cruiser54

R*C*B*R*C.. Refresh Connections Before Replacing Components. Nice job.

I just searched youtube and came up with nothing...........

For next time, as suggested in post 14: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 01-26-2013

Please describe how you reset a disposable timer. We're all ears.

No answers after my tips? Are you kidding me? Check with some of the folks on these forums. Why do I get "thank you" PMs almost daily because I stuck with them? I'm not positive? I'm positive I don't want folks taking poor advice and spending their time and money chasing down yours, or anyone else's rabbit trail. I don't help people? Your "outside the box" thinking is extremely distracting not only to the folks seeking help, but to those of us who have to go back in and straighten things out after you've "shotgunned" multiple posts with mostly nonsense. I'm thinking "out of the box" is just another excuse for irresponsible posting. If you call this "taking care not shooting from the hip", you're saying 2 things. One is that you have been shooting from the hip until recently. Since when? When I called you on it? And two, what if I hadn't done that? Would it have continued? I made a noted effort to say in my previous posts that not ALL of your info or advice was bad. Go re-read that. Now you're the victim....... I care about these people. I don't want them to waste time and money, and I don't wanna waste my time or anyone else's cleaning up after your "out of the box" suggestions. You've admitted that you were "kidding" when I challenged you, or that you had some other issue like dyslexia or the like and sometimes got stuff backwards. Holy crap, man. How is that my fault? If you truly have issues regarding dyslexia or other maladies, please try using some extra effort before posting. Who is leaving because I challenged you? Anyone out there? Post up. I wanna know. Are you thinking I am paid for what I do, and you're not? ....Sheesh. I took some time off and thought about my reply before coming back. When I said I was kidding, I was only half kidding because it was entirely doable but the cost of parts varies everywhere in this country. Not everyone has a pull-a-part in their area where they can get a whole motor in unknown condition for $100. You do things by the book, which is the right thing to do unless it doesn't work. The OP posted that he did what you said to do and refreshed all grounds, etc and still it's not even trying to start. I waited for you to offer him another solution. Nothing from you was posted so I offered the next step and you attacked me. Sets a nice example, doesn't it? His last post on the board: " 10 March 2014 - 02:08 AM There's no spark. I've tested the new one and it's putting off .5. Could it w the computer I'm stuck any ideas?" Most people who leave don't bother saying why. They just go. I care about these people too or I wouldn't be coming here to give free advice. Never said you got paid to do it. There are different types of repair people out there. Parts shotgunners, who load the parts gun with everything they can/can't afford and pull the trigger. Then they get upset if it doesn't work. By the book: Follow the steps and if that doesn't fix it, do it again and again until it does work. If that doesn't cure it, you must've done something wrong. Previous experience. "I had one that did that and this is what worked for me". I had one old guy with a '55 Dodge with flathead that was 6 volt. When it wouldn't start, he would turn on the headlights for 3 minutes, then it would. Turned out he flooded the carb so sitting cleared it out and the headlights on warmed up the battery post so the moisture between it and the clamp dried up and it started. There are different ways of approaching a problem but in the end the cure is still going to be the cure. My question is why are you so angry? Cuz I'm tired of going through multiple bull$#!& posts of yours and correcting them every time you come on here and throw out some crap into numerous threads!! Did you read the post I made? It's like you swoop in, $#!& in numerous posts, and I and others have to clean it up before someone steps in it.

Really? 15 horsepower? Then why is a 90 Renix 182 horsepower and a 91 HO 190? 8 HP difference total, all at the upper revs. HO had a better exhaust manifold and a 58 mm throttle body versus the Renix 52mm body. That was a good portion of the 8 frickin horsepower!!! You wonder why I' get angry with you? It's because I spend my valuable time correcting your shoot from the hip bull$#!&.

I'm guessing the wiper motor is loose. Remove the linkage/motor/pivots as an assembly and LocTite the bolts into the motor and check the bushings at the pivots.

I'm guilty of that myself. TLC in the morning and TMB in the evening.......... Haha that great! Know what those 2 acronyms mean????????????

Because in the mixing and matching of masters and boosters they don't always match. And no, it wouldn't go all the way to the floor but would be slow in applying.

Ever read this all the way at the end? http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf

Yup!!!

What is that stuff, Jim? I live in Arizona and have never seen it before. You mean to say there's worse than that?

The stock throttle body opening in the HO manifold is 62mm. So you can bore out the factory "dogleg" straight through the throttle body for a free-flowing intake. Same for the Renix TB except to a 60mm bore? Yessir!

Cody reported back last evening on changing his TCU from the standard 87 model to an 89 model I had from a parts Jeep. Better shift points with less lugging and definitely noticeable. I knew they changed the TCU after 87 due to customer complaints, and 88 and later seem to work great. My wife's 88 shifts like my 90.

It you're looking into the valve cover from the grommet/fitting side, they slope down.

Actually I don't have one. I have an air powered version.

I'm guilty of that myself. TLC in the morning and TMB in the evening..........

Nah. That sounds like when you use a 4.0 head on a 258....... If not, I've screwed up on a fair number of HO head to Renix block swaps.

Use the Renix intake gasket. Got a Dremel?

Look at it this way. Your exhaust manifold is gonna need replacement anyway. Use an early HO manifold to replace it. Along with that, your headpipe is probably rusty and it has a factory "crush" in it disguised as clearance for the front driveshaft.. Have a muffler shop make the headpipe for you and swoop it so it's away from the driveshaft and has no crush along with welding in an O2 sensor bung for you. Your CPS is gonna take a dump on you anyway. Get a PC307 high altitude CPS from RockAuto. A true 60mm throttle body can be had for about $100 from www.strokedjeep.com. Stock was 52mm and the opening in the intake is 60mm anyway. BTW, the HO has a 58mm throttle body. 89 and 90 ECUs are cheap and easy to find at this point. I just don't see where the big expense is when upgrading a Renix's power.

Yeah. Some guys are picking up junkyard ECUs for $20.

I'm a bit leary of that. The 428 was the superceded one. I would want one that IS a 428 for sure.

Looking forward to your report back.

Yep. Don't worry about bypassing it. Your MJ will just keep hummin along around your coffee farm........

Where did you get one of Jim's college photos?