cruiser54

My buddy can make them out of 26 gauge stainless steel. They would be a shim going between the EGR and the intake manifold. No gasket would be used.

#4 pink wire latch feed

I'm taking an EGR valve and gasket to a guy with a plasma cutter soon. I'm thinking a block off PLATE for use when removing the EGR valve and a thin piece for use if you wanna keep the EGR valve but have a thin block off "shim" in between 2 gaskets.

Cavity 4. Yellow wire to ignition switch.

Tips 1,3,4, and 5 right off the bat. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are due every 30,000 miles.

It needs to be refreshed on both ends per the Tip

True that!!

No. But the ground refreshing and connector refreshing need done ASAP

Thanks Jeff.

Pressure is likely not the issue. Clutch clearance is the most likely culprit. And it may not be an issue now!! drive it.

Except if the OEM coils were made by Marelli.....VERY failure prone.

Go to Napa and they have a "book/binder" with actual samples. You'll find what you need.

Have you completed tips 1 thru 5?

good luck with that.....

Have you visited my website?

ebay has no sellers that I see. Midwest Jeep has what I guess is exactly what we need, although a little pricey.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Clevite-MAHLE/695/G31178/10002/-1

Well, some Japanese and GM valves are the same pattern. The price on this one is outrageous. Datsun used to have one but it's discontinued. https://blockoffplates.com/collections/egr-block-off-plates-chevy-buick-olds-pontiac/products/egr-5006-egr-delete-block-off-kit-acura-honda-nisan-datsun-usa

I appreciate that, but I think there may be a GM or other make that works and can be bought online. I need verification.

With the high failure rate of EGR valves and the resulting issues, coupled with poor availability of new parts, there are a couple of things I want to address. We need to find a commercially available bolt on EGR block off plate. Not everyone can make one. We need to find the same block off PLUGS for the EGR tube at both the intake manifold and intake manifold. I have spare tubes but no intake and exhaust manifolds to work off of. Help please?

Aren't there shims that can be removed to tighten the clearance between the outer and inner clutch surfaces? Heck, I'd try spraying brake cleaner between the two and see if a bunch of old clutch material washes out first.

Okay. Then you only have the flat 3-wire connector in use? It's okay if you have a TPS from an auto trans vehicle. You just don't use the square 4-wire pigtail. But, you must take your readings from the flat 3-wire connector.

bypass the fuel pump resistor on the driver fender well.