cruiser54

The part number will end in 673 or 675.

Yes. Left and right are as if you are in the driver's seat.

Advance Adapters has the bushing you need. Just stumbled upon that doing additional research for my HO into Renix swap write-up.

Yep. I have a set I'd sell.....

They are in fact different.

Napa used to carry a key hole remover product. You might wander into a store near you and see if they have some on the shelf. Should be right next to the belt stretcher.

Just go to the parts store and get one for your truck with gauge..........

Isn't it Hesco that has the pilot bearings?

Go to the hardware store and buy a handful of fiber washers that fit your drain plug.

Fittings for the CCV system will require some modification.

Modified this one too. Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before. Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, ECU, and some to the TCU, travel this path through the C101 connector. The C101 connector is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time. Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth. If you have a small pick or dental tool, tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter before bolting both halves back together. Revised 07-17-2012

Better? I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix era Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/17/2012

Much. :cheers: I'm not trying to be a tool Cruiser. I'm an old Grounding, Bonding and Shielding guy who worked for many years in military calibration labs all over and have seen the problems caused over time by using non-conductive pastes or grease on metallic electrical connections. very important stuff especially on aircraft. :eek: The electrical cleaning and grounding procedures you detail are excellent. Unfortunately preventive maintenance like this is seldom done on a vehicle until a problem occurs. I for one thank you for taking the time to develop these procedures and posting them up. Keep pounding them in mate. :thumbsup: Should I just remove the dielectric from the write-up? I know you're not being a tool BTW!!

Here you go. Better? I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals, and adding dielectric grease around the perimeter of the connector to seal moisture out, before plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then dielectric grease should be added before plugging them back in. I do this on every Renix era Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/17/2012

I like the Autopals myself. Not as good as Hella, but not bad either.

It did. 87-91 and 92+ are different. Changed the same time as the tip of the input shaft. Somebody's gotta have one that will work.

I don't see where the pilot bushing can possibly be an issue. The hole in the rear of the crank never changed to my knowledge.

Nope. Only headlights. If you want brighter tail and park/brake lamps, use 2357 bulbs. 2357A for fronts. 795s for reverse lights.

Leave it on.

I love happy endings.....

+1 on both points.

If you have to ask, you're probably not qualified. No offense meant. Does your AC cycle on and off quite frequently? Why not check the easy stuff first and check the blend air door?

Check to see if the heater blend air door is closely completely when the temp knob is moved from hot to cold. You can observe from under the passenger side dash while moving the knob. You'll see it has a stop on the housing under there.

I use 90/100s only because I had them laying around. I didn't see which wattage bulbs the Hellas came with.

I think the improvement of wiring would depend on the current condition of your electrical system. On my personal vehicle i can take a stock bulb and plug it in the harness and cannot tell the difference if it's connected directly to the battery with 10 ga wire. I think it is possible for an improvement, but unless the switch is $#!& or the wiring and plug-ins are corroded I'd bet it's more a placebo effect. I do however plan to wire my headlights over to relays, just to reduce the amount of current being drawn through my fuse panel. Plus i think it will look nicer to have 5 or six relays next to each other in a line on the truck. High, Low, fogs, bar lights, front locker rear locker. Granted fogs, bar lights and e-lockers are a ways away in my plans and may never materialize. It really has nothing to do with the condition of the harness. You would see improvement even if you added the harness to a new XJ that rolled off the assembly line. It's the DESIGN of the harness and the use of undersized wire added to the poor design that's the problem. I've done 3 of the upgraded harnesses and only decided to go with H4s and Autopals on my personal driver because the improvement was so great on the other two Jeeps with just the harness. A very good point you bring up is the added bonus of not taxing the said undersized and underengineered wiring by using the harness. You know that the only time that circuit breaker in the haedlight switch is gonna trip, or the harness plug at the switch is gonna melt is when it's dark out.