Green Mesa XJ

Yeah it’s grounding out through the harness back to the turn digital bulb in the cluster. I also found a bad bulb socket, replaced the headlight harness with a newer used one in better shape . What was the part number on the sockets from amazon ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Corroseal is good stuff, I put it on a sub frame I swapped out of a car that was exposed to salt and other winter conditions, did a couple of test spots one is corroseal, one was as knock off of corroseal, and a few others were various other products and methods, 8 months later just sitting in the yard the corroseal treated spots didn’t rust up much if at all, the knock off brand sold at amazon is no where near the quality and rusted away after the first few rain showers. There may be a better products out there, one of the car shows I watch had a small can I didn’t catch the name of they said stank to high heaven but they swore it was the best out there. In my own experience corroseal is the best I’ve found so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

When I saw this it was a warped intake. Had to be machines flat again. But this was a very old car long gone. I haven’t had trouble with Jeep intakes usually the gasket is thick enough to compensate for any slight warping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Pete m is right, 2.5 has different options than the 4.0 transmission. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It was a option for a lot of early years but you’re better off without it. The 91 knuckles if I remember right had bigger brake calipers and rotors, and beefier tie rod ends. The ball joints were the same part number but there was something different about the 84-90 joints, like a cylinder or something later models didn’t need. Sorry it’s been awhile since I looked at the parts, and I’ve never actually done the job on my old xj just the 91 up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I believe it’s 84-90 on the front knuckles. You can use 91 up but have to change a few other parts. The Dana 30 front axel is pretty much the same except for vacuum disconnect the early models had and the late low clearance (?) 2000 or 2001 Cherokee axel I don’t know if you can do anything but buy used 84-90, 91 up there are a few new sources Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Problem with the correct gear is it’s a np207, from what I remember all of the online speedo gear guides are meant for np231 or other more common transfer cases. The only place I found the correct gears was in a old parts catalogue but none of them were available like 15-20 years ago. It’s a very oddball gear to find. Part of the reason I’m upgrading to the np231 is to get a accurate speedometer, that and there’s just a ton of support for the 231 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Let me guess it’s a skinny green gear, the np207 has a reverse cut gm style gear, it’s not like the rest of the Jeep line 87-up. PiTA to find another gear or even the correct one for those tires. If you look at the sticker near the door of maybe in the glovebox or owners manual I think stock tires are 205 75 15 or 195 75 15, you running those 235 75 15 which is close to 30 9.5 15 I used to run on my XJ, and I was only off by 5mph, if you’re off more than this something else is wrong with that speedometer cluster Being as old as it is bad printed circuit (for the tach ) or water (damaging the speedo gears) from a windshield leak might be the culprit. Far as the tachometer if somebody swapped in a cluster out of a 4cyl model you rpm could be off. I thought there was a way to set them from 4cy to 6cyl, but I’ve never done this. Usually the 6cyl jeeps got the upgraded packages with the tachometers. If we assume this cluster is factory and correct for your mj I’d pull the cluster and clean the contacts to see if this helps. Far as the speedometer if you have cruse control I’d look to see if there’s a box the speedometer cable goes through, it’d be around the fire wall, the longer speedometer cable would go from the transfer case to this box then a shorter cable from this box the cluster. At least this is how cruse set up is on some of the older jeeps and other 80s vehicles. If that box is broken on the inside you’re speedometer might be off because of it. At least it was the cause for a vw I had years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Um, yes. I would bolt it up anyway just to not have them lose, without a charge it will not engaged the compressor. There is a pressure switch that will only allow the compressor to run once there is enough pressure from Freon in the system . The other reason I’d bolt it up is to keep the lines and system clean but I guess you could leave it lose but plugged up. As long as the compressor and clutch are there to run the belt it will not matter if the rest of the ac lines are there or not, far as the mj running and driving. I think the late 80s and early 90s mj xj have valves on the compressor for charging the system, I am not sure if you can close off the compressor from atmosphere/open lines with those valves or not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’ve looked at a lot of options for my 1985 XJ much delayed 30 year rebuild project. The original hydraulic clutch design is ok but not great, as I’ll be updating the transmission to ax15 I decided to look in to all the options for running the line and what were the best slave and master combinations. The best solution for external slave cylinder, which I wanted to keep (84-86 had external slave cylinders), was 1994-96 master and slave set up. Comes from morpar all connected (line from master to slave) with fluid, get mopar if you can because all of the after market is junk even names you’d think would be good are using the same Chinese source as everybody else. 1997 up is different, as I remember it the firewall mounting and pedal placement are wrong with out a lot of fabrication to make it work. Which sucks because there are a lot of NOS clutch master and slave set ups around cheaper than 94-96 sets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Did 96 have air temperature readings? That or coolant temp are my half assed guess at why it’s rich at start up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Could IAC do any of this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Are the temperature readings accurate or seem accurate? If we maybe believe the hardware is not faulty maybe the software is getting something erroneous like temperature and mixing the fuel wrong. Maybe the pcm is failing somewhere. I doubt a worn engine would cause running rich unless it wasn’t firing and if compression were that low it ought to throw a code. Beside I doubt that motor is all that bad off unless it was severely abused. In old HO xjs/MJs I’d suspect O2 sensor, and map. Older cars Mass air flow sensor. On the OBD2 xj I’m not sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Going back to basics, how do we know the injectors are good? Ive seen them fail rarely and not bad enough to trigger codes on newer cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Hum. How bad is gas mileage? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

1996 is a odd ball year, a lot of one off parts like fuel pump and sender. I forget what the pressure is supposed to be on those From what you’ve troubled shooter already my gut instinct is map sensor and fuel pressure regulator , leaking injectors 222k on a 4.0 is nothing to worry about, although before a lot of what you’ve done I’d check compression. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

1986-1990 is essentially the same sender signal and plugs. Now the 2.8 does not have the wiring for fuel pump however the plug case is still three terminal just the 2.8 lacks the power for the fuel pump. 91 up Jeep’s the ohms for full and empty are reversed, so empty read like full and so on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Look at the back of the assembly that will be a better indicator of where it can come apart. I have a commander headlight as a spare somewhere but can’t remember how it goes together. I was more worried about breaking g a tab. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Should be a long shaft. I found some on eBay. I think it’s a common Chrysler gear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sorry I can’t see what year your MJ is. If it’s 87-90 I believe it a long shaft gear. I think it switches to short in the 91-92 years and electronic speedometers. But you might be able to use either if the cable reaches the gear correctly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yep AX-5. It’s essentially a Toyota light truck transmission. So is the ax-15 but the ax-15 is stout enough to take a lot more power. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That’s got to be a later AX15(bigger diameter input shaft) my 1990 ax15 (smaller input shaft) has 53005385 as the part #. Edit That part number is 1994-6 production. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

1984-85 v6 5 speed 4x4 had 3.73. Not sure if it continued in to 1986 when Chrysler started to become a factor. I think it may have been 3.55 in 1986 for the v6, and 4.10 for the 4cyl Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That’s why the brake lights are not working, probably. Hazards should power up, maybe try swapping the round relay things to see if it starts working. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro