cruiser54

THIS^^

Sounds like a faulty TPS, but that can wait also.

Yeah^^. The undersized brown wire issue.......

It only matters where the rotor is at ACTUAL TDC. Forget about what the balancer marks indicate. You can always change the balancer later. It's not critical at all right now.

More importantly right now....where is the rotor pointing?

You must find real TDC. You can use a straw. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=finding+tdc+with+a+straw&atb=v191-1&ia=web

You're losing pressure/prime somehow.

12* is not true TDC. It's possible that your harmonic balancer is failing and the outer ring has moved. From the write-up: Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout “window”. Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

I wonder how they would perform if you temporarily eliminated the intermittent module, or got one from a ZJ.

Not .020" past?

Ever open up the motor and see the "grease" inside? It's like wax. clean it out and put moly grease in it's place.

Okay. Then you cycled the key a few times and started it? If so, how did that work?

confused. Dribble before or after key cycling?

This^^

Coupla hours versus overnight is a lot of time for injectors to leak down.

There are some other factors to consider. One is the fuel system losing it's prime overnight. try this to see if it may play a part. Key On for 10 seconds, key Off, Key On for 10seconds and then to Start.

Yup^^.

Go drive it!!!

Gee, all those guys out there wheeling their Grand Cherokees with the stock steering box.......how do they do it? Who here has converted from XJ to ZJ box and speaks from hands-on experience? Besides me.

Just use a box end wrench if possible. eat your Wheaties for breakfast.....

Never EVER had an issue. I used to strip all the intake manifolds of fittings before scrapping them. They're tight, in a tapered pipe thread, with sealant on them that's been around since Moby Dick was a minnow.....

I'm suspicious of those injectors.

We all know where the sending unit grounds, right? CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 51 COMMENTS The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

ZJ box is just fine off-road also.