Dzimm

What is the issue you are having? A vacuum leak? Where is the leak at?

The required stuff: - head gasket - head bolts - intake/exhaust gasket - valve cover gasket The recommended stuff: - freeze plugs - oil filter adapter orings - serpentine belt/coolant hoses/vacuum lines if they need it - spark plugs - cap/rotor/wires - fuel injector o-rings (required if one tears) Stuff you could do but really isn't necessary: - have the head checked for cracks - rebuild the head I would also recommend to get engine degreaser and lots of rags to do a good cleaning on everything.

Like can't see the picture?

That's good it's home. Yeah AutoZone doesn't have Mopar CPS so if you can hear the fuel pump running and have pressure at the rail, go ahead and run the test on the CPS, it may not show up bad in the test but it's still suspect. Mopar CPS are anywhere from $80-$100 but well worth it, I've had multiple parts store CPS fail on me as have many others.

What cps did you use? If it was not a Mopar unit, I will almost guarantee that's the issue.

Wrap it around the axle and go slow. If you have turns to make, keep an eye on it, make sure it's not slipping around. Can also wrap it around the bumper but you have to be very careful not to yank on it.

Your stock proportioning valve should be just fine, why are you looking to remove it? I certainly wouldn't recommend using an adjustable unless you know what you are doing, could be very dangerous.

I will certainly check over the suspension again. Good to know about the parts store boxes, I'll look around online for a decent one. Any suggestions on where to go for a good price with good product? I'm not looking for any sort of upgrade as this is just a bone stock xj I use as a winter DD and it's pretty rusty. Want to stay as budget friendly as I can as well.

I believe the steering box in my 95XJ is going bad. I've got a clunking and poping when turning left and a slightly less bad clunk turning right. It's also covered in fresh fluid, doesn't leave a puddle and doesn't appear to be dropping the fluid level much but it's pretty bad underneath. I will double check the trackbar for the clunk but regardless I need to address the steering box. My question, buy new or rebuild? New (reman) they are $100 or more, a rebuild kit is like $20. Has anyone done a rebuild and how rebuildable are they for someone at home? I'm currently daily driving this rig so it would need to be a one day fix.

I agree with this. YouTube has plenty of tutorials on it. I've done it just for fun on padlocks, not hard at all.

Sorry for your loss.. I assume everyone is okay? What happened? I wish people would pay attention, I was very nearly rear-ended by a mustang on my way home today, luckily I pay attention and was able to get out of their way. They almost hit the car that was infront of me they were going so fast.

Yes, in 03 they went to disks. Mine is off an 03 so it's got the disks on it. It's very difficult to find any info on the internet for the Liberty C8.25, all I can ever find is about the XJ one. So far I've found that it's roughly (eyeballed with tape measure on the tires) 3" wider than the D35/XJ C8.25 but that only equates to 1.5" each side. The diff housing itself is much beefier and it has a speed sensor in the diff. I haven't measured for length difference at the pinion yet. I'd also mention that there is only one extra bracket on each side compared to an XJ axle and I'd say it was actually much easier to cut off the spring pads on this than spring perches on the XJ axle. I've seen many people shy away from this swap due to all the brackets but it's only 3 per side and the welds are small. Took me about 2 hours to unbolt all the extra stuff and cut all the brackets off. I'll do a write-up on the Libby swap when I'm done.

Let me expand upon Jeep driver's answer... What is your budget? What is your skill level? What do you have available near you for junkyards? Options: There are multiple companies that sell 3" kits for the MJ with various quality and included parts, most are actually missing a few key things or skimped on some to keep costs down. Some kits are actually pretty complete with decent parts. The big decision to make with kits is an add a leaf or full spring pack. The "better" route as considered by some and what Jeep driver was trying to point you towards is building your own lift from parts you source yourself. This route is a little more advanced and you will need to do research and ask questions to go this route. We will give you more info on this after you answer the questions I asked above. Personally I have had a rough country 3" kit on my XJ and have a 4.5" Rusty's kit on my MJ and they both were good in my opinion. Definitely on the budget end but work for me. Please answer the questions above and we will give you more info.

Thanks for the answers, definitely not worried about harshness/vibrations in a race truck.

Thanks!

So I'm swapping in a C8.25 from a Liberty. They come with this weight thing attached to the axle and hangs off the driver's side that I assume is a counterweight. I also assume it's there because of the coil springs in the Liberty but with leaf springs it won't be necessary. My question is, do I need to leave this on or am I fine to leave it off? It's like 15 pounds so I really don't want it on there.

Got further on the axle than I thought I would today. It's completely torn down aside from the carrier and pinion and I got all the brackets cut off. All extra stuff off The extras that came with it. For sale if anyone sees something they need, from an 03 Liberty. Pulled the brake stuff off, shafts out and seals out. Brackets cut off and currently sits ready for cleanup!

Yeah it's this one. The street MJ website has info on it dating back to 2004. The guy who runs that was contacted a couple years ago from the guy who bought #25 and started the black theme on it. I posted the link to it above.

According to what I gather, it's part of the restomod of the truck, giving it a black theme. Definitely not how they left the dealership.

Got the axle and wheels! They left everything on the axle, which made it extremely heavy so I'll be glad when all that's taken off. I did a rough measurement and it appears the Libby axle is roughly about 3" wider, which is fine because it will bring the wheel base out some. The Libby axle is much beefier in the diff area than the XJ version for sure. Curious if there are any internal differences. The wheels are in good shape, someone sprayed them with black paint and it must have protected them because there is no rust on them to speak of. Can't wait to get started on this again.

Does not run. Wouldn't be to hard to fix that tho

Holy crap. I'd buy them just cause at that price

That's unfortunate. Very much repairable.