cruiser54

You're welcome. Glad to hear it's up and running again.

If you need the arms and bolts for yours, it does require a Torx to remove them from the donor.

In front of the EGR solenoid on the driver's inner fender is a white ceramic resistor about half inch wide by 3 inches long. Wire connected to each end. It's your fuel pump ballast resistor. When the engine is cranking, the fuel pump gets 12 volts directly, When the key returns to Run position, the voltage enters on one side of the ballast resistor and exits it at about 10 volts to the fuel pump. Be sure the connectors are tight. For testing purposes, you can always use a short jumper wire between the two wires on the resistor.

Yes. Do the harness first. You may decide, after seeing the improvement, that less ambitious plans will be needed for great headlights.

Throttle body cleaner is perfectly safe to be spraying around. There was never a good C101 connector.

First off, verify both front and rear turn signal bulbs are flashing with the same intensity. Dashlight indicators for the turn signals, too. The instrument panel ground is overloaded to begin with. Might try this. Can't hurt and will offer some other benefits as well. Improving the Instrument Panel Ground The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple. Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Revised 11-29-2011

Spray some carb cleaner around the rest of the hoses near the throttle body wit it running. Notorious leakers.

Make very sure the ground strap from the head to the firewall is good. I would replace it with a #4AWG cable if it were me. The firewall paint interferes with it's connection also. Remove the 15mm bolt and scrape the paint off under the strap before you do anything else.

Fuel pump relay is not in the fusebox. It's the 3rd one back from the front on the passenger side inner fender.

http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--900 ... D7540.aspx Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.

Probably good to go. Let it set for a while and the air bubbles should go away.

Here's how: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/free-d ... 1-a-38629/

Sent to your email.

Sounds like you're good to go.

I have the diagram but can't post it on this forum. PM me your email address and I'll send it to ya.

Not the first time I've heard that about the pep in the step. As for the brakes, IDK.

Make sure the CCV hoses, especially the one from the rear of the valve cover, is clear and not obstructed/melted etc.

In the name of science and mechanical research, I say we should all touch our ballast resistors after a half hour drive and report the findings back to this thread.

So with the new TPS you have a more frequent high idle along with the rough running it has always had?

That's true...I took a trip up to New Hampshire last September and the moment anyone up there found out I was from New Jersey; it was all just down hill. It didn't help that I'm naturally tanned during the warmer months. It was funny up until you mentioned your keys being locked in after your windows separated from the tracks and fell into the door. :D On a side note; I finished a ground refreshment including several 4g cables. Funny enough, my volt meter went from 13v to 14.5 on the dash. :thumbsup: Now to fix my leaky injectors - again. Amazing what the cable upgrade does for the voltmeter. Headlights and starter like it, too.

Maybe you got a bum replacement TPS? No high idle with the old TPS anymore but a rough idle, correct?

It might. Bypass it as a test.

Ditch the heater valve and install a stat from the dealer 83501426.

To be perfectly honest with you; I even broke out the phillips screwdriver and tightened the interior pieces. No I am not joking on that. :cheers: Amazing, isn't it? I was able to give you a kick in the butt all the way from Prescott, Arizona!! LOL.

You gotta be kidding me!!! You didn't count them? What I was suggesting from the start and got crap for...............