cruiser54

Click on this: http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

The new Grands have the VM though, right?

Wow!!! I'm curious about how you used the feeler gauge. Perhaps we could glean a real-life spec for the throttle body out of this?

Nope. It's Italian. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VM_Motori

Yup. And besides, 2000 and 2001s are ticking time bombs with heads prone to cracking.

Hold it at 2000 steady and let the gauge stabilize. That reading should be the same as it was at idle. Let the throttle snap shut and observe the gauge. Your idle isn't all that bad. What happened to ST fuel trims as you turned the air bleed?

At idle, is the needle on the vacuum gauge steady?

Okay. Slow down. Vacuum gauge test. BG44K in the fuel tank. Original injectors? I don't remember.

Refer to post 7 for how to VERIFY what the problem is.

Has nothing to do with Renix versus HO. Another boring and oft-repeated ditty from me. WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier. And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..

99 to 2004 WJ is the best conversion.

Have you eliminated the C101 yet?

It's almost out......

A test with a vacuum gauge will determine if you have a valve issue or an injector issue along with bad valve seals.

Back the bleed screw out a bit.

LT (Long Term) fuel trim is learned over time. ST (Short Term) is what's happening NOW. 128 is middle ground. If fuel trim is above 128, the computer is adding fuel to compensate for a lean condition. If it is below 128, the computer is subtracting fuel to compensate for a rich condition. MAP and manifold are fine. Set the TPS correctly and see what happens to those numbers.

Watched it. TPS should be at 17% and set using the flat connector. O2 switches a bit slow. Intake temp is about right. Remember it protrudes into a hot manifold. You could take it out and clean the tip..... If you rev it to 2000 RPM, you should see the knock sensor start reading some numbers.

Can't open it.

Got a vacuum gauge?

Your O2 sensor should be switching every couple of seconds or less from .1 to 4.9.

Jim, are you doing alright?

You've got about all you need.

Could be. My mistake.