cruiser54

One with a bung for your fan switch.

Kinda sorta. search "junkyard stroker"

Not Cruiser, but the stock metering block (MJ) or proportioning valve (XJ) serves a second function: It's also the actuator for the brake failure warning light. If you eliminate it, you won't have any brake warning system. The way the proportioning function works in the XJ/ZJ version, the forward part of the valve is the part that feeds the rear brake circuit. That plug you see on the front (or nose) of the block has a rubber gasket inside, and there's a brass plunger that has a sliding shank that seals against this gasket. Then there's a heavy spring, and behind the spring there's a flange and a rubber cup seal. At rest, the cup seal blocks brake fluid from going to the rear brakes, so under light braking the fronts do ALL the work. Under severe braking, the hydraulic pressure finally gets high enough to seal the cup in the bore and force the piston forward against the spring. This opens the port to the rear brakes and allows them to do some work. And that's why I don't like the system. There's no danger of spinning out under light braking. Under heavy braking, a lot of weight transfers onto the front wheels, making it harder for them to skid, and OFF the rear wheels, making it easier for them to skid. So what the XJ proportioning valve actually does is not allow the rear brakes to work EXCEPT for the conditions when you really need to limit the braking force to the rear wheels. The other problem with it is that, since the piston only moves under heavy braking (did I mention that the spring is STRONG?), if you drive sanely and never get to panic stop pressures in the system, the cup seal may not move for years. The crud in the brake fluid builds up around it and locks it in place. At that point, you have NO rear brakes -- ever. My '88 XJ hasn't had rear brakes for three or four years. I tested it in snow -- rolling at about 10 or 15 MPH, I opened the door to watch the rear wheels (in a deserted parking lot) and slammed on the brakes. The fronts locked up and skidded. The rears just kept rolling. I think when I get Old faithful back on the road I'll just pull the spring out of the proportioning valve and leave it so I always have rear brakes. I can deal with that. So the MJ block is just a T with a warning light plug for pressure? I do understand that the XJ and ZJ blocks actually proportion the brakes but the MJ does not correct? No. Eagle has explained that already. It's actually more complex than an XJ prop valve.

They're common as belly buttons. Try the HELP section at your local parts store.

Napa is made by Wix. Napa has them as Silver, Gold, and Platinum. They're designed for different oil change intervals. Silver-about every 3000 miles Gold-7500 miles Platinum-Synthetic oil and extended intervals You can buy the Silver ones really cheap!!

A man receives a text from his neighbor: "I am so sorry Bob. I've been riddled with guilt and I have to confess. I have been helping myself to your wife, day and night when you're not around. In fact, I have probably been getting more than you. I do not get it at home -but that's no excuse. I can no longer live with the guilt and I hope you will accept my sincerest apology with my promise that it won't, ever happen again.” The man, anguished and betrayed, went directly into his bedroom, grabbed his gun, and without a word, shot his wife dead. A few moments later, a second text came in, "Bloody Autospell !! Sorry Bob, the second sentence should refer to "your Wifi’."

Too bad you're so far away. http://prescott.craigslist.org/pts/4792392872.html

Crankshaft and rods.

I'm not exactly sure how that valve works. I eliminated it. I run from the rear of the master cylinder to the front brake lines and from the front of the master to the rear brake line, with an adjustable prop valve in that line.

Get the engine to #1 TDC. The rotor needs to have it's trailing edge about .020" past the #1 dizzy cap terminal. Here's why. The CPS tells the ICM when to fire. If the rotor is too far away from the dizzy cap terminal when it fires, the spark has a hell of a jump to make, resulting in poor running.

Index the distributor then. Tip 12, then 13.

Randy has a point. Use a Wix or Napa filter. Change oil. I love Rotella T3. Use a quart of MMO with it and do a change after 1500 miles or so. When you start up and have the lifter tick, shut the engine off for half a minute and then restart. Is the tick gone?

On the MJ, I have no block and an adjustable prop valve to the rears. Load sensing valve is gone. Just put my front braided brake lines on but haven't driven it.

I just swapped the "guts" from a 94 to 98 Grand Cherokee prop valve into my XJ prop valve. Works great, and easy.

You need to begin with Tip 1 and continue to 5. Don't skip around.

1 quart of MMO in place of a quart of oil and you'll be fine. What oil are you currently using and what brand oil filter?

Check this out from the FSM This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures. Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..

Try a 703-1396 cap from Napa.

What cap do you have on the bottle?

You're a District Attorney? They should be kissing your @$$.

Some shops may have one though.

Not the case. Keep on trucking.

Because it alternates power and ground?

I don't think so. It's an individual decision. BUT, the Snap-On "Brick" AKA MT2500 will hook up if they have the adapters.

Bring it over to my house. I have one.