cruiser54

Who said Cummins was being discontinued in the bigger trucks? The vM is going into 1/2 ton trucks and Grand Cherokees. See what Gale Banks thinks of them. I didn't say it was being discontinued. I said they're not getting the NEW Cummins and they're losing exclusive use of it since Nissan is getting the new one in the Titans. I can slap a nice header on a piece of $#!&, it's still going to be a piece of $#!&. You shoulda heard all the negativism about the XJ from the Jeep purists when it came out.....

Who said Cummins was being discontinued in the bigger trucks? The vM is going into 1/2 ton trucks and Grand Cherokees. See what Gale Banks thinks of them.

You must have posted that same old drivel 472 times now..................... :shake: Yep. Accurate info deserves good distribution and dissemination.

And BTW, VM engines are not pieces of crap.

HO myth buster Renix in 90 made 182 HP. HO in 91 made 190 HP. That's 8 HP difference. HO only made more HP than Renix at higher RPMs and not a bit more torque. HO had 58 mm throttle body versus a 52 mm throttle body on a Renix and also had a better design header. See where I'm going with this? The whole 8HP was not mostly from the head, but from the bigger TB and better exhaust manifold. Put a 60mm TB from www.strokedjeep.com on your present head, eliminate the "crush" in your headpipe with proper re-routing, and go for it. HO stands for Highly Overrated. __________________

I'll take a chance and read sarcasm into the "thanks for the help" since you dismissed my comment. I did not piss $3000 down the drain on my own 2.5 before gathering as much information as I can about the 2.5 over the last couple of years. Very few of us put any time, effort, money, into the 2.5, as a result, there is scarce information and performance parts. Most guys will tell you that the 2.5 is a 4.0 with the middle two cylinders removed, not true, the 2.5 came first and the 4.0 was designed after and out of the 2.5, look it up. Besides the obvious differences, the 2.5 and 4.0 share many of the same parts- water pump, oil pump, water necks, timing cover, timing set, head bolts, push rods, valves, lifters, springs, pistons, rods............etc........ On the later MPI 2.5s, it shared much of the same....injectors, throttle body, sensors such as CPS and TPS........etc...... If raising the compression to 10:1 were the answer to the 4.0 performance, then every MJ and XJ owner here would be off to the races. There are several Stroker guys here and many more elsewhere, balancing performance and reliability seems to the common issue among them. I have yet to see anyone successfully supercharge or turbo charge a 2.5 and brag about their success. Apparently a few 4.0 guys have but I have yet to read anything about reliability as a daily driver....bear in mind that you will be in the $6000 neighborhood going supercharged. The most common failure of the 4.0 is head gasket failure, just based on what I have read over over the last 3 years, ads for XJs and MJs for sale....common thread........head gasket, maybe 80% or more. The biggest hurdle you will experience is electrical, getting a Renix 2.5 or 4.0 to run well...electrical, and you need to go through every bit of it. Money and TIME, hope you got both. The greatest hurdle you will have to 2.5 performance.....air flow.........>NOT compression. You have entered the world of Jeep, and you've got a lot to learn yet. Actually, the 4.0 DID come first in development but not in production. I know this for a fact as I was told how it was done by a friend at JeepTech who was involved in the development of both engines.

Grounds "look" okay? Nah. Refresh them unless you can SEE electricity flowing.

Tip 14 been done?

Me, too!! Along with a dual diaphragm booster and master.

Reading doesn't accomplish as much as doing them. Do Tips 1 through 5 and report back.

Click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1,3,4, and 5. TPS adjustment is Tip 8. Throttle body cleaning is Tip 11.

Stop by my house and pick up an EGR tube end for it.

Easy. Napa has the o-ring and "nut" as a kit.

After checking the level and lubing the linkage, do this: Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine. "To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF. 4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L". TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON. Revised 11/20/2014

LMC truck sells the same harness. And, there's this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-H4-HEADLIGHT-BLACK-BOOSTER-WIRE-HARNESS-K0TG-/201205671223?hash=item2ed8cae537&vxp=mtr

It's not the ECU. Your CPS signal is low. Can't for sure remember if the 86s had the C101 connector, so click on my link below and view Tips 2 and 27.

Glad to see you're here!! Like this? Renix Ground Refreshing The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily. The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4” socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely. A suggestion regarding the braided cable: I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18” long with a 3/8” lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10” long with 3/8” terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely. If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price. Revised 03-04-2013 And this? I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/23/2012

Woohoo!. cool stuff right there.

Injectors a rip-off.

Complete part number is 0-280-155-746.. How are you trying to contact Programbo?

I'm wondering if you've got an injector issue. Like clogged ones.

Usually when you disconnect those wires, it floods. I'm wondering if your ECU connectors are in need of attention at the plug.

Bad solder joint when eliminating the C101?

Good to know.

Have you done Tip 5?