cruiser54

The best fix is to always use a new washer on the plug. Sometimes the threads on the plug get messed up. The cool thing about the AW4 is that the pan is tough and the plug is weak.

Well, two of you have the diagram. Who wants to clean it up and post it?

I did. Hard to explain but here goes. Disregarding the 4 small bolts that go into the timing cover. 2nd and 3rd ones back on the passenger side are studs. 1st and 2nd ones back on driver's side are studs. I have a handmade diagram if anyone who is a computer geek wants me to scan it to via email and convert it into a nice computer type file.....

NGK all the way.

OK. Good. After re-reading the thread, I would suggest just adding the 2 ground cables in my write up also if that fits your budget. Did you remove and clean the IAC? EGR is a possibility but it should be receiving no vacuum on a cold start. That application of vacuum is controlled by the ECU. What if you had a dirty connection at the plug to the IAT or CTS? Ever done this? I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/23/2012

All of them?

Part of the nit picken is to help him fix it. He needs to know how to find a draw. We KNOW he's only got a click!

You are correct. Hence, Post #5.

5 quarts of Rotella with one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Wix or Napa Gold filter. Monitor the progress by checking the oil's appearance on the dipstick. Check how quickly it's cleaning up by by shining a light through the oil filler hole.

off running the battery down is called a "draw", not a short. Easy to find.

Intake manifold bolts loosened up?

At a MINIMUM do the refreshing.

MAP sensor on the firewall? If so, how is the vacuum going to it?

NO! Just refresh the grounds.

Do the whole refreshing cutting no corners. Just skip the added cables to save money.

Renix Ground Refreshing The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily. The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely. A suggestion regarding the braided cable: I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely. 　 　 If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price. 　 Revised 03-04-2013

Unmetered air enters the system. O2 sensor thinks it's lean mixture, increase the pulse width of the injectors to richen the mixture. Low manifold vacuum read by the MAP sensor tells the eCU the engine is under a load and it needs more fuel, so The ECU adds it. Have you done the complete ground refreshing per my instructions?

Have you cleaned your throttle body? Did you do the sensor ground test included in the TPS instructions? Have you ever checked your intake manifold bolts for looseness?

Anybody ever screwed with the throttle butterfly stop? Intake manifold bolts tight?

It's controlled by the eCU. Disconnect the vacuum source to it temporarily and see if the symptoms go away.

Like the intake manifold bolts...............

I am not saying that. I was thinking the OP was confused as to what was eGR and what was CCV type lines.

Good ole Commifornia. Left there 35 years ago. No regrets.

Now that's a hell of a good suggestion.