cruiser54

LH drill bit.

Nah. I live in Arizona and bypass the heater control valves all the time. The blend air door is what switches the heat in reality.

Ditch the valve. Plug the tube.

www.cruiser54.com. Complete Tips 1 through 5 before doing anything else.

What is your goal here? Moving the gauge sender from the back of the head to the thermostat housing?

I'm not so sure that's the HCV. HCV is mounted further forward and higher. Follow the pinkish plastic vacuum line.

It's actually 3 oil changes. Factory recommended interval for normal duty was 7500 miles.

Factory recommended interval is every 22,500 miles and worked fine.

You should consider removing the driver's side taillamp and refreshing the ground wire/screw connection as a matter of course. To further improve that ground circuit, which is also for your fuel pump, do this: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 54 COMMENTS EDIT The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

Got pics?

No.

Plugs, wires, cap and rotor replaced together at 30,000 mile intervals. Have you completed Tips 1,3,4 and 5 on my website?

Shouldn't need a rebuild from a fire.

I've used the Napa radiators for years with no issues.

Got a Napa nearby?

I'm working horribly long hours now and the website is being contrary, but I will get this done. Pete

THIS^^

Wait, what do you mean by won't hold pressure?

Phone dial wheels. I'd snag a set of 4 if I were you.

What a great fix!! and clearly easy. Would you mind if I added it to my website?

Might click the link and see if there are more videos you'd like to use. Pete https://www.youtube.com/@UncleJessetheJeep

Put it in there.

Ever seen this?

Easily tested. And check the wire routing. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 131 COMMENTS Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing.

Different fuel injection system after 1990. Yours is the best Renix ECU.