of 4.0L motors are susceptible to blowby, and there's a lot of info out there on how to combat it. Not a big deal. As you said yourself the "knock" may be a bigger issue. If you can get the 87 MJ running well I would just swap your front suspension over from your 91 XJ. As far as differences, the big one is the motor. Although they're both 4.0L they have different systems. 87-90 is often referred to as Renix 4.0L, and 91+ are High Output. When you pop the hood you'll see many similarities, but also many differences. Renix motors have a different electrical system and there is no PDC, just a starter relay with many systems plugged into it. Manifolds are different and emissions are somewhat different. Renix motors have a lot more vacuum lines to manage throughout the motor. You'll find the aftermarket is greater for HO motors than Renix motors. Some feel the Renix motors have more torque and reach higher ranges at lower RPMs. Computers are different as well, it's completely different system. Front axle will be different, the 87 MJ will have a 2-piece disconnect passenger axle shaft that is vacuum controlled and the HO years do not. I believe HO years use an electronic speedometer and Renix and prior have mechanical speedo cables. I know there's more I'm sure others will chime in.

February recap: Started tearing apart the wrecked 97 XJ. Donor parts include: fenders, passenger door, D30 front axle, seat belts, electric fan, AW4 transmission & NP231 case, brake booster and pedal, and lots of wiring. I have no intention of doing the full 97+ interior swap since I'm not swapping the motor, and I want to keep the 89 dash, column shift & bench seat, but will be swapping to the 97+ doors/panels as well wiring the power locks, window, mirrors, and hopefully keyless entry. I started with the door swap, but ran into issues with the 89 hinges after unbolting the door. They were starting to come loose from the A-pillar support panel and the holes for the 1/4" roll pins had wallowed out and the door was loosey goosey. First thing was to remove the hinge/roll/spring pins which was no easy task. I used a sawzall and wedged the blade into between the gaps of the hinges to cut them out. Welded two small 3G beads to reinforce the hinges. Then I drilled out the 1/4" holes to 5/16" and installed 5/16" roll pins from Grainger, a decent c-clamp and grease help here. Then I bolted the 97 door on. Having a friend helps a lot in regards to getting the proper alignment. Also having the fenders off helps because you can tighten/loosen the torx hinge bolt with the door closed. Once I was satisfied with the position I tightened the hinge bolts then tackled the striker. The 97+ striker is different but can work with some stock modification. I ended up having to enlarge and elongate the top hole so that it could be used with the stock nut strip inside the B-pillar. I found the proper size metric bolt in my box of misc hardware. I ground the head down approx 50% so it wouldn't interfere with the door when it was closed. Once I was satisfied with the position of the closed engaged door, I ground down paint and plug welded the bottom hole of the striker. Other small modifications were to enlarge the oval hole in the kick panel to fit the 97 door wiring through with the stock grommet. Also switched over the antenna grommet from the 89 since the hole is a different size on the 97. Swapped over the fenders and then began working on the headlamp wiring. Here's a diagram I drew up that proved helpful. Soldered all the connections together. Then installed an H4 harness I picked up off of eBay for $15. Turned on the headlight switch and tested the turn signals, hazards, hi and low beams, everything works great! Now my tip for anyone wanting to swap fenders and doors: have a friend for the door, and don't tighten down any of the torx bolts until everything is lined up and you're happy with it! It took hours of micro adjustments to get everything lined up to where I was satisfied, and it's still not 100%. Patience is key. I also did the full gauge cluster swap, which I have a writeup for here. Last project of the month: swapped over the 97 electric fan, which is a direct drop in other than changing the pigtail. Nothing the soldering gun couldn't handle: Here's how she sits now. Will be swapping the 97 hood since the 89 hood has some light damage and there are some gaps which are triggering my OCD! Hope to get her mobile by the end of March....

My buddy reupholsters steering wheels for what it's worth. Here's his website: http://www.grevescustoms.com/

Is the damage to the 91 just sheet metal or is the frame/unibody damaged? My 89 MJ looked like your 91 when I first got it, not a straight piece of sheet metal on it. I've swapped the fenders, header panels, passenger door, and cowl from a 97 XJ and I'm about to do the hood. The problem I ran into is that my MJ was involved in a collision so the front section of the "frame" is damaged. I haven't fixed all of it but I've definitely made good use of body hammers, dollies, winch, and a BFH. If there's no damage to the frame then essentially you're just swapping body panels, doors, and a bed right? Not that bad of a job with a friend. I'd take a 4.0L over a 2.5 or 2.8 any day. Get a headlamp and a creeper and inspect the frame over the 91, pay close attention to the rocker areas and the front and rear bumper mounting points. Look under the hood for any damage to the inner fenders.

I put those little Infinity tweeter panels in my 98 XJ that didn't have them. I took out the factory tweeters and used the tweeter from my Type-R component set. It was a tight fit, I had to dismantle the tweeter enclosure/grille and basically just hot glued the speaker into the gap. Did this almost 8 years ago and no issues, still sounds great. Something to think about if you ever decide to upgrade, be cognizant of the size of the tweeter and whether it will fit there.

Sorry man! I just moved here from VA, and I'm now constantly finding MJ stuff from my home state...go figure.

https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/6016480046.html

I did a write-up about this swap for a column shift. But there's still relevant info and pics for ya: http://comancheclub.com/topic/52327-renix-gauge-cluster-swap-with-column-shift-write-up-w-lots-of-infopics/

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I am aware that other GM-style levers will work, but all the ones I'm finding are either "S" shaped, or just plain ugly. I'd prefer to stick with a "straight stick", preferably OEM. Here's what mine looks like under the "knob": I'm sure I can chisel off what's left of the plastic knob, so if you have a knob replacement I'll give it a shot if it's in good shape. Either way I'll take a good condition complete unit too.

Looking for one of these:

That AW4 is different from the one in your 89, or what normally comes in an 89 at least, in that it has a different TV cable and the valvebody/internals are actually different in regards to that. It takes a different amount of throw to actuate it. The good news is if you go to the HO throttle body/intake/brackets/throttle cable it works perfectly. Thanks for the heads up! Do you have any info in regards to splicing the connectors? I have wiring diagrams I just haven't sat down to study them yet.

I ended up getting a wrecked 97 XJ auto 4x4 for donor parts for my 89 MJ. 97 is a weird hybrid year that shares parts between the makeover. Has the HP D30 one-piece axles with 297x joints, soundbar and door hinges like (some) pre96 models, and allegedly the AW4 will swap over with some wire splicing (will find out soon). Obviously has the new body style if you want to do the fender/header panel, and/or interior swap. With that said I own a 98 XJ with the AX15 and have for nearly 15 years. 4 trips across the country, almost 190K miles. Heavily modified, beat the piss out of, and its kept on going - with maintenance of course. If the price is right and the parts are decent I wouldn't hesitate.