cruiser54

Okay, but what about hooking up the gauge when it is cold, read it. Turn the key to On and read it. Start the engine and read it. Shut the engine off and monitor it for an hour?

I have to crank my engine for at least 5-10 seconds ( sometimes more than once) every time the engine is cold. I've done all of Cruisers tips, replaced the coolant temp sensor with a brand new Mopar one, tried several junk yard IAT sensors and not a single one has been able to fix my problem. Once my engine gets even the slightest bit warm it'll start right up :???: That is also the sign of a failing fuel pump or regulator. I've tried priming the heck out of the system many times to build pressure to diagnose the regulator and injectors without success, still does exactly the same thing. Are you checking the pressure with a gauge?

I have to crank my engine for at least 5-10 seconds ( sometimes more than once) every time the engine is cold. I've done all of Cruisers tips, replaced the coolant temp sensor with a brand new Mopar one, tried several junk yard IAT sensors and not a single one has been able to fix my problem. Once my engine gets even the slightest bit warm it'll start right up :???: That is also the sign of a failing fuel pump or regulator. Or leaking injectors when the engine is off.

So, is my diagnosis correct then, that the slave itself is leaking internal to the tranny? if so, where does it actually leak from, there aren't any fittings on that part as I recall? It has moving parts/seals.

http://cruiser54.com/?p=65

Time to put a set of 4 holers in it.

Replacement parts are hit and miss these days with most of them being made outside our country.

So, your CPS is hardwired, right? It would be nice to test it's output. Sometimes they are on the tipping point of generating enough AC voltage for the eCU to see. Hence, intermittent at low cranking speeds versus engine running speeds. http://cruiser54.com/?p=50

Yes, it is mine. It's real solid.

It's already off.

Kinda the same thing I thought. The buckets were scabbed in there. a bench seat needing reupholstery is in the bed. Has a sliding window also...

Next time it does it, unplug the CPS and plug it back in. You have cleaned the C101 I presume. Have you checked the CPS output yet?

If it only has 25,000 miles on it, I would be more likely to think of rubber tips on needle and seats being disintegrated or clogged air passages than the carb linkage being out of adjustment.

Grandma's multiple carbed vehicles always ran great when float levels were verified and then synchronized with a UniSyn. Many times float levels were found to be off......

Even so, Rochesters are not exempt from sunken/saturated floats, bad needle and seats. Best to set a good baseline.

You obviously never worked on SUs and Webers.

Kyle, which of my Tips have you completed?

You're making progress. How old are the plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Ever replaced the oxygen sensor or snugged up your intake manifold bolts? It's NOT a timing issue. s Sure, it would be a good idea to index the distributor, but not a high priority at this point.

You can adjust the idle mistures but the main and acceleration circuits should only be affected by float level. After that, the Unisyn is the best tool.

What would you ask for this 88 2wd shortbed? Rust free. Nice body. 4.0 with auto and AC. Needs the bench seat fixed. Matching tires. 189K original miles referenced on the Arizona title.

Sounds to me that you need a UniSyn . Gotta make sure all 4 carbs are in sync both at idle and a bit above. I've never needed anything more to tune multiple carbs.

Nice upgrade.

Interesting......

This^^^. And this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=249

Thanks!!! This?